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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 24, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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Good news: I've got six climbing days in during the last month, all leading at the 5.5-5.6 level, with a touch of 5.8 thrown in.
Great to hear, Rich. I suspect, as Donini mentions, that some of the westerners have no idea what's involved in a Gunks 5.5 -- much less a 5.8.
While I'm still awaiting clearance from my orthopod, I'll use your recovery as an inspiration to get in decent physical shape when I get back on the rock with my homegeezers.
John
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Michelle
Social climber
SH60091
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Aug 24, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Severe arthritis in both hips. I had arthro in march to repair a labral tear and shave off some spurs and thickening. Done pt, lots of therapy pool time and got the ok to climb. Gonna have to hit up the gym soon for some test climbing. Unfortunately, doc says its worse and I'm looking at either a THR or resurfacing if I can get the VA to cover it ( they only cover the THR). I am 39. am I bummed that I can't run? Ya. Am I bummed I can't hardly walk any distance due to.impingement? Ya. Did I earn it all from a lifetime of being an athelete? Ya. Lol, I'm good. What's sad is while I was in BCT there were kids half my age sedentary McDonald's eating sloths who got med discharges for stress fractures.
Get better soon everyone!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 24, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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I'm suffering from Low-T, but since I'm taking large doses of STFUandMANup, I'm feeling better.
Woot!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 25, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Thanks to Jim, John, and Wes for the good wishes.
After seven months and with a good five to go, here's what I've learned about PT:
Do a little bit at a time throughout the day, it seems to work much better than a "session." Forget about sets and reps and weights and just push until it doesn't feel right and then back off. Never force anything and don't try to do better than the day before. Some days are better than others and progress isn't linear.
If range of motion is an issue, than work on stretching the effin' joint every day according to the same formula: stretch or bend until the first hint of pain, back off and hold.
If you are an aging climber and you are rehabbing legs, don't forget to work on balance, which is lost to age in any case. (Try standing on one leg with your eyes closed to see what I mean.) This means doing some body-weight exercises that also require you to balance. I'm fond of "one-legged knee bends," not the "pistols" of the Crossfit crowd, but a far kinder and gentler version in which you bend down on one leg until you can put your palms on the ground and then stand back up. Your knee really isn't all that flexed during these.
If squats are in the program, hang the weight from your waist rather than putting a bar on your shoulders---much safer for your achin' back.
I feel that one of the best things for me has been fast hiking (which is to say fast for me at the time I'm doing it, as opposed to something anyone else would recognize as fast). Moving quickly over rough ground helps with balance and strength. I've found poles indispensable for extra support and for saving me from the effects of tripping. (When the ACL is replaced, nerves that were originally present do not regenerate, so you lose a bit of proprioceptive information about the position of your leg, and tripping is a little more likely until you've trained yourself to compensate.)
I've progressed to jogging uphill (with poles) on these hikes, which is much easier on the knees than level or downhill jogging, which I don't do, at least not yet. Actually, "jogging" is a rather optimistic description of my gait; some might say I'm merely shuffling. In recognition of this sad reality, I've taken to calling it "juffling."
Every now and then a trail runner passes me with a woosh reminiscent of a Ferrari on the Autobahn, but I just poke at 'em with a pole and shout "not so fast sonny boy!" in my best geezerly cackle. This doesn't work very well when I'm being passed by a woman, but unfortunately, it's all I got.
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Michelle
Ice climber
the f*#king peninsula.
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Aug 25, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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I started young in gymnastics then dance then artistic roller skating. Traveling camels are to blame mostly for my left hip. Skating is brutal.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Aug 28, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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I was feeling a bit left out... so, I signed up immediately.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 28, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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geez, pirate - suck it up, why doncha...
jk. sh#t ! that looks...yeah...wtf did you do ? hope it heals fast and strong !
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Aug 28, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Yup, did it a couple of weeks ago, BASE jumping. Just another routine jump but hit a burly bush and had my knee locked, something I rarely do. Surgery tomorrow and YES, I have one of the best surgeons in the area. I'll be back on the rock and flying in the air before we know it. Cheers!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Best of luck on your surgery Pirate.
lars
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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Oh dudddeee. That sucks.
Really sorry to see this.
Heal up fast and well.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Aug 28, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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No ACL Can't say, you are the third person that I know of that doesn't have an ACL? Me being one of them. I still ski one day a year.
My Main problem is arthritic knees.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Its really why I started cycling 10b4me, to help keep the leg muscles as strong as possible, which gave a lot of support to the integrity of the knee, minus the missing parts. It also meant that I didn't abuse the knees as much as other leg loading activities. I got to sit my ass on the saddle and take the load off from gravity induced leg shocks. 20 years after my knee injuries I had it an x-ray and MRI and the docs were amazed I didn't have any osteoarthritis or other inflamed stuff.
The blood clot I am currently enduring is smack dab in that same knee area. The doc's still don't know what caused it, but I think there's some correlation to 8 times I hyper-extended it and the resulting trauma did some kind of venous or vascular damage.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Aug 28, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Pirate, matey, you gotta lotta nerve, there. Show some chutzpah, eh?
Seriously, "shattered" is a strictly medical term, innit?
Kinda like a ratings system for injuries.
Bruised. Broken. Shattered.
Get yer mind on the rock and keep it there, stud!
We're all pulling for your swift recovery. Some are even praying.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Well, I'm outta this joint but not that far from returning. Doctors, don't
get me started.
Seriously, does anybody know a good Santero? The only good one I knew
flew the coop, so to speak, some years ago.
We had to cancel our annual Sierra Death March. What really pisses me off
is the fooking Forest Service won't give us back our Wilderness Permit moolah.
Only the guvmint doesn't have to give you your money back for something
you didn't use, or even open!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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Sullly - That's great news!
Phyl
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Daphne
Trad climber
Black Rock City
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Sep 13, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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I'm in street shoes, back in dance class, back in the climbing gym, have my first trip out to real rock sheduled for next weekend and am still in pain, especially in the early mornings before the foot warms up. So I'm pretty grateful overall. I need a good pt though. And i need to stretch more! Why is that so hard to do? I used to like stretching but now it hurts so much i resist it.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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Glad to hear of all the progress! I'm psyched to be off the IRL, and finally back on actual rock the past few days, thanks to a way fun trip with phylp to the East Side.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Sep 13, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Reilly! Ugh. I'm hovering between both worlds now pretending the injured world doesn't have a grip on me. Get well soon!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 13, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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What really pisses me off
is the fooking Forest Service won't give us back our Wilderness Permit moolah.
Only the guvmint doesn't have to give you your money back for something
you didn't use, or even open!
Yeah!
The wife's busted leg cost me bucks in unused permits also/
No 14'er this year.
X rays tomorrow and she can escape into the back yard all by herself now.
I'm still safe though.
She can't stand on one leg and hit me with her walker yet.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Oct 14, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Damn it!
I've been getting progressively better from all the niddling little things and then a few days ago, loading heavy rocks into my truck, a rock shifted and caught the tip of one of my climbing fingers. Now it's swollen and blue with blood and I had to cancel a climbing trip for this weekend because it hurts too much to put any pressure on it. Oh, it'll get better in a week or so but I'm kicking myself for that moment of inattention.
I think I should be posting this in "First World Problems", it's so stupid and MINOR!
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