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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Nov 25, 2013 - 11:10am PT
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No discussion of the Jenny Lake boulders is complete without mention of the typewritten guidebook to them by Gill and Chouinard. It was written as a semi-parody of Ortenburger's Teton Guide--"These are big boulders, they make their own weather", etc, while still accurately describing the classic problems with Gill's B1-3 grading system. It was kept at the Jenny Lake ranger station and shown with great reverance to the generations of climbers who pased through the Tetons---a true devotional relic. Does it still exist?
I was only able to paw unsuccesfully at the starting holds of most of the problems,maybe once in a while doing two-hand ascents of Gill's "no hands" slab routes. I was thrilled when I actually got up one of the actual problems--Cutfinger maybe? When I went there again in the early '90s, I found the problems to be incredibly polished and once again reverted to failing on the starting moves.
Oh Jim, I didn't think that you smoked any of the funny stuff BITD, but I don't recall any female rangers at all--hot or otherwise at Jenny Lake back then.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 26, 2014 - 05:47am PT
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John Gill's "Reflections of a Middel-aged Boulderer" in Mountain 110, 1986.
When do we get "Reflections of a Senior Boulderer"?
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