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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Nov 24, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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Thanks Eric, Philo actually gives a link to that article upthread. The one we are talking about is from Climbing in 1998. It was a profile on The Gambler when he was still around.
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ddscott
Trad climber
Boulder,Colorado
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Nov 24, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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I just started to scan some photos of Johhny. I'll post more of climbing in Thailand later. We were living the dream climbing here. I'll put the old Gunnison ones on my first post.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 24, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
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As requested:
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RadDad
climber
Thorp, WA
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Nov 25, 2010 - 03:20am PT
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I have enjoyed reading all the memories...wow, thanks everyone!
When I think of a memory for John it would have to be him rescuing me from Aspen in '79. I had tried to make a go of living in Aspen that summer and it wasn't working. I was stuck and down on my luck. How it all lined up I cannot say... but, he picked me up (could it have been that infamous orange truck?) and brought me back to the great Northwest. Thank you John! With a quick stop at my folks place in Tacoma, (you know the place Peder) we were off to Squamish where we did lots of stuff I can't remember. I'm sure we did some climbing too.
My condolences to all John's family and friends.
Doug Klewin
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Nov 25, 2010 - 09:32am PT
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I never met John but I feel I know him now from this thread. In a sport with so many characters, he really seems to have stood out as one of the most colorful. Whenever the phrase "living the life" pops up, it will be his that I think of as the best illustration.
I hope that his family can take consolation from the positive impact that he had on so many others.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Nov 27, 2010 - 04:21am PT
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Doug, post the photos!
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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I met John in the fall of '91. He was playing in the World Series of Poker and I was doing Desert Tortoise biology and climbing at Red Rocks. We were both crashing at Waterman Bob's house. He would leave in evening to play and sometimes not get back til the following day. I asked him enough questions about playing poker that he wrote out a list of what beats what and said he'd give me $40 to play in one of the seven card stud side games. He made it pretty clear that all I had to do was be real patient and bet conservatively until I knew I had solid cards. I followed his advice was up a little, and over time, up a little more for several hours. His strategy was working. At some point I got a little bored, and it not being my money, I started to bet a little more liberally. I crashed out going for the big hand in a half and hour or so. I went and watched John in a Texas Hold 'em game at one of the main tables. It was pretty interesting to see him with big stacks of chips playing high stakes poker. A few days later he asked if I could return the favor by driving him to the casino so he could pick his bank. I guess he'd bought in at the start of tournament and had all his money in chips and it was time to cash back out. When we got near the casino he told me to drop him off in front and to drive around the block as slow as I could and that he'd get back in my truck as I came around again. As I pulled into the front drive of the casino, like clockwork, John pushed through the front door wearing sunglasses with bulges throughout the front of his leather jacket walked with determination to my truck. He told me to keep it rolling and got in. He had more cash in his jacket than I could comprehend at the time. That couple of weeks was a view into a world I was completely ignorant of. John was really fun to have conversations with and really generous with sharing his knowledge of poker.
We didn't get to climb together during that time. The only climbing story I have isn't really a climbing story. We got a little sandbagged bagged by our friend George Smith. George told us there was an excellent five or six pitch 5.6 we could solo. He told us there was no way we'd need a rope based off the ropeless climbing we had on our resumes. We stopped by Desert Rock to get chalk or something and ran into Peter Mayfield and another guy. This is digging deep so the details might not be exact. Anyway, four us jogged out Oak Creek I think it was, and without a topo all concluded we were looking at the route. The four us all decided we didn't want to onsight solo the exposed looking arete with only enough beta to identify the first pitch of the route. We walked back to the car somewhat dejected but reassuring ourselves that it would be better to at least climb the route with a rope before bringing it into the solo circuit. All and all it was really fun hanging out with John that fall.
I saw John again at the Needles in 2004. It was brief, and again, we did not get to climb together. I wish I had had the opportunity to share some pitches with him. I feel for all his family and friends. I admire that he lived life without the security of the 9-5 grind. This isn't the way I had hoped the story would be be resolved.
Jim
edit: I had originally said Needles 2006 but got a note from a ST member that he disappeared in 2005 and was last in the Needles in 2004. I apologize for the huge mistake.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 27, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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John Rosholt the true American classic.
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Betty Uno
Boulder climber
Lafayette, Colorado
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Nov 30, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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I am so glad there is closure for his sisters and family. That is undoubtably where he'd wish to be. What a legend. Goodbye John Rosholt.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 30, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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I saw John again at the Needles in 2004...
Interesting you mention this. I think this was the same time, the only time, I met John Rosholt. Dr. Yoho was there too?
John was a larger than life figure. Amazing.
