Reno HH for Brass Nuts and Crimper

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 180 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Should BN bring his lycra?
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 6, 2012 - 10:29am PT
Yikes. The heat sounds good a bit. BN likes the cool better. Well, we will make the most of it. :)

I'll be sure to pack BN's lycra speedo.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Are there still closures on Black Wall? 100+ does knott sound like a good time to be on grouse slab.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Aug 6, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
^^^^^^^^^ Yes, could be a good day to expore the "LABYRINTH" A rarely climbed odyssey that is perfect for a hot day. A completely subteraen adventure that goes up through the bowels, and intestines, of Blackwalls right side. One of the most interesting routes at Donner actually, imo.


LABYRINTH 5.7 A multi-pitch chimney odyssey
Probably the most unique climb, of any grade, at Donner Summit! A casual inspection of this climb might not warrant further inspection. Don’t let this, or the grade, fool you. It is not what you would expect. The quality of the granite inside this thing is as good as it gets. Stop reading here if you want this to be a truly onsight experience.
Climb up a broken 5.3 gully, or the better left slanting crack variation, to a ledge. A block protects the entrance to the chimney. Climb up and over this block and enter this spectacular odyssey. Traverse/tunnel about 40’ into the back of this closed top, parallel sided chimney before attempting to go up. Good pro can be found here in the back of the chimney via a continuous crack in the corner (Light is provided from an intersecting chimney) Proceed up approximately 50’ of strenuous, sustained 5.7 chimneying on smooth, clean, vertical granite. Some large chockstones add a bit of interest. After a pitch of this belay on an interior “ledge” at the base of an intersecting chimney. Stop reading here if you want to be surprised. From this point you have a choice. Either continue 20’ to the back of this intersecting chimney, which intersects with yet another chimney, and continue up the 45’ vertical, 5.6, “shaft”. Or, enter an underground labyrinth of multiple horizontal and vertical passageways that you will certainly never forget. Numerous “light shafts” makes passage without a headlamp possible. Expert climbing skill is not required in this section, but a sense of adventure certainly is. Be sure to check out the “Sarcophagus Room”. Return to the original chimney “shaft” to exit, or find an original way out another way. Rap off the “Rated X” anchors or walk off at the far right side of Black Wall.
[ John Hoffman / Bob Carter / Paul Schimmon / Ken Volz 1972 ]


Looks like the forecast is for mid to upper 80s this weekend in Truckee (Just below Donner Summit)
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 7, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
Since this is the most Important THREAD ON THE TACO......I can't believe I have to look through pages of Jism..When are Crimper and Brass Nuts arriving and are there any secondary options to the 102+ heat? predicted.....besides going to the Meadows? What about Eagle Wall cliff area? Closer to water and .......
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Aug 7, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
We land in Reno Sat am and plan to head to Donner for Sat and Sun and climb in the shade. It will be a bit warmer than desired, but we'll have fun, especially with tour guide Silver at the helm :-) Really looking forward to it! Hoping to meet a bunch of CA tacos at the HHour! Cheers!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Aug 7, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Stoked to meet you guys, hang at Donner (hang being operative term for me lol) and see Silver and Cragman again!

Silver I'll give ya a call later this week for Donner details.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Dang. How did this list update get off my list of things to do? :)

Update:

Silverocker
BrassNockers
Crimpocker
Radicalocker ???
Jebocker
Kovocker
klkocker (ew, that didn't work out too well)
Climbskocker
Ron Andersocker
Cragmocker
Mayshocker
Shlocker
Mark Millocker
Adventurockerous One
ElCapPirocker
Kaitocker

Did I miss anyone?

The fun will be at The Silver Peak.

Looking forward to it. Hey, does the Tioga Resort are (or Tuolumne somewhere) have internet? Or does one have to go down toward Mono Lake. I'd love to leave all my work behind, but may not be able to.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
Sounds like Boulder these days. At least there's a lake there!!!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
Thanks Cragman. Hoping not to have to do that at all, but nice to know where it'd need to be done...
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Aug 8, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
No! What was it? Undelete!

Never delete a funny post!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Oh, I am resisting posting funny stuff too. :) Haha!

c'mon- what Craggy say??? :)
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Aug 8, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
the guy in his 50's punishing another out of shape man in his late 40's

Honestly, I had to stop reading right there...The mental image won't go away!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Hahahaha!

klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 8, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
this is starting to sound less appealing
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 8, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
What I can climb at Donner with "and a pretty woman in her early 30's. ;)
It''s only 103 but shite I wouldn't miss it.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 8, 2012 - 10:31pm PT

BrassKnockers and CrimperOckers gunna miss--they're BAILING, and coming to VOOSHIFEST!!!! (I know for a fact they're carryin' CARP)!!!!
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Aug 9, 2012 - 02:17am PT
NOAA is predicting a high of 84 on Saturday at Donner...
and a high of 80 for Sunday.

That's doable.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 9, 2012 - 11:02am PT
I'm trying to get Shack up there for Saturday. Seth you out there? give me a ring.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 9, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
SteveW, your raw porkchop has been waiting for you. Would you like it served cold or luke warm tonight?

Haha!
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