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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Did a bunch of it yesterday, with a pretty knowledgeable guide. I think I can remember what we did and show others.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I wanna do it again!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
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Here we are, Tom, on the Skin Diver summit with lots of fine company.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Way cool. Thanks again Doug and Amy. And thanks for the shot Jody, I wasn't sure who was out there taking the shot. We're famous now for sure. I'll send in my two weeks on the day job.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
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End of the day, descending west off the Big Slab Pinnacle. Eva's shot here shows most of the descent chimney unusually well.
News Flash: I have been puzzling lately over Smoke's description of the Aboriginal Chimney, a "vertical, four-sided chimney" off the back of the Big Slab Pinnacle. Coming down this descent route again, I found it! It is near the top of this descent, back in the upper chimney, so of course not visible in this view.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 11, 2015 - 06:42am PT
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What a cool natural passage off the top. I came home and read more about the course since I could now match some memories to the old descriptions. I wondered if the west chimney was the part of the four sided chimney.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Nov 26, 2015 - 11:37am PT
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Just been looking into it more hoping to do it soon. You can read the entire thread, and should, or you can get the goods right away ...
This thread ...
Smoke's Book of course and ...
Video:
Smoke's Rock Course
By Ed Hartouni
https://vimeo.com/34451549
The Curious Tale of Smoke Blanchard and his Buttermilk Rock Course, by Doug Robinson
http://movingoverstone.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Smokes-Rock-Course.pdf
I'm ok with guide books and articles about great climbs. It's human to want share the joy with others. I don't see it being a problem or it being overrun. No worries. There is a time and place for secret areas and climbs we want to keep to ourselves. It you really don't want to share it then tell no one. Just do it. There is so much of that throughout the World still to do. Share it when you want to or don't. It's your call.
I'm glad Doug shared Smoke Blanchard's Buttermilk Rock Course. No doubt there are countless variations to do also.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Bump for Smoke. Did part of the course with Doug and eleven others Saturday at the Highball Classic. We finished with the Fat Man Chimney (about a third of the course?), which was posted in a picture earlier. Doug was awesome, lots of history and he told us he is working on a map of the course. Miles and Amy of Lone Pine/Whitney Portal fame and shenanigans helped guide, they are always entertaining. Doug kept us trad with body belays and bowlines. Lunch and wine (Smoke's tradition) was waiting for us at Picnic Valley.
Great to see this tradition revived and hopefully well documented I talked to Russ at the event later Saturday night and he told me that he had done the course with Smoke.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Mar 11, 2018 - 01:24pm PT
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Bump for more Smoke
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