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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
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OT, I bootied three pieces left on the Great Pumpkin on Fairview on sunday. ID and I'll get them back to the owner
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jul 21, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Bertrand - you still owe us beers and dinner for hauling you guys off the climb. You gonna tell these guys what really happened up there?
Glad we didn't fry.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 21, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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so this is the sort of thread i missed while i was in the alps.
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Bertrand
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
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HAHA, what's up man!
I have been checking myself through this thread for the ethics of not having given you guys props yet! The consideration was that the story already had enough twist to it. And I didn't need to add more to it just yet. But maybe now is a good time.
So here goes! give me five minutes to write it....no other remarks please until I post it up!
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jul 21, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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high traverse mentioned a few pages back that you might have been in the same area where jeff maurer fell. i don't think it was, but if you find my two cams out there, i would take them back (bd .4 and .75). (our favorite east sider in nurses pants returned the first piece.
you have handled both storms (the one on 3rd pillar and the one on st) well. glad to hear the gear is getting back to you.
peace
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Bertrand
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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Our means of egress:
So we have established that I am, at this point, right of the normal route. We had come up from an even further right course below. We had an early start to the day, and despite the signals of having made a mistake with the weather, we felt confident we could finish quickly.
Though we couldn't match up our location with the topo, we knew there were multiple variations. Despite the inherent risks, I enjoy the adventure of not being sure where I am, and I was happy to climb up from here. Up to the rooflet it seemed low 10's finger crack. And really enjoyable climbing. From this position I saw two guys coming down the 3rd class toward the start of the climb.
Beyond the rooflet it went from fingers to tips and got a little steep. furthermore, the gear size was blue aliens, and, between the anchor and the pro I used getting to that point, I was running low of that size. I set a marginal stopper above the rooflet (backed up with bomber blue alien below the rooflet) and tried to fire through the steep finger tips. I fell, stopper blew. I think it ended up being a 30' foot clean whipper. At that point we decided we might have better luck with the lie-back flake just beyond the arete to our right. About 10' off from the gear that remained under the rooflet. This is what turned the tide of the day. I miscalculated, the climbing got very hard before I got a chance for any gear, and, exhausted, I fell w/ penji back to the original line, spinning backward and hitting the backs of my shoulders and head in the wall. YES, I know this sounds like complete amateur hour. I cannot really explain it. The first of the falls was the first time I have fallen on gear in over a year. I have never taken two big falls in a row like that. I detest the sport climbing style of trying and falling over and over.
Anyway, my partner made it clear it was up to me to somehow finish the climb for us. I was pretty disturbed about my climbing and my falling, but didn't see any choice but to continue. (perhaps we should have retreated here given the fatigue/psyche factor). I got back down to the ledge, downclimbed low and left and found the regular route mid P3. I went up through the squeeze and past the standard end-of-P3-belay and up toward the jagged ledge below the 10b face move / RP. It was raining by then, and the 10a corner moves became strenuous liebacking since I did not trust the friction in the rain. As I slung the horns the first round of lightning/heavy rain started. We waited 20 minutes, then brought up my partner. I felt like vomiting.
Next pitch (halfway through P4 on the ST map): Due to the weather we decide to forego the side project of rapping down and right for the gear we left. We just wanted to be off, and to finish safely. I am standing there with the RP slotted contemplating two different ways to do the move...and still rattled from my falls. THEN, the guys we saw earlier come up right behind us to the end-of-P3 belay. It seemed perfectly clear what to do. I was feeling both sick and scared. These guys were climbing very fast through the rain, and they knew the route. I told them we were in distress, and asked if they wouldn't mind passing us and trailing our rope up behind them. Josh and Chris were very cool about the whole thing. And in my opinion, they are VERY strong climbers. I was happy to be done with the sharp end.
Last pitch: This is the kind of climbing I would love to have done if I was feeling better, and if it was dry. But the situation was far different. After Chris got us up to the standard P5 belay, Josh moved up methodically on the wet rock, under rain, in the lightning. It was heroic. The rain and thunder was HEAVY by now, so Josh could not safely hang around to belay at the top. He wisely sought cover after fixing our lines. The other three of us ascended/climbed with tri-block & prussik. This went pretty fast for Chris, but not for us. I think altogether, I was huddled on the ledge for 2 hours, soaking wet, keeping my head down, and hoping lightning didn't strike any of us. I thought it was ironic that it probably hit 100 in Oakdale that day and yet I had never felt colder in my life. Worst epic of my life (including the time I was benighted w/o bivvy gear).
I am pretty crappy with the tri-block...but between climbing and sliding up the rope I eventually topped out, just as the weather was getting nice again.
What can I say... I am a fairly experienced climber; I am pretty astonished that I got myself into all these problems...but each issue represents something that for a variety of reasons I failed to account for. There was a lot of good discussion on this thread already. But the time was right to share all the details and give props where they are due...Thanks again to Josh and Chris & sorry I omitted your part of the story earlier.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
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Jul 21, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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Hey, your account is one of the reasons we love this adventure sport. Thanks for posting up.
P.S. That appears to be the standard descent to me. Or maybe it's off to the right... Still doable, tho. Pretty sure.
P.S.S. Cragman- That other post was a good one. Nicely put.
...............
EDIT
The Alpine- So it sounds like you were P3-P4 when it started lightning in the vincinity. Yet you decided to carry on. No judgment, HERE, just curious. At P4-P5 it was raining and lightning- thickly all about- as you pulled P5 and topped out?! If so, wow.
Okay, I got it: "It was heroic."
............
So Dapper Dan, did you intentionally climb this harder variation to happen across Bert's pieces or did you spot em from below and decide to retrieve them, or what? Curious minds want to know.
.............
Great story, Bertrand. Suspenseful. In parts. Like Hitchcock. Like the Mel Gibson tapes. Drip by drip. Thanks for saving the exit description to the end. If you recall, I was curious about it. A fine ending.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 21, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Slightly off topic:
Real mountain weather on the Grand Teton, right now.
Was perfectly clear this time yesterday.
I've got NO idea what the forecasts were yesterday.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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I remember that memorable post from last year.
Having been nearly that close a couple of times myself and having a friend nearly killed when struck climbing I'm not minimizing the hazard of lightning.
Amazing how fast a thunderstorm can come up on you when you're on a steep east facing cliff anywhere at altitude on the East side of the Sierra.
Or any side of the Tetons or the Wasatch or the Presidentials or the Cuillins or ........
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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so we dash down Ellery bowl GOOD idea. What's the best way to get into Ellery Bowl from the plateau?
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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all these tales of close calls with lightening reminds me of the crazy looks we give our partners when we know that things are BAD.
In 2006, we were descending off the Grand--the weather had been sunny and there were four of us leisurely eating lunch on top. We get to the mandatory rap ledge, there's a bunch of parties bottlenecked, waiting for their turn to rap down. Weather comes in fast, rain, thunder and lightening coming closer... I'm feeling super ancy to get the f*#k off the mountain. When it was *finally* my turn to rap, I lean back, having just double-checked everything and this HUGE deafening thunder cracks...I first look up b/c somehow I think that the loud noise might have dislodged boulders from above and then I do the fastest rap ever...belay device burning, I call 'off rappel' into the deluge and take off running down the slope...
i didn't pee in my pants but i was terrified and so damn grateful to get down safely.
Glad you're ok bertrand! and thanks for sharing the