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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2011 - 10:04am PT
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Thanks Powder, I'm leaving for Patagonia on Monday and I hope to be able to share pictures from unexplored areas when I return.
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Thanks, Mr Donini, for sharing these amazing (and historical) photos!!!!! =D
This is exactly why I am here on STForum... (and "finally" post a reply)
We need more of these..., and also something like "Crack climbing- getting started"!!
~_~
Originally posted Dec 1, 2011 - 12:34am PT
2nd re-post to bump (oops... I deleted the 1st re-post before seeing the reply)
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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NP Mr. Donini =)
I just think this thread deserves a lot of more than a lot of others... and
people deserve to see the awesomeness of those amazing photos =D
Have a FANTASTIC trip in Patagonia!!
(looking forward to more pictures *^_^*)
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MH2
climber
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she'll complete a book that does justice to this great experience
Good news.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Got to see more of this at the Donini slide show here on Sunday night.
I can't stop thinking about how hard this climb was and comparing it to my day-to-day life as I go through the day.
--Lying on your back in a tent for days thousands of feet above the ground while waiting out the weather.
--Rappelling all day, then spending the night sitting on a snow covered ledge while spindrift buries you. Then doing the same thing the next day, and night.
The badassness of this trip is up there with Shackelton & Alexander the Great.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Last year Jim Donini gave his photos and perspective on the climb to the Sierra Nevada Section Holiday dinner. Two nights ago, George Lowe gave his.
It was almost heartbreaking that this amazing team had to turn around. George mentioned several times in his show that he had learned early on in climbing (I think from Leigh Ortenberger) that the ultimate goal is to Get Back Down. These guys managed to get themselves and seriously ill partner Jeff down. All safely. All to go on to additional major accomplishments. A great feat in climbing in spite of not making the summit.
I wonder if the changing climate of the last 33 years has significantly altered the route.
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Great to see a real TR, next time I'm having a melt down on one of my outings I gotta remember the picture of Jim in the tent losing weight.
steve
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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We now felt fully engaged.
What can you say to a comment like that when it comes with a photo like the serac traverse?
Iconic words of Alpinism's best.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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I have to throw in my awe, appreciation and respect for Jim, Lowe, Lowe, Kennedy and all climbers like them, who put everything on the line in remote, high places - betting the bank that with their own skill, discipline, guts and a little gear they can visit places where no human has stood before. When they triumph, we all win.
I piddle on pebbles. These men are climbers.
I met Jim right after he came back from the FA of Torre Egger, probably the most difficult alpine climb ever done at that time. I had just started climbing and worked up the nerve to approach the world class mountaineer after his slide show, and he sat there and chatted with me for as long as I wanted.He was so genuinely stoked when I told him that I had just led my first 5.6 that it touches me to this day. I was headed to Mission Gorge the next day, and he told me that if he was still in town he would like to have a look at the Gorge, and maybe we could do a climb together.
Imagine.
Jim Donini is a good guy and a great climber.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Mike Pennings was originally going with Josh, but I talked to him yesterday and he said he had decided not to go. Josh has been getting it done and I hope he finishes the damn thing off, it's getting to old for virgin status.
Thanks for the bump but it won't be here long. The picture of Jeff can't compete with a cat wearing a piece of toast around it's head on this forum.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 29, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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I hear Michael Kennedy's free now :-), you and he could lead that young whelp up that old virgin.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Michael and I would have to tell Josh that we had reached the age where he needed to remember only one climbing command....."up rope, I'm not moving!"
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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May 29, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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pretty
bad
ass...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 29, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Too bad Copp and Dash aren't still around (RIP), that'd be a strong team with Josh.
But I know, teams are about chemistry as much as they are about talent. Sometimes, guys you think would be great partners can't climb one pitch together without coming to blows.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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May 29, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Awe...
Finding this just made my day. Thanks for resurrecting the good stuff.
(My heart is actually beating faster - what a riot! I obviously need to get out more...)
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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May 29, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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sigh...
I can't find the cat with toast wrapped around his head...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 29, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Hey Donini, remember when we did the Witch and found footprints at the rap?
Found out at Charlie's surprise party a few months later that it was Pennings!
Back when Sawmill was green;
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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May 29, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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Man, If I knew that sucker would have gone thirty years without a team reaching that high point, I would have given Jello some tylenol and catch him on the way down.
Not funny. I no.
Can you believe how many people have flung themselves at that ridge. I mean, it just looks like a ridge rom the picture. Then you get up close and it is all jingus.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Wild Thing (VI M7 WI 5 4,300 feet) on the east face of Mount Chephren 
Let us know!