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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Bird, you're such a ass.
applying a list of 20 to tahquitz-suicide seems just a bit trivializing.
I know, f*#king MP.com coming over to the Taco making us talk about their lists. I think MP.com is a socialist company!
the richness of climbing's history there rivals yosemite's. dig into that history and find your place in it.
Yeah, I'm gonna find my place in history on this thread. You know, with pics and stories of the FA's, the FFA's, my place in history is pretty much assured (as is yours).
everyone has different talents on the rock and responds differently,
If there were only some more approachable sport climbing in Idyllwild, it would see good climbers come around.
i'd like to see supertopo discussions become just a tad less trivial.
I know, talking about routes that I dream about and looking at pictures of the past, present, and framing myself in a photo of the future is so... unfulfilling and trite.
one way for that to happen would be for important people to lend more weight when important subjects come up
Do you know what it took to get Dr. F in this thread rather than that one ->... The gods wept!
as far as i'm concerned, supertopo is not the place for me to tell everyone how i fit into a trivial list of 20.
Trust me, we all know how you fit.
Murf
LOLZ! That ought to cover it!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 13, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Randy, did you take that pic of Rick with my camera, hmm?
I'll have to check my totals. For quite a few years Hennie and I were working to do all the routes at both rocks. I came close but I know he had a few more than I did. Oh yeah, that was a little before Bobbie Gainse's (sp?) big push to clean up.
Nice Murf!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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LOLZ! That ought to cover it!
F8kkin' A!!
Nice work Murf!!!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Josh,
The Edge is yet another one that is hard to top. I suspect it isn't in the list because it doesn't get done quite enough, remember, that list is algorithm generated (not that it's bad). JL did allude to it with his first post when he mentioned Turbo Flange (or the Edge.) It is certainly in my top 10 at Tahquitz. I couldn't do it enough after the first time I did it. Pretty hard to top the aesthetics of that line and the satisfaction of stepping up to it, all the while marvelling at TS drilling that bolt.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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let's lay it on the line here.
it begins with todd trying to discourage discussion on the joshua tree bolting ethics thread. that thread was worthless without him, and it died a natural death. i myself laid off it, mostly at his behest and henny's. i don't know everyone, i don't know every climb, i don't know all the big secrets. but that thread was begun by the climbing ranger, and i think it deserved to have been taken more seriously. it involved issues i encountered time and again during a busy year of guiding there. todd, as the author of a forthcoming sport climber's guidebook, ought to figure out how to address those issues and not shy away from the difficulties. without todd, all the talk took place in a vacuum. now, for encores, he's starting a pretty light treatment of tahquitz/suicide.
my other gripe is with russ. i don't think we don't need adbots arising within supertopo.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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my other gripe is with russ. i don't think we don't need adbots arising within supertopo.
What has that got to do with this thread? Oh, that's right, you are down on Gordon, and Gordon climbs at Josh and Taquitz. Got it. Maybe you should stick to the Ark on the Moon stuff.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
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Getting back on track...
Conga line on The Vampire, June 18th, 1994
We started up Sahara Terror. Had never done it before. This was a couple of years after someone got creamed by rockfall on the route and bled to death at one of the upper belays. Somewhere near the top of the route, I got off and we ended up finishing on some pretty burly climbing on Magical Mystery Tour, as near as I could ever figure out. June 19th, 1993
Buddy coming up the second pitch on Whodunnit. What a fun route.
One of the very few at Tahq that I've done multiple times. June 14th, 1996
Check this one out... standard apre-climbing beefcake shot in the parking lot at Humber Park.
The gotcha here is the June 1993 shot of Medium Sooze, dead center in the back with the early 90's doo. :-)
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Murf
climber
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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let's lay it on the line here.
Never go against a Bird, when death is on the line!
it begins with todd trying to discourage discussion on the joshua tree bolting ethics thread.
No, it begins with an automated list via MP.com on the best routes of T&S. As an aside, if you want to have an interesting discussion, see this TED discussion about how human "censors" (used to be called editors) have been replaced with algorithms ( Check it!. Oh how I wish I could put you in a bubble!
that thread was worthless without him, blah blah without todd, all the talk took place in a vacuum. now, for encores, he's starting a pretty light treatment of tahquitz-suicide.
Tony, let me tell it to you straight. **F*#k you** Todd doesn't answer to you or anyone about all the ills of all bolting in Josh. You got a complaint about one or some of his routes, do it like I do... to his face. He'll laugh, tell you something attracted him to the face/crack/whatever, and you'll leave feeling like you made a friend.
Regarding that other thread, go to the climber's coffee that occurs every Saturday and ask the climbing ranger what's up. You know, there in the real world with the people who are involved. Someone might take you seriously then.
my other gripe is with russ. i don't think we don't need adbots arising within supertopo.
"adbots"? I must have missed the Fish ads that proliferate this site. I mean, my meager technical skills do ensure I don't see 98% of all ads, but still, even if decloak, I haven't seen Russ advertise any if at all.