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Betty Uno
Social climber
Colorado native
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Oh look, there's that green belt again.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Thanks Coz, that was a great tribute to an old friend. RIP
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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I never got to meet John Rosholt yet appreciate his vision and accomplishments. It sounds like he was fully alive. A modern day cowboy whose disappearance has haunted many for years.
I'm not sure if it matters in the end, but it's clear from this video clip that his few remains were found high on the wall not on Prince of Darkness, but on what may be near (or below) The Velvet Wall Original Route, a seldom done line which starts off the Black Tower above the Epinephrine Chimneys.
http://www.8newsnow.com/story/13494380/las-vegas-police-retreive-remains-from-red-rock
John "The Gambler" Rosholt, Thank you for the inspiration. Rest in Peace.
Albert Newman
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flyn
Big Wall climber
las vegas
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Out of respect to John I am posting my 2 cents.
First, this has been a great mystery and I am thankful we at least know where John ended up. As most know, John had a special place in his heart for Black Velvet Canyon and there is no better place for a climber to lay to rest. Most of us are very Earth oriented people and it is much better to return to the Earth. Save the box!
I still have many questions as to how he got where he was, what were the circumstances, etc. but we may never get to know. I participated with John's sister Jane years ago trying to help locate John and can only say that Jane is a great sister! If I go missing, call Jane!
I first met John at the Oak Creek Campground in Red Rocks back when Red Rocks was "climber friendly". Not so much anymore! There was a camaraderie amongst climbers then that seems more rare today and I was fortunate to have met John during these times. Everyone seemed to know everyone. John happened to be playing in a Poker tournament at Binion's and happened to have free buffet tickets and offered to take the gang to dinner! There must have been 6 of us or so. I hadn't eaten so good in months! We all actually ended up getting our picture taken as a group at Binion's in front of a case of 1,000,000 dollars which was a classic! I wish I still had mine. If anyone here was with us (you know who you are)and still has your, I'd love a copy.
Finally, John has left us with many fine climbs and memories. Thanks to all who have shared here as I have enjoyed reading! Thank You John and see you on the other side.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Dec 17, 2010 - 03:38am PT
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bump bump bump
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Randy Atkinson
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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Hi all, thanks Peder for capturing the essence of the John Rosholt I knew. I only climbed with John in the late 70's, Yosemite and Squamish. He was a mentor for climbing that I truly appreciated, he did know how to place gear, he had his funky slider stopper things, and everything was always solid.
I am the guy who sandbagged John on Clean Crack. Clint Cummins posted an article that shares John's accomplishments and the Clean Crack story. As Peder noted, John scanned guides for points of aid, A0, he loved the FFA, FA. And this was without chaulk, unlike myself who lathered rather heavily.
Met John in the Valley, with him taking me up, sort of swinging leads, 1st pitch only, Bev' Tower, of the Nabisco Wall. We did Wheat Thins, Butterfingers to top out. We did other routes in the valley that season, but that was a real kicker at that time. And truth is, I climbed Butterballs with Jim Collins, Leanord Coyne, and John, he hit it first time, Jim and Leanord did not.
When John showed up in Squamish it was still the early days of free climbing and he was a man that could gobble up that aid. I knew that Anders had cleaned the crap out of Clean Crack, good job, but was pretty sure he didn't have a chance in heck in getting up the thing. We had sort of climbed all of the cracks around at that time, and it came down to wandering down to the Malemute and givener. It was a classic yoyo fest, pull the rope cause were focusing on style to the stump, with John topping out. We loved it. And we did not get sh#t that day from the cleaner of the route, the venerable Mighty Hiker, Anders. Unless you correct me here Anders.
John climbed with many of us Squamish climbers, and did make a rather major impact with big contributions. I am truly sorry for everyone's loss especially those who knew him far better than I. Doug Scott and all, I hope the wake or whatever you all did was in the fine style that John always exemplified.
Take care all,
Randy
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:11am PT
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No, I wasn't at all concerned that you and John had done the FFA of the 'new' Clean Crack. I'd spent five or six days digging and working on it over the preceding eight months, had tried it once or twice, and was pretty sure I wan't going to be able to do the thin part below the stump. I was about as fit and strong then as I've ever been, and never have cleanly led it, although have done it a few times with a friendly top rope. You and I were climbing together a fair bit then, and it was nice that someone I knew had gotten it, even if an American rope gun was involved.
The same thing happened with Crime of the Century, although it took much less effort to dig out. I was pretty sure I wasn't going to be able to do it, and didn't mind that someone else did. Contributing to the community, perhaps - IMHO it's fine to leave a climb for someone better, or to come back another day, and we all should at times do things which may benefit others more than ourselves.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 24, 2010 - 04:08am PT
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Rest in peace, John. Lots more routes await us all.
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