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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2006 - 09:21am PT
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Just read your story Brent - Wow, makes all of my one-day adventures in the Black seem like tennis outings. Let's see, I'd have to resort telling a divorce story or two for a real chilling thriller.
I'll bet the esteemed Mr. Coyne has a story or two...
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lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
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Bob D,
Good to hear from you. Pop me an email on lcoyne11@hotmail.com & perhaps we can hook up. When did you and Richard (I assume Aschert) do AstroDog? Recently? That's cool. Where are u living? I've been climbing in the Black this season a bit. Did Trilogy which is really good and well protected except for the first pitch which is just a little scary. Recommended though.
Josh, you were asking about a project (I'm assuming recent psst project, ergo, 827 Go!, which is a free variant to Air City). Your query was a bit vague, could you elaborate?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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So what does TNT mean when he calls the Black
"The Wonder Bread of climbing areas"
in RocknRoad?
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Builds strong bodies 12 ways?
By the way, when I was a tyke it built strong bodies 8 ways.
I never got the answer on that one, I guess more supplements.
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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How about the Moveablestonedvoyage? Is that considered way-homo?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Leonard...glad to hear that all is well and you are in the area. I'll drop you a line via e-mail. Richard and I did Astro-Dog last June.
Richard is doing well (had cancer) and climbing quite well.
I am living in Louisville and do have a fair amount of free time (that could change)right now.
Love to hook-up with you.
Always wanted to do Trilogy but heard it is way runout.
Later, Bob
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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I climbed the Moveable Feast...Good down low, bushy up high. Cool downward traverse.
Im a homo though. Why can't I quit you Black Canyon?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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I climbed the MSV, and I'm pretty straight. I think BobD has as well, although from what I hear the guy will stick his bit into just about anything :)
wink nudge, Bob, ease up
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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The MF is a pretty good route for the first half and then becomes a gully climb through bushes and somewhat loose rock.
The MSO is a much better route with a great climbing on the upper section of the SO to end the route.
Finding the start of the route is somewhat of problem and a number of climbers have gotten lost.
Rob...I have been known to drill a bolt or two on new sport routes.
I think it's a sickness I have and it seems to get worst with age. LOL
Any of you folks climbed at Escalante Canyon near Grand Junction??
Great spot without the Indian Creek madness.
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Its like training wheels for Indian Creek, or college kids that can't round up enuff cams.
Climbs a bit spread out?
Jim Nigro owned that place before I knew my ABC's
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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A Coyne Classic...Goss-Logan. On the runout pitch.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
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After re-reading a couple of my earlier posts, I feel that I have done a bit of a disservice to Leonard. I should have stated what a great help he was to my girlfriend and daughter on that day George and I topped out in the dark. The fact is, I only vaguely remembered what Elizabeth told me about Leonard’s help that night. I didn’t even realize that he had gone to the edge to determine where we were. What I remember most is that Brent the ranger was having a barbecue that night, and that I was expecting and looking forward to seeing Leonard at the barbecue (as well as drinking all the beer that I could get my hands on). As it turns out, I had to drive George that night to the Crawford airport (he had flown in on Friday night). We stopped at the barbecue, but it was pretty much wrapping up, and only Brent and a couple of other guys were left.
BTW, great pic of Goss-Logan, Bob.
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lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
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Greg, no worries mate. I took no umbrage, just didn't want you to think I'd be hitting on your girl while you were down on the Chasm in the dark. We should catch up and do some climbs in the Black either this spring or fall.
Cheers, LC
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Leonard,
I'm being intentionally vague. What I've heard is quite inflamatory, especially for a place like the Black, and also for a climber of your stature.
It does involve the route you've mentioned specifically "variations" invloving other route's.
I believe you know to what I am refering, and I'm not going to say anymore...I was/am trying to give you the opportunity to clear the air...should YOU want to.
...and Brent thanks for the bad ass day the other day, a better partner I'd be hard pressed to find.
josh
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Josh wrote: I believe you know to what I am refering, and I'm not going to say anymore...I was/am trying to give you the opportunity to clear the air...should YOU want to.
...and Brent thanks for the bad ass day the other day, a better partner I'd be hard pressed to find.
josh
I don't think Leonard has to answer to anyone... and of all places on a internet forum.
This is a good thread and I would hate to see it turn into some fecking-RC.Com-flamefest.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2006 - 10:40am PT
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Leonard - I look forward to climbing with you in the Black sometime in the fall. My shoulder should be entirely healed by then (turns out, my last Air Voayage adventure was done with a big tear in my rotator cuff). I'll be coming out a couple of times in the spring just to hang out and hike down into the canyon.
And...what Bob said. Let's keep this all about love for the Black.
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lcoyne
Big Wall climber
Byron Bay, Australia
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Sounds great Greg, fall will work better for me as well. Mate, that OW on AV would certainly take a chronic arm problem and make it acute! My email is lcoyne11@hotmail.com, let's stay in touch and coord. schedule's for the fall (no pun intended).
Josh, if you have question(s)to ask someone, ask. I would have to assume that you are under the impression that I am privy to the uncleared air you refer to you. I am not. In deference to Greg's (and Bob's) request you can email me.
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Yeah, the Black Canyon thread lives ON!!
Flamey, dude thanks for droppin my shizzle by the gym. I got drunk and passed out by a buddies pool the next day...I'm so light duty like that.
Not a bad first date, next time I won't wear the high heels...
B
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Not going to let this thread die so easy. Just got back from guiding in the Colorado Springs area and got together with Jimmy Dunn, his wife Helen and almost one year old baby boy. Jimmy is doing great and seems to be quite happy. Doing a lot mining in AZ and Mexico.
I ask him about his and Earl's ascent of the Cruise. Earl and him when to do the second ascent of this route that was rated 5.10 A5.
They dropped down in the canyon, one rack, one rope, two peanut butter and jelly sandwichs, two quarts of water and a small pack.
They topped out at 3pm with the first free ascent and Jimmy felt like they could have been quicker if they left the pack behind.
Total balls out on a big wall with no real knowledge of the route.
In my humble opinion...one of the greatest feats in US climbing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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dunn is a riot.
he loves that "one water bottle' nothin'but me and my bro and up we go" thing. (so do i...)
the black is really his type of deal.
i always enjoy seeing him and hearing of his latest adventure, mining enterprise or whatever.
manic; yes. admirably enthusiatic, yes.
go jimmy.
(he once described with great glee some way runout bolt placement he managed, all twisted into some harrowing position, tap tapping away with like one hand or something, much like a walt shipley reportage...)
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