If you're talking about Gordofest 2012? Then I have to say again, and with empahsis, f*#k You. Russ is stepping up with a local guy who deserves something back from the community. If you don't like it, don't click on it.
But still, lets assume that you are at heart a climber. Tell me a story Tony; tell me about the first, last, any time at Tahquitz... The time you cursed Vogel for rating The Swallow 5.8, the time you realize so many of the cracks have that extra layback spitter just off the edge, or about the time you realize most of the routes are on a natural watercourse and that sucks in an afternoon rainstorm....
Just anything to drown out the annoying whinging I hear in my head anytime I see your name on the Taco.
-Murf
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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I was just telling Sooze how shy Murf is....
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matisse
climber
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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juniper flats is my vote too:. lizard king dihedral
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matisse
climber
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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^^^^ the gunshots in the background and wrecked cars just kind of add to the ambiance too :)
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Brian
climber
California
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Apr 13, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Random input...
I'll second Josh's praise of Blanketty Blank (I love the first pitch too), the upthread (Murf?) praise of Bat Crack to Crucifix to Field of Dreams (best harder link up), and the praise of Fred (so, so good!).
I'd add Fright Night as a fine climb too.
For the hardmen up above who have not done Angel's Fright: it's a must do. Stellar, stellar easy route.
Artificial or not, this list is getting me all psyched to have a go at either Pisano or the Pirate, the only two on the original list I've not led.
The Edge is super proud. Somewhere on the Taco I've got my praise of that route and those who have onsighted it, written after I finally realized my middle-aged wimpy-ass should toprope it before the lead (and I never went back for the lead). Kudos to all you folks who have stepped up to that one!
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matisse
climber
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Apr 13, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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I really like Juniper Flats..I didn't mean to sound like I didn't. a mini woodson without the bushwacking. agree that it is under-appreciated.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 13, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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How about laps up things. I know I have climbed the Paisano Jam Crack, Frustration, Insomnia, Hernia, Low Pressure, Upside Down Cake, and a couple others more over fifty times each, basically every time I was at the crag, walking by or as a day's end kind of thing. And routes like Valhalla, Rebolting, Ten Karat, Disco Jesus (a fav), Sundance, and others I've done twenty times at least. Even routes like Le Toit and The Flakes and the Bat Crack I have done dozens of times out of boredom. I went there too much in the early to mid 70s. I ended climbing Upside Down Cake so many times (just to get a little jamming in) I'd lead it and downcling it and take the nuts out. That's when you know you've been at an area too much. Richard and I used to go up on the Weeping Wall on a weekday and spent all day up there, climbing all over, looping around and clipping bolts.
But Gaines, who's been up there for like 65 years, must have done the standard slab routes at Suicide well over 100 times apiece.
There were some routes I wish I had done and never did. Like the Sham, Ishi, The Wave, and a few others . . .
JL
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deejay
Trad climber
AV
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Apr 13, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Dr F, isn't that shot of Todd Battey at Wagon Wheel?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 13, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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I'll offer this as a piece of Suicide minuta. It's not much more.
As Dave said, there were some of us who were trying to do all the routes and we were downright motivated toward that end. It was a friendly race and we would routinely combine forces to leverage each others willingness to do the obscure piles. Not to say we weren't still trying to somehow trip or slow down the other guy so he would come in second... hence the targeted route name "The Untickable"... hehe. Eventually I revised and set a personal goal of just climbing every known route at Suicide - TR/aid lines included.
Reached that personal goal the summer of '95. Accept/discredit the following caveats accordingly if that's your thing.
Not all routes/pitches were led. Following/swinging was acceptable. It was more about successfully climbing the pitches without falls/hangs than it was leading every pitch or every route. A small number of lead routes or pitches were TR'd - might have had a hard time leading some of them.
PO was done with aid. I, like a few others, never had the burning drive to go back until I could do it free. Still don't really feel bad about accepting a mixed route as it was only a personal goal anyway.
A lot of good memories were made along the way. I do feel a little silly talking about it but maybe someone will step it up, eliminate having even one aid route, or leading every leadable route, or, well, who knows what.
Kind of pointless and trivial stuff.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 13, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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You need to ask someone like Gaines if you're after the potential leader in numbers combined for both sides. He's continued climbing up there, so by now I would think he'd be hard to top (particularly since he's been up there for like, 65 years - per the Big Man.)
Besides, if I had a number I'd only stand to lose. I already lost my local status at JT by not being over 1000 routes. Whatever number I come up with for Idyllwild would surely end up not making the cut and then I wouldn't be able to say I was ever a local there either. Nothing good can come of it, only bad.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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Six more and I can pass up Dr. F........I know what I have to do this summer.......
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 13, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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I thought I had 100 on Tahquitz, but it's only around 75.
Never kept track on Suicide, but probably not more than 30.
I'll volunteer as belay slave Todd,
You can drag me up a couple of dozen more.
Bring Tucker!
He's only done two!
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