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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 16, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
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Yeah, I missed it... Just got home and was too busy scanning the life out of Randy's intellectual property. Nice work, Mr. Vogel. And, yeah, that Brain is/was way seriously dangerous.
You guys ought to get a job, or something. Way too much time on your hands!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 16, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
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Incredible find among the archives Rob (notice I deleted the S).
Randy has been publishing for quite a long time!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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Also found while rummaging through the archives...
This detail is from a slide taken on the top of the Captain in September, 1974. We had just toped-out on the Salathé. The route had been blazing hot the first day or two, but got increasingly cool as we got higher. So hot, that we almost bailed from 1,100'! Alan Bartlett, Dominque Thomas and I were suprised (stunned) to be met by two friends that we never expected. And they brought along fresh honeydew melon! Plus, they helped us haul The Pig back down via the Falls Trail! (Walking out in PAs is a thing to be forgotten!)
Pictured, from left to right, Gunnar Swanson, Alan Bartlett, Jim Hoagland, Robs Muir and Dominique Thomas. Of interest here is the image of Hoagland; I think this is the only photo I have of one of the very first Stonemasters.
No one seems to know the whereabouts of Hoagland. Rumor is that he might be working in petroleum exploration in Thailand, Indonesia or summat...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 17, 2006 - 01:13pm PT
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Randy, thanks. I will sleep a little better tonight knowing the Buffalo Chip is intact and that climbing freedom is still on the march (ascent?) at Pirates Cove. “Groundless” was nice.
JL, I needed help to remember Anabelle Overhang and it was one of the “plums”. Someone will have to refresh my memory with Big Ricky; I’m drawing a blank. I am digging through some slides and did find a shot or two of Bachar on Diamond Man, Gramicci on the balancey mantle to top out Anabelle and the less steep, but still challenging Italian Face. Will try to post them.
Mike-That trip to Colorado where you met up with Bachar and JL for bouldering must have been in 1976 or 77? Would have liked to have seen those sessions when the A Team of California bouldering visited Colorado. I remember having Mark Wilford show me around Horsetooth in 1978. I wouldn’t commit to the Left Eliminator move that Bachar is doing in the picture. Maybe I’ll borrow a couple of jumbo 12” pads and give it another look this summer.
Robs, Hope you didn’t damage one of the few remaining Hunk Guides in order to scan it. You get that thing signed by the author and I expect Chessler would pay a small fortune for it, or just laugh at you. Regardless, the text is priceless.
Henny- wasn’t present, but I seem to recall someone else telling me that story about Tobin, Bullwinkle maybe?
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 18, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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Well, I can vouch for the "Chicken's" story about the "harem" I distinctly remember them. Very distinctly! As for the other stonemasters, no recollection. I think Tobin's stunt of pretending to fall of the top messed up my mind and gave me selective memory. Luckily it was for the things most desireable.
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 18, 2006 - 12:30am PT
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Henny, tell us stories behind some of the route names at Suicide i.e. The Great Pretender, Untickable, Someone Your'e Not, etc.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 18, 2006 - 09:26am PT
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Rick, might have been 77 and as more comes back to me it was in the Fall. I remember spending a wild Halloween 21st birthday in boulder. Dave and I were out all night hitting every bar in a big way. Some girl named Christina even married me that night, I think Brashears preformed the ceremony.
Back to Horsetooth, here’s another shot. We even put up a problem or two of our own. Bachar had every Chick Corea album so the music was always in your head. So after one of those songs I called this one “Movement of Heavy Metal” with its super long dyno
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 18, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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Graham - nice shot...I remember that problem - I got some photos of you on it as well (somewhere). cool.
Largo - I just "discovered" Gill's website (via Curt, Gill's bouldering buddy) - very cool. I ripped off this photo from the site (thanks John for posting it!). Remember that day in Lost Canyon? Juggernaut, Penny Ante, new problems...check Gill's hat on the boulder...
Gill photo ( www.johngill.net )
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 18, 2006 - 03:43pm PT
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Dress-whites:
On The Flakes, July 1978. Charles Cole, en belay. And, Gramicci, that might be my butt hanging out too far, but you be the judge.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 18, 2006 - 11:59pm PT
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Largo - check this photo from Gill's site (www.johngill.net - killer site - thanks again John!) ...same day as that other photo above... a really good day. Thanks to you for calling him up and gettng me out there...
"Gee Largo, how are we gonna' find Gill"
"Ho man, we'll just find him in the phone book and call him man"
Largo at 185 lb (maybe 200 lb?) .... cheers, jb
Penny Ante boulder, Gill photo
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:09am PT
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Awesome stuff here mates!!!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:26am PT
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JB- killer shots!
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:32am PT
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Gimme some bass...Watusi! I got a sax line for you...
Good rock, huh?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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Watusi!
Check Your Email, Bra.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:44pm PT
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Gramicci, Largo, Bachar,
So at what point did the StoneMaster lightning bolt show up (and stay) on Big Columbia?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 01:29pm PT
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I put it there right off the bat when we started working on the problem. The name stuck right away - from the Hendrix song 'Midnight Lightning' (oh so frightening...).
Plus we felt like our chances of making it were about the same as a lightning stike happening exactly at midnight (close to zero!)....it all just kinda fit together.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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Hey, JB--
That was a great tour Gill took us on. I especially liked the white hat. Nice touch by a super nice guy.
But I doubt I only weighted 185 back in then. Probably more like 2 bills.
Remember those couple of problems we found while hiking out? We couldn't do them (too tired) but they would have gone with some work. I hear the entire area has been closed down. Bummer. Those were great problems and a fine area.
We sure did a lot of driving back then just to go bouldering. Got by via good jazz and staunch pipeloads.
JL
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
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Yeah, that place is amazing. I remember we were working out pretty hard back then - you were about the buffest I ever remember - I edited the 185lb. by the way...
You had that VW bug that you used to beat the hell out of. We drove up to Gill's house and then went to McDonald's with him for a Big Mac before heading out to the Lost Canyon...can't make up sh#t like that.
He was up here last summer...first time I'd talked to him since that day! He still looks pretty damn strong too....cheers, jb
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 20, 2006 - 11:44am PT
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Damn. Here we are in Part 6, which should probably become Part Seven pretty soon now, and STILL no Exhibit R! Gramicci!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Mar 21, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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Must . . . not . . . let . . . it . . . fall . . . away . . .
Uuuuuhhhhh!
Lifting it back to the top.
Hey the Mussy Neb thread is now into part VII, what's up with that?
Shouldn't this thread soon be into part VII?
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