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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 17, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Luke,
What Mighty said!
Most of us "older climbers" revere jogill as the "Master of Rock".
They say we commoners are to avoid staring at royalty or behaving in an unseemly manner in their presence.
Nuff said.
PB
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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steve:
I'm not sure the NEB of H. is harder than the SS. Donini ought to have an opinion since he led both of them, back to back a few summers ago. Yikes!
Few think that. I've soloed the NEB many times (roping up for a couple pitches) without much stress but I wouldn't dream of trying that on SS.
Duece:
Karl--that Washington Column route is a hidden gem, no?
I love long easy/moderate routes like that. I'd hardly call it clean but I dig it. Never done it with a rope and sort of suspect that would put more hassle in it but I might still get there cause I think I'm done soloing it. The last bit is routefinding nightmare as you find yourself at the base of 5 cracks that all look harder than 5.7 but figure one of them must be 5.7. Second time I went there I cursed myself for not remembering which one I did the first time.
When I went up there the second time, I looked up to see if the slings I left hanging from a brass nut were still in the middle of the face where I jumped from, inaccessible by any climbing. I wonder if the nut just fell out or if somebody rapped past it on their way back on route.
I've soloed Royal Arches countless times and learned to downclimb it, making it a great lazy man's workout. 10 minute approach and descent for 30 pitches of stone play. One time I followed a nighttime Arches Solo with an Onsight of the South Face of North Dome, which was more than the 5.7 I bargained for. Combining North Dome with the Column Direct would be a stimulating day of beauty and the beast.
Peace
Karl
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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I've been climbing for most of my life and yet you could probably randomly take anybody off of the street and that person would be closer in climbing ability to me than I will ever be to John Gill. You don't have to be an ace climber to free solo.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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John Gill? I think that is the guy that introduced me to Jack Reacher and wrecked all my free time for weeks.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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I thought he was a country musician?!
Thanks supertopo!
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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I'm really enjoying these soloing stories. And I wanted to say the same kind of thing about Mr. John Gill. It's really lucky to have his voice on here, it's great to have his insights. It seems like his wisdom always strikes a chord with me and my own personal climbing life.
Because of his influence, I have taken up training on a horizontal ladder in a park near where I live!
Keep the stories coming!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Kind of reminds me of this one.
Do you know who I am?
Death Star Canteen
http://youtu.be/Sv5iEK-IEzw
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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jogill, modest fellow that he is, might well say that Oscar Eckenstein was the father of bouldering.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 17, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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The line between bouldering and free soloing arises when you can no longer afford to fall.
There's a fair amount of bouldering that equals soloing
peace
Karl
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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Kid Comer ... heh he he
that's a big compliment Luke
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Defintiely recommend Sherman's Stone Crusade for background on American bouldering.
(more book previews at http://www.amazon.com/Stone-Crusade-Historical-Bouldering-American/dp/0930410629);
John Gill, Jim Holloway, Bob Murray are all bouldering legends from the 70's and 80's. It was clearly apparent that the technical difficulty these folks were climbing were way beyond the mainstream, but it always seemed a "separate peace" to the general climbing community. Never met any of these heroes, but sometimes saw their chalk! All we could do was to look at their test-pieces and wonder in awe.
Aside: Coz, I recall the desperation on being committed to that smeary move on my onsight of Dixie Peach, but I can't recall for the life of me the story about the girl scouts--hope no one was traumatised!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
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Scott, Perry and I know Luke, and perhaps you don't. Has it occurred to you that we may be teasing him, and maybe you too?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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I remember growing up and Gill was this kind of whispered legend who "just bouldered," but was more or less the best climber on the planet. He had a great affect on the Colorado crowd, and Boulder is where we all spent our summers after the valley got too hot each summer.
I remember touching the holds of some of the problems, and for that day and age, they looked impossible.
So it is pretty cool that I can now use this stupid internet to actually yack with him or even argue. In person, I would have never have had the balls to go up and say hi.
I'm sure that he never thought of himself that way, but a whole generation of us did. Largo's article in Climbing called "Pumping Sandstone" showed him working or doing all of these unreal problems and Gill's status was sealed. A couple of decades ahead of his time.
I imagine that some of the older climbers in Dresden and the like also had their own versions of him as well.
(I tip my hat to Mr. Gill)
Ain't it cool?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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I thought the Kid's naivete was awesome. And I'm glad he know's who Gill is. Many younger climbers don't.
The Sentinel is one baddass piece of stone, so rad from every angle. Haven't done the SS yet and sure as hell ain't going to onsight it cordless. Props to those who have, onsight or not.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 17, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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A valiant first effort at trolling. You have much to learn, grasshopper.
Really?? Anders surely you are accustomed to the feeling of being hooked by now!!!
HE GOT ALL OF YOU!!!!!!
Brilliant Luke. Just Brilliant. Well played!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Dec 17, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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jogill, modest fellow that he is, might well say that Oscar Eckenstein was the father of bouldering
Yes, Anders, as you know I have enormous respect for Eckenstein. It was a delight to research him for my website!
Some of you may not know, but OE introduced the concept of balance climbing to his companions in the late 1890s, showing them how he could stand in balance on tiny holds on his eponymous steep, slabby boulder in Wales and allow Geoffrey Winthrop Young to pass his hands between those of OE as he lightly touched the rock. Before that time many (British) climbers wore tweed and would press their bodies against the rock for maximum friction on slabs and steep faces.
Thanks, everyone, for the kind comments.
;>)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 17, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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Oscar Eckenstein introduced OE 800 malt liquor to bouldering?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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No! Really! Innocent sweet Luke trolling his elders? I'm going to rat him out to Aislinn, really I am.
And when he asks to borrow my pins for Zorro's, and to belay him for just a few pitches, I'll be ready.
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Leggs
Sport climber
A true CA girl, who landed in the desert...
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Dec 18, 2012 - 08:33am PT
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(this is awesome to read, started on it yesterday evening... took my time... So much history, so many vivid memories being shared.... bump)
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