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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 27, 2011 - 09:40am PT
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Actually it's in the picture - red is Fuel Rod, and yellow is High Heels: Thanks for clarifying that Greg. I've never climbed "Fuel Rod" (obviously) but tom Carter must have been correct. I used this SuperTopo page to answer tom's question. The picture of "Fuel Rod" in the SuperTopo page makes it look like it's in a different area.
And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :) Thanks Vic! I'd be psyched to see that line get another ascent this year. Trevor and I keep looking around for somebody else who's previously climbed it and so far we haven't found anybody. We're certain it hasn't been climbed this year but I'm curious to know if it forms the same way consistently each year or if it varies. Or, maybe on a "normal year" it's covered in snow? Get in touch if you want some beta and definitely let us know if you guys give it a go! According to Brian (a couple posts above) on the 26th: Ice in the Meadows--both Kurt's line and Drug Dome--is good as of today.
Though it did seem warm by the afternoon, the ice seemed fine--no real dripping or softness. The good news is this climb gets morning sun but by noon-ish it's back in shade. Hopefully it'll stay there until the snow falls!
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JamesG
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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What are these conditions doing to the higher altitude ice, like say Dana Coulior or Mt. Gilbert?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 27, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Friend and I did Third Pillar on 24th of Dec. We saw Dana Couloir. There was no streaks of ice obvious, but on the way out we saw couple of guys who did it and said there was a bit ice in there. I saw some streaks of water ice on North face of Dana itself. Will post pics tonight...
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 27, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
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Yahooo! Thanks Kurt...Im gonna call you in a few minutes...
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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A friend reported a good climb on Drug Dome ice yesterday.
Cheers!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 28, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Please post regarding current conditions on Drug dome if someone climbs it. I am most likely going to attempt it on Friday if the thing is safe enough with this temperature rise...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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a not great picture of Silver Strand from high on Reed's, 12/27/11
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:17am PT
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Hmmm...Silver Strand is looking interesting. Anyone care to share approach beta?
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CF
climber
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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Hiked up there last spring. Parked halfway up to tunnel view, gained the old road and then go up before the major stream that crosses the old road. The stream will take you west of the SS. Steep but not bad.
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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Bad news folks. Things are warming up.
I went up this morning for a second lap on Kurt's new(?) line. Two days made a big difference. I was on it early, well before the sun came around, and it was streaming with water. I was without a partner today, so I soloed up to the big halfway ledge and then walked around left to drop a line and mini-traxion the crux curtain. (Note to self, mini-traxion on a single 8.2 cord feels sketchy, even though it's rated down to 8mm ropes.) I was off the route about the time the sun came around and hit it, and was bouldering over by the Knobs by 9:00am.
Anyhow, the crux curtain was running with water (behind it and on the surface). The climbing was straightforward and no harder, but it would be stubbies in wet, soft ice for pro. There are lots of folks stronger, braver, and more experienced than I, but I have been ice climbing a long time and I would definitely call it absolute no-fall territory in its current condition. I'd trust the stubbies in the thicker, upper section; but in the lower part of the curtain they might hold body weight.
Thanks Kurt for posting about this. I'm up on the Eastside a lot, but I'm no local so I feel super lucky to have gotten two laps on this route.
On another note, there is indeed another sheet of ice west of Medlicott Dome (on the south side of the road). It looks relatively low angle, and from across the valley I couldn't see how thick it is. There is also another column coming out of a chimney uphill from Kurt's line, but it looks pretty sun-baked and I didn't walk up to check it out. If we get another serious cold snap it might be worth a recon.
Not sure how these temps are impacting the Drug Dome route. There was a car parked there when I drove in this morning, so maybe that team will post up.
Brian
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 28, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Yesterday (more pics to come later):
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 28, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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Thanks Bill!
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Brian -- good on ya' for firing up the Stately Pleasure route one more time. Superbum Vic and I checked it out this morning around 10 am and it sounded like a navigable waterway. As we discussed what to do, we watched ice exfoliating from the route. Ah, life on a warming planet.
Instead, we headed for a yellowish flow southeast of Lee Vining Canyon. From a distance it looked like a longish vertical route. If you've looked at it and thought about shwacking over to check it out, well, I'd recommend enjoying it from a distance. It's short, pretty low-angle, and getting wet by early afternoon. That said, it would make a great first-timer's lead or a nice venue to teach ice climbing. The shwack through willows and cliff bands means there will be short lines, as opposed to the routes in LVC right around the corner.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 29, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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big piner, was this you?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 29, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Wedburg, your line looked a little rough in today's morning sun. Did you see it today?
In other news, Drug Dome looked funky to me, but I'm a woose on ice.
But check it, someone in blue doing the raps on the right side...
must have been awesome!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Dec 29, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
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Anyone know where to rent ice skates near Yosemite? Tioga looks cool. I've never skated on a lake before.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
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Me an Macronut are gonna go get frostbite on Snake Dike on New Years Day. Anybody know if we will be able to refill water from the river above Nevada and Vernal? Is it still trickling or is it frozen? I really dont want to carry water for the whole day from the car nor carry a stove. Any beta would be great.
Thanks.
Scott
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micronut
Trad climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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Paul,
Call curry.....or rent them for the rink in Curry and ask if you can pay a late return fee.
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