Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2006 - 03:46pm PT
|
Michael Reardon sell shoes for Acopa. Publicity is good for business. Controversey sells. Integrety is NOT mandatory for profit (Look at all the money Girls Gone Wild has made...). Fact or fiction, he's already a "famous" person in our little climbing world. I hope Acopa makes alot of money from his spray; Bacher says the shoes are worthy, which is good enough for me. Acopa, as long as they have Reardon on board, will have to invest alot of time definding him, which , to me, would seem to get old. Michael is an amazing athlete, and an amazing climber. When you are a sponcered athlete, you probably should give a damn what other people think of your hard solo sends. When you are in the lime light, things are different, aren't they? I am glad that when I go climbing, I don't need proof, a photographer, a clean t-shirt, or get put under the microscope. Along with being a big shot, comes the poparrazzi; movie stars have been complaining about it for decades. Now we get to hear Michael and Acopa whine about it too. It's show time, the big top, and let the circus play it's full hand.....the climbing community will clean up the elephant dung after the show.
|
|
immanti
climber
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
|
"What possible good would MR be to any company if he was just talk?"
"Umm..as an investor?" Nice try, but he is not an investor.
"Perhaps you'd care to fill us in on what free solos you've seen him do - which would be a first, because no one who's actually seen anything noteworthy has ever posted up; nor, to my knowledge, has there ever been a credible, disinterested witness of same. I would take Bachar's word for it, despite his having a vested interest, but all he's done is offer the benefit of the doubt - he apparently hasn't seen anything either."
I've seen enough to believe. But you apparently were too busy typing your nay-saying to read the post where Bachar says he has seen him and that he soloed with Reardon in Tahquitz. That's not just the benefit of the doubt, bro.
"No one saw Croft solo the Rostrum or Astroman the first few times he did those routes, or Bachar the Moratorium, but no one doubted it for a second."
Oh, some people did doubt it, just like you. They were all eventually proven wrong, just like you. It's just that there were no internet forums back then and no full-time "keyboard" climbers to get jealous about it and cast senseless doubt.
"And, on a similar note Bachar's $10k challenge back in the day was BS as well...yeah let's go follow someone on their home circuit that they have totally wired and know all the trick beta for."
BS? I'll tell you what, I'm sure neither Reardon nor Bachar would object to taking you up on the challenge at any crag you like, even the ones YOU have wired. Name the crag, you're on.
"yet we're being asked to believe that he's done things that represent a quantum leap beyond anything either one ever did."
Who asked you to do anything? I didn't. Believe, don't believe, that's your own thing. EDIT: No need to get nasty!
And like Forest Gump said, "that's all I have to say about that".
|
|
Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2006 - 06:23pm PT
|
since Bachar and Jeff Lowe say the guy is real, i have to go with them.
if you doubters simply dont like the guy, just be honest about it.
|
|
Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
|
Gotta love your post, Gordo!
|
|
graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
|
I really want to stay away for this trivia but a few of you are coming off a little unknowledgeable here. I know you are all passionate about your climbing and would want to know if someone is yanking your perception of things. Here are a few details
Mr. immanti (Dario) is the owner of the boot factory in Mexico that makes Acopa shoes. He is a friend of mine so you will have to just take my word on it that he is real. I don’t know how many languages he speaks but English is at least his second or third. Talking to him face to face you would think he’s educated at Harvard and has lived here all his life. Reardon is a friend of his and he is simply fed up listening to the slander. I’m sure anyone here would defend their friends in the same way.
I just met Michael Reardon this August for the first time. I was cornered pretty quickly by a guy who was extremely enthusiastic about what he does. I find myself talking (ok listening more) with a person who enjoys the people he meets climbing more so than the numbers you can get caught up in. Having met many strong climbing personalities over the years I can only smile at a zealous attitude and think back to similarities I have seen in others.
Then Michael proceeded to pull out a folder (of slides) with a 20-30 shot sequence of him soloing the pirate I just got goose bumps up and down my arms. I was disappointed with the single shot Climbing magazine chose later on because it could be thought of as questionable, maybe there’s intrigue in that. I was up at Suicide rock on Labor Day with my son. As we are walking past the Pirate I stop to scratch my head because in my mind it’s all hard to grasp. If I hadn’t seen the photos (slides) first hand I’d probably still just keep my mouth shut and wait for more information.
I haven’t climbed with Reardon but I hope to someday. I told him one thing for sure when we do we’re going to use a rope. When he said he would put me on a leash I just laughed without it bruising my ego.
