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The Alpine
climber
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May 26, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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I had a samurai warrior topo, but can't seem to find it. Ill keep digging. Or just email nettle.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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Luke or anyone who's interested, I can e-mail the Bubbs creek topo to ya! A better question is when are we climbing it? Townsend said it's the best route in the high sierra. And that was 1 or 2 month after angel wings.
Vitaliy, this roof crack looks pretty sick! Did I miss a trip report from you or something? The music totally makes the video!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 27, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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No, hard men don't spray bro. Just kidding. Some of my friends and I made several trips to tokopah domes and put up several routes. Some new for sure, few might of been climbed. But research that we did with the locals seem to show all these are new. Anyway, I didn't want to post about the area before getting this "king line." It sure turned out wild. We did it last weekend. One of those harding slot type pitches (there are 5 pitches total but the one in the vid is the most epic one). And other pitches were amazing too. Last pitch is the best cherry on top imaginable. 5.7 or 8 jug haul on giant knobs that you sling for 60m. No cracks for cams no bolts, till the anchor. Just a perfect line of steep chicken heads. Fantastic climb. Friend that was on a FA did separate reality prior and even though he said its harder, our line is in a much better setting and his favorite pitch of his life. We were happy like kids that robbed a candy store on the hike out.
Ps: will post something about it soon. I think there will be a lot of people psyched to climb it. This thing is hard to beat. Short drive from Socal too.
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Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
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May 28, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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One of my routes made the list. I feel redeemed. "Too Hip" Should be the upper elevation.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Lone Pine Peak, south face, Mountain Devil Dike
California, Sierra Nevada
Climbs And Expeditions
In August, Brad Wilson and Dulcinea Groff established a six-pitch route on the south face of Lone Pine Peak: Mountain Devil Dike (900’, III 5.12d). The route begins on the first two pitches of the Michael Strassman Memorial Route and then climbs four new pitches (5.10–5.12) up a prominent dike on the face. More info at MountainProject.com.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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bumpage
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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That picture of Tyndall upthread shows the route Andy Selters and I did, called the First Pillar of Tyndall 5.10b - a clean, sharp arete with a striking sun/shadow line in the left third of the picture. I don't know of a second ascent. It's in Secors' book. The route goes right up the prow.
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duffer
Trad climber
Sonora, CA
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Dec 14, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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Hoi Polloi asked if anyone had done Silver Cloud on Merriam. I did the FA of that with my friend Bart in July of '94. We started to the left of his line on the photo and it looks like they did the same short rappel to the left a few pitches up. Did you find any evidence of our sling? After that you were on Silver Cloud until the big ledge up high where you went right. We went left to a horizontal crack that took us around the edge of the prow to a beautiful, right facing corner. A long pitch in this ended with a face traverse right to another crack that brought us to the top of the regular North Buttress route. Nine pitches all together (10+) on great rock.
On another note, The Chief posted photos of Granite Park Spire and the route done a few years ago with Bindner, et al. That sure brings back memories. I hiked in there with Charles (Footie) Field in 1973. We climbed the huge chimney system under the gold wall to the big ledge on the left side of the face, clearly visible in the photos. Loose, 5.8 or so. We named it Diarrhea Alley. A vigorous thunderstorm encouraged our escape left, but not before we saw the beautiful cracks and corners leading upward toward the top. I always wanted to get back to what we called Granite Park Tower, but it hasn't happened yet.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 14, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
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is that ^^^^ Edge of Time Arete? maybe Morrison?
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The Alpine
climber
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May 23, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Rock climbing!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 23, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
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What a great thread!!
Wish I could get to even a few of those!
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The Alpine
climber
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Aug 26, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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Anybody manage to tick off some projects on this list?
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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Bump... cause it's summer time! If anyone is keeping track I've been updating the list - mostly with Vitaliy's new routes and added links to all the routes in the original thread.
I hear there are new routes in the works on Bubbs Creek wall and on the Hulk. Anything else happening in the mountains? Spray up folks! Some of us are stuck changing diapers on the weekends and not sleeping enough to think about hard climbing. Need more stoke!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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I think we need to get a list from all of Vitaliy's FA's over the past two years. He's been killing it out there.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 01:23pm PT
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He's rapidly catching up to Croft and Nettle in terms of the number of 5.11 or harder FAs on the list. That's pretty amazing amount of hiking in the last 3-4 years for Vitaliy. I hope his toe nails don't fall off after this summer...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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