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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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There's a couple dozen pitches on those Elbow Lakes crags, up to 5.13 something and 3-4 pitches long. Toughest crag in the Valley I think maybe. Includes a stout 12d roof crack. You have to ask Mike Cr*po and know the secret handshake to get any more beta. I've only done a 5.9 and a 10+ thing there, everything else is out of my league (and the 5.9 probably would have been 10b at Squamish)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Thanks horridus and Bruce,I will look for pics now that I have a name.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Is it possible to get to Grainger without an epic approach?
I haven't been in the Chehalis for decades, and never did climb on Grainger.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Trio is probably the best way into Grainger right now. Might be gated at the bottom though - better check with Lakeside.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Trio Creek is the drainage NE of Grainger. Sometimes locked. Lakeside Pacific is the forest contact.
If you drive to the end of that road, you get to here
Summit of Grainger is midway along the ridge crest from left.
Photo by Jordan Peters, used w/ permission
Paul Kubik did a spring ski ascent of Grainger this way a while back.
So, close to the summit, but far from the south face. Possibly better than thrashing up Eagle nowadays, though. I know some people did climb the south ridge via Eagle Creek in 2011 so it cannot be too bad yet.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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Whoo hoo! At last a real Coast Range story. Brings back some fine memories. Like heading down the NE ridge of Rexford with Don Serl after climbing the SE ridge and getting sucked into "70 degree duff and blue berries" toward the bottom on the north side. Hanging on to blueberry bushes while contemplating the even steeper terrain below convinced us the maybe getting back up to the ridgecrest and checking out the other side might be wise.
Or taking some friends in to my old secret spot at the north end of the Illusions and finding the logging road to have "a nice thick canopy of 6 foot high alders which provided pleasant shelter from the pounding midday sun." Boy did that approach suck! Fortunately once we got up to where we were going the midday sun turned into torrential evening rain, and then two days of impenetrable fog.
Thank god I've become too old for that stupid sh#t, and have convinced myself that following Mari up the odd crag route means I'm still a climber.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I told Jesse that morning that Kobus had called the J Crack 5.9 and he seemed to think that was pretty funny. Care to comment Bruce?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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Bruce didn't provide any photos of his typical Coast outing, but here are a couple from the adventure in the Illusions I mentioned. Sorry that I don't have any of the alder-bashing, but there really isn't enough light for photography in that jungle anyway.
First shot shows the tent site my friend Angie and I chose when we got to the end of the approach. Nice flat sandy spot between some boulders. Perfect. We got the tent up while Ed and Al hunted around for something, um... you know... a little higher off the ground. With the tent up, we all trudged uphill into the mist. Which turned to rain. And when we got back, this is what we saw:
We'd tossed the sleeping bags in there before we left, but fortunately they were on top of ensolite pads that floated, and both were surprisingly dry. So we humbly asked Ed and Al if they could scrunch over a bit and make room for us on their semi-sheltered rock ledge.
Here's the scene in the morning.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 15, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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Not A chehalis peak but a Nesakwatch Wall. The Chinese Puzzle. Who has a story to tell about this one? Three? attempts and no successes? Someone must have something to say.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Aug 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Oplo,
That thing looks awesome! I climbed Rexford about 30 years ago and I don't remember seeing that. Is it further up valley than Rexford and Slesse?
What are the roads like in the Nesakwatch these days? Back then they were like crawling up a creek bed covered in down alders.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 16, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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It's directly upslope of the present parking for Rexford.
A chinese puzzle, as I understand it, is one of those things with the little blocks you move around to make a picture. It is in this "mobile blocks" sense that I have always understood the CP Wall is named. Very large mobile blocks. Shame if that's true, it looks good from a far.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Let's bump this thread with a non-Chehalis peak Bruce K should be able to recognize
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Wow, you are a devil. Everyone with an ounce of Scottish blood will get a giant boner looking at that.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Is this behind Cheam?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Taken from Scurlock's plane Jan 08. The ice we climbed is so far left and low it's out of the picture!
The stuff high and left of the summit sometimes comes in super fat and blue but it is hard to predict. Also usually a giant cornice of doom overtop of it then.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Epic thread!!!
Hey, how bout less snow and more Tami butt.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Hey that there Fireball is just left of Standing Wave.
There really was some Bugaboo quality rock on that. So much in fact that it took me 2 hours find enough gear to build a solid belay on one pitch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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45 km of sledding? Good thing Mighty Wanker has deserted Supertopo, or he'd probably have a stroke.
But really, you kids are still just playing in the sandbox. Or snowbox. My longest sled approach was over 200 km. It took two days, and involved serious suffering. And guns.
You ever try to get a snow machine up a frozen waterfall? I mean the vertical kind? It was maybe only fifteen feet, but sleds were heavy back then. And we had food and equipment for 30 days of climbing on the komituks and had to haul that up the falls as well.
And then there's the joy of crossing sea ice in the spring. The ice melts out underneath the snow, and whenever the snow gets soft, the back end of the sled digs in and sends a huge rooster-tail of sub-freezing salty slush cascading onto the poor sod who's hanging onto the komituk for dear life.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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David are those pubes caught in that second scan ?
Pubes? You see pubes in one of those pictures? Are you like one of those fundie women that sees Jesus' face in a piece of toast, except you're doing the porn version?
Pubes? It was twenty-f*#king-below. Farenheit. Not even you would expose your pubes in that kind of weather... Well, unless there was a hot tub involved.
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