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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 27, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
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Yes, that was the day we watched Lynn fall one inch from the top of EBGB's and go 40-50 feet!
Also, that drilled (I drilled it)hex (#8) was later turned into a pipe and used with a thimble bowl for years. I still have it.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Mar 27, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Sketchy,
From the same archives as the Hunk Guide.
You had great promise in graphic design, man.
I think you dropped the ball by going into law.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 27, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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Bob, that is priceless. I'd completely forgotten about the packaged chalk venture -- another of my hair-brained schemes -- amazing a bag/label has survived.
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Rubidoux Wilson
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Mar 27, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
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Randy,
You're right on photo #1. It's me. 1974
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 07:44pm PT
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Randy said: Note the way we clipped into bolts back then.
What I wanna know is... How come you've got the rope clipped into one of my oval 'biners?! Hunh? (That's my tape on the gate. I can tell from the color. And it's a Bedeyan too.) Give it back!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Mar 27, 2006 - 07:47pm PT
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Gramicci -
Yes, Inner Sanctum has always had all that lichen on it.
Wait. No. That's not right.
Before Tobin skated it all off during the FA, there was even MORE lichen. That whole wall is like that, and the only clean spots are where the heavy traffic is. The far right side of the wall is the unclimbed Garden O' Weedin'.
That Shadow Wall is classic face climbing stuff, though. The peak is a volcanic core, and the rock has all kinds of bubbly holes and stuff in it. You're going up, and suddenly there's a little pocket. They aren't everywhere. The just sorta come out of nowhere to surprise you.
Maybe Tobin tapped into the Volcano Gods and they led him from pocket to pocket to pocket to . . . . . .
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 27, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Dave,
The guy on Insomnia may be Matt. Check the hair...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
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Matt wasn't the only guy with hair like that. Right, Randy?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 27, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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That's Rick A. on Insomnia.
JL
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 27, 2006 - 09:52pm PT
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I know Robs and now I'm thinkin' it was Grippy Rockammazo.
The fellow on the roof was matt though, I'm sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 27, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
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damn, exactly how many people saw lynn take that monster whipper that day? was every climber in soCal watching? me and neil kunomi and guy andrews were walking back from echo cove and stopped to watch her lead it. when she pitched, i remember she fell pretty much to the bottom of the route, almost to the mantle, and then got thrown to the right and swung around the buttress. we were speechless. it was at the time the longest fall i'd ever seen anyone take at josh.
epic. much respect.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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Found another old slide... This Stonemaster photo taken on a different continent:
Taken July, 1977. Rick Accomazzo on our first ascent of Vielle Vogue ("Old Wave") (vielle ecole IV 5.10a), West Face of l'Aiguille de Blaitiere, Pilier Rouge, Chamonix, France.
Swung leads for maybe twenty pitches or so... Wrote the whole route as an FA in the book at the French Alpine Club center in town, only to discover that a later-edition guide to the area gave credit to a French team, five years after the fact. Figures. Rick even wrote a letter of protest; which fell on deaf ears. (Probably since it was written in English!)
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Mar 28, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
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In that there weren't more than 30 of us at Josh back then, I do think everyone watched Lynn pitch off EBGBs. Also it was kind of a step up for her and we all wanted to see her send.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 28, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
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Yes, good call you guys.
Ricky on Insomnia and Matt on the Grit Roof.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 28, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
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Here are a couple more for identification!
Sorry about the fuzziness on the last one, I'm borrowing a scanner soon.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 28, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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One more since Jim Wilson called me last night and reminded me of the time he led The Trough (at Bigrock) without hands and we all followed in the same style!!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2006 - 03:26pm PT
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Dave, the middle picture is of Jim Dutzi. And, which ascent of The Green Arch is that? (If it's the FFA, that photo is freaking historic!) I, too, remember mass ascents of the Trough at Big Rock. Didn't a bunch of us do that no-hands also. Wait... Maybe I got a slide here... (rummage, rummage) Nope. I think I gave that slide to Gramicci... I'm guessing that he's got it stored along with Exhibit R!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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Once again, it's time to move along...
This thread is getting too long, and we'll continue with Stonemaster Stories, Part 8 that can be found here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=173337&f=0&b=0
Please don't post below. Instead, continue posting in Stonemaster Stories, Part 8.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:40am PT
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Best thread ever!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!