Mike Graham
Edited to clarify photos were slides
|
|
powderdave
climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
|
Quick note:
Met MR at the HERA Climb For Life fundraiser in Salt Lake City last month, where we both volunteered. He arrived with his wife, daughter, glam-rock hairdo, and big reputation. He was gushing with enthusiasm and very approachable. Seeing him interact with everyone (newbies to pros) and his wife and daughter (who he obviously adores), gave an insight into the who MR really is. I climbed with him only one day and indoors (for what its worth he was easily onsighting 5.12 on plastic, in jeans of course).
Bottom line: If he hasn't injured you personally, why the f*#k do you all care so much? Get a life.
|
|
HighGravity
climber
Riverside, CA
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
|
Ok, this cracks me up. I can't believe how worked up people get over this. Who the F cares? If MR does it and you see it, then you know. If he doesn't do it in front of your face then you can doubt away. But once again, who the F cares? I can't believe all the people who get so worked up over this. I met MR in Idyllwild a few months back and we chatted for a bit. There was no spray involved and he seemed like a cool guy. I'm not going to spend all night sitting up questioning his abilities, I'm going to sleep so I can get out and climb.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 08:44pm PT
|
There is some unpleasantness on this thread, some speculation, and some unnecessary personal remarks. Anonymity has its price.
Free soloing is a very personal thing, and a pure form of climbing. It has a long and honourable history. We all solo at some level or other. Most of us modest climbs, well within our abilities, some at a high level. Very often there are no or few witnesses, and we don't tell many others. Those who solo even moderately difficult climbs soon learn that it's something you only do for yourself.
Do we really want a climbing world where:
1. Climbers (soloists) are NOT taken at their word?
2. Anyone claiming a significant climb must be accompanied by independent witnesses if not a film crew, to "prove" the ascent?
This seems the logical consequence of what the sceptics are saying. It is also the opposite of our community's traditions and values. Has climbing changed so much?
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof" (Sagan), and sometimes exceptions have to be made. But not many. Is this really one of them?
The logical result is that doubted soloists would be goaded into "proving" themselves, by doing or repeating their climbs, with witnesses. And some of them would die because of it.
In the interests of full disclosure, I met Michael Reardon at the trade show in August, and he spoke at the Squamish Climbers Festival in September. He waived his fee, which was a great help. I've only seen Michael climb on slides and video. He's a lively character - no need to put a quarter in him. Whatever his style, there's no doubt that he's done some impressive climbs and solos. He may have a different style and personality than some other well known soloists - but I wouldn't confuse style with substance.
Anders
ps I also met Steve Karafa, Dario, and Anastasia at the trade show. We're acquaintances, anyway. I've known John, on and off, since 1976. And I'm hoping soon to buy some Acopa shoes, as they seem to fit my skinny feet.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 12:13am PT
|
Good grief Joe, what's happened to you?
Just please let it go, just let it go .......
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 12:57am PT
|
jg: I can't speak from personal experience to what Michael has or hasn't done. Apart from Joshua Tree, I'm not familiar with the areas he mostly climbs at, except from pictures. I don't know him well, and haven't climbed with him. Still, even his critics seem to agree that he's done some amazing climbing, whatever their views about his style and personality, or the details.
A few people may have soloed well over 100 pitches in a day at Squamish. Certainly Peter, Hamish and perhaps others used to do solo sprees which involved a lot of climbing in a day, though I doubt they kept count. Some fairly hard, some moderate, but a lot. Two climbers once did the Grand Wall, to Bellygood, five times in a day - 60 pitches, plus descents. Someone did a dozen roped routes on our Apron in a day, with pre-fixed rappel - about 70 pitches. Not El Cap twice in 24 hours, or 160 pitches solo, but quite a lot, and perhaps getting in the ballpark.
Someone who can solo 5.12, and knows the area/routes, might climb 160 routes in a long day at Joshua Tree. There are people who solo there who would know, and it may depend a lot on planning - difficulty, location, descents, etc.
If I understand rightly - correct me if I'm wrong - Michael can lead to somewhere in the "easy" 5.13 range. There are witnesses to his soloing 5.12, and many witnesses to his soloing "easier" climbs. (Soloists often don't have witnesses, may not want them, and can't always hang around, hoping that they'll be seen.) His performance may not always be consistent, but we all have less-good days. The kind that are lethal to soloists. If Romantic Warrior was the only 5.12c he'd ever soloed, or he'd never climbed 5.12c at all, or soloed harder than 5.11, that might make it an extraordinary claim. Or if there was evidence that he wasn't there that day, or didn't know the route, or something of the sort. That doesn't seem to be the case.
