Unclimbed big wall in northern california

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survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 30, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
No doubt there is some good looking stone to the right of the raps!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
Looks pretty good except for that pesky hand of god, that whisks men to their doom....
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Aug 30, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
Well done Lads. High adventure for sure.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Aug 30, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
I wanna be in Northern California right now!!!

Nice job, scouts!
Blakeb

Gym climber
Southern Oregon, behind her
Aug 30, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
Nice pics guys, looks like fun!

Climbing new routes, being a good climber, being around for a while, attention seeking and talking out your ass.

None of these make you a good person.

Sure hope i never meet this tony guy, what a f-in jerk off
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 30, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
Well hasn't this thread turned around.....Crow eating fools. Wish I could hobble up there, but maybe there will be some fresh when I find out where it is. Just for the record( Per Uncle Miltie....I'll only show you enough to win).
The area looks great, hopefully we can peacefully maintain access with local home owners. With the ever increasing number of folks "Climbing" it's refreshing to find some new, and different places. 40 years ago we enjoyed one another's company , things have changed.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Aug 30, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
Thanks for posting the pics for us. Looks like fun to me.
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Aug 30, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
Although the OP is slightly wrong since bolts were found and ascents have most likely been made,
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 30, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
that's why i asked, clint. nice looking pics at last--but be honest about one thing--is it a big wall?
Stonewalker

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2010 - 01:18am PT














First of all, this place is not for the beginner or intermediate climber. It is as raw as can be! There are signs of climbing activity down low on the wall, but nothing to indicate an "ascent". Too early to tell, but anything is possible. The bolts we saw were new, not six months old, placed in the line of my rappel route, three pitches down, then off to climber's right. I scanned the area for any possible signs of climbing activity and found nothing else. Most likely just exploration. If someone has made an ascent, I applaud them.
I have been studying the area for four years off-and-on. Satellite photos, bush whacking, trimming, scouting dangerously close to the edge, and finally throwing a rope into the air and taking a closer look for myself.
As for what I found, truly amazing. Beautiful, solid granite. It's not the best, but it's really, really, really good.
I didn't lie about the approach. 15 mins, but needs some work. Remember, it's -raw-! It's not easy work, either. We carried and fixed a thousand feet of rope. Then, pulled it up and off the rock in rainy and wet conditions.
Is it a big wall or not? I can tell you from my experience, anybody that goes out there will approach it that way. It's too raw, for now, not to. The access is sensitive and needs work. If you're still thinking of climbing here, please be up to the task. I will try to keep a record of routes for those that want to report back.
Next weekend I hope to be hiking in with my packed bags and ledge for three days. Two, maybe three, routes.


Now, everybody. On the count of three...repeat after me. "F*#k off, Tony!" One...two...three...!!!
edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Aug 31, 2010 - 01:31am PT
Bravo--to anybody who looks around the next corner, or walks up that distant hill, to take one more step that few have done before...


Well done, sir(s)!!!!1111
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 31, 2010 - 01:35am PT
How far from San Jose? Looks doable. Not crazy steep though huh?
sempervirens

Trad climber
Trinity County
Aug 31, 2010 - 01:42am PT
Has this wall been outed yet? I'm too lazy to read ALL the posts. Is it in the Middle Fork of the Feather River Gorge? Looks like it. Would you tell us if I guessed it right? At least this thread is fun.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Aug 31, 2010 - 03:52am PT
Fresh bolts encountered in "unknown" & unreported territory. I know the feeling. There are always more kindred spirits out there exploring than we sometimes imagine.

And thus falls (once again) someone's secret playground to the teeming masses on the internet. :)

Let us know when you find/meet the folks who ventured there before, be it recently or long ago. And who knows, maybe they are reading now, and will chime in eventually.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 31, 2010 - 10:30am PT
Welcome to ST Stonewalker. LOL. Got fully flamed and took it like a man. Good for you. I suspected it had been explored before since virtually nothing is untouched, but it looks pretty darn raw and there's clearly a lot of potential. Good luck with the development.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Aug 31, 2010 - 10:58am PT
Looks like a choss pile.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 31, 2010 - 11:20am PT
you gotta understand one thing about me, i'm not looking for love on here.

this isn't a big wall, but it looks like a great piece of rock. be careful about claiming a big wall. lots of big wall experience on ST. i don't see anything a strong party isn't going to be able to climb in a day using trad pro on obvious lines. the terrain looks much like tahquitz rock, possibly a few pitches longer. this is a find, and you are to be thanked for bringing it to our attention, but you're also obviously not the only guy working it.

from these pics, i'm guessing a steeper buttress on the left and longer, lower-angle climbing center, where the longest stretch is, and an interesting headwall at the top. c'mon, now, how many pitches? if it proves out as long, multipitch face climbing, it could become a real destination for that.

blow off a little steam, bud. this a great rock. give it a name, if it doesn't have one yet. don't make up one if it already does. i hope access can be worked out. get together with the other climbers.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 31, 2010 - 11:32am PT
You f*#kers in California have it all too good. [/envy] Damn.

Looks awesome, congrats, enjoy and be safe bros!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 31, 2010 - 11:54am PT
This is a pretty fun thread...
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Aug 31, 2010 - 11:58am PT
Does look like a slightly larger than Tahquitz.

About how many pitches for the main headwall??
Messages 101 - 120 of total 178 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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