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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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I understand about not putting people at risk. I just wonder if anyone thinks about the things like what those people must have felt like if they didn't know if anyone was coming for them. To me it would help me fight a lot harder if I believed someone was coming for me. Especially if I know that they can't get to me overnight, but maybe in the morning. It is a hope thing. People last a lot longer in survival situations if they have hope.
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harihari
Trad climber
Squampton
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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One thing I noticed was that the in-distress party did not visually signal.
FYI for the rest of you all (you probably know this), the universal signal for "help" is dot-dot-dot-DASH DASH DASH dot-dot-dot. Three shorts, three longs, three shorts, be it on whistle or via headlamp. The in distress party should have done that-- we just barely heard "help" but we could see their lights.
My SAr friends say the operative plan is always personal safety first, team safety second, safety of person being rescued last. This because, as somebody above said, heroic (or just not looking around) turns rescuers into rescuees and compounds the problem.
Lambone, if you knew the two climbers (if memory serves they were from Broomville (?) Colorado, or somethign like that) it woudl be cool to hear how they are faring.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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I agree it's weird they yelled for help at all since they were eventually able to make it to the ground ok on their own sometime in the night. Not like they were stranded. who knows...
I don't know em. But yeah it'd be cool to get their side of the story.
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WBraun
climber
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4. "Always knot the bottom of the double strands tied together so
you don't rap off your ropes."
No, don't do that "ALWAYS"
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 10, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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Ditto LOL.
But...since we are hoping on soapboxes...
I don't know about you guys but in my pack on any longer multipitch in Red Rocks, the Valley or wherever is a thin fleece and windbreaker (waterproof if any chane of rain).
Seems prudent. my 2 cents of sage advice.
I get really grumpy on a cold windy belay ledge without layers.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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No, don't do that "ALWAYS"
Agreed.
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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Apr 10, 2011 - 06:04am PT
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Was in RR the same weekend. On Sat, rapping of Triassic Sands wind blew the rope to the side and above the rap anchor. That always tie a knot at the end would have been a very bad idea.
Anybody can comment on the resque on Sat, Apr 2, at Black Velvet parking lot? Heli was hovering around for like 2 hours.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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"Simulrapping ought to be standard." No it should not be. You went on a climb you knew was taken & then you left someone that asked for help. What is wrong with you? Never rap on one line unless your life is about to end. There aren't enough climbs at RR that you need to jam someone else?
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harihari
Trad climber
Squampton
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Good points all, except Frumy-- read the whole thread, your comments will have been addressed.
Dunno why people are down on simul-rapping (unless you are a noob in which case caution is in order). For me and partners it's standard-- much faster, plus if you do miss a rap (which is less liekly with four eyes and sets of headlamps), you can both move up together (if you rap down on your own, jugging on two lines, or one knot-jammed side, takes longer). Plus, in RR, in the case of wind, you can stack the ropes and rap with them (each climber takes one) so you reduce issues re: hung ropes.
RR seems to have lots of decent bolted anchors; simulrapping is not something I would do when bailing off a couple of bail nuts.
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GI Joe
Trad climber
Fairfield CA
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Apr 16, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
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Nothing has changed I see. Prepare to be pissed off if you are in there this time of year below another party. I think the dabblers drive straight from the REI in Orange county to Solar slab for their first attempt at real rock. Bouldering V6 on plastic means zilch and they spend the night in their short pants way up there. Welcome to reality.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 16, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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harihari,
did you really just suggest that bolts are always better than nuts?
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