For the most part, the evidence that Michael didn't do what says seems circumstantial, or ad hominem. And no true story is perfectly consistent.
Climbers love to gossip, and can be merciless critics. For doubters, I suggest that Michael be given the benefit of your doubts. Take him at his word, as we should. Time will tell soon enough. It always does. That's how we do things in our community.
Anders
|
|
Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 02:19am PT
|
I have actually climbed, or more accurately bouldered, with Mike Reardon in Joshua Tree, NP. The guy is a very intense and competitive individual--but at the same time a really friendly person. As best as I can recall, he managed to repeat all the boulder problems that I took him to that day, perhaps including things that were V8 or so. So, do I think he has truly soloed all the routes he has claimed to have? How would I know? All I know from my personal experience is that Mike is a pretty strong boulderer and a really fun guy to be around.
Curt
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 10:42am PT
|
"...which neither Croft or Schultz could do, in their prime, roped-up..."
I don't think this reference is exactly fair to Peter or Dave or MR, for that matter. That was a number of years ago PC and DS were up there. I don't think the route had seen much traffic by then and the sort of licheny gritty quality of the dihedral has been mentioned. More parties try and some do the route now days. Could it be getting cleaned up a bit? Heck, I saw a party of 3 guys from up Yosemite way do the thing in a few hours summer before last. They cruised, topped out and were down for lunch.
|
|
Degaine
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 11:21am PT
|
As other posters have mentioned, Michael is a nice guy oozes enthusiasm when climbing with him. Never found him to be arrogant at all. Always seemed just as excited to see friends enjoy climbing as when sending his own projects.
I’ll take his word for the sends. People who don’t like him won’t. Oh well, does not seem to stop Michael from having a good time. No amount of proof seems to be enough for some. When there are photos, they are of course touched up and edited, when someone formerly considered credible vouches for Michael, that person is suddenly no longer credible.
There are a few photo TRs up on the web of unknown climbers cruising (relatively) up Romantic Warrior.
Anyway, just one question for jghedge: is it hard to climb nowadays with that huge chip on your shoulder?
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 11:48am PT
|
It's interesting that this thread resurfaced. Just last week I was thinking that it had been
a while since any Reardon discussion. In any event, one of my favorite quotes is:
"The only thing worse than people talking about you...is people not talking about you"...
Since Michael clearly likes all the attention he gets, I'm sure he can handle a bit of scutiny.
In fact, it would be unreasonable for him knott to expect it, considering some of his claims.
One thing I have noticed in all these threads is that I keep reading words to the effect of:
"Who gives a fuçk?" or "who cares?"
Invariably these comments are from the pro-Reardon camp, and do knott seem impartial.
Anyway, carry on, and rest assured that MR is reading these threads, and enjoying
them as much as the rest of us. I bet he himself very much "gives a fuçk"...
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
|
Bump for this comment by Hardmann Knott:
"I'd pay big bucks to see an unedited video of him soloing Moonbeam Crack..."
You know, when that 280 routes in a day or whatever went down, I looked at the list and thought the exact same thing. But let's clarify what "big bucks" is, and does that offer stand for someone other that MR hucking a solo lap on it? Not a "name" guy like Honnold or some sponsored wonderkid, but a regular guy?
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
|
Too late now Will. Reardon passed away some time ago. What an amazing bunch of great climbing all stars and old timers this thread (some now gone as well) has seen. Jeff Lowe, John Long, Mike Graham, Werner Braun, Curt Shannon, Anders, Kris Solem, John Bachar, etc etc
wow
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2010 - 12:14am PT
|
'Too bad that a proud free solo ascent like this couldn't have been a more personal achievement without the tainting of the hype/media. Sort of like the first ascent...
 ec
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2010 - 01:14am PT
|
He was a great guy and all the drama means little. He is gone... Dang it, he promised to take me climbing and I'm holding him to it. When we meet again my dear Reardon.
No matter what all of you feel, believe, etc... Please respect the dead. Anything less hurts those of us who are left behind.
AFS
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Bump for the thread that includes JB's first ST post...
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
nice bump. brings back a lot of memories.
Anders doesn't have a surname ?
Tami, that puts him in a league of his own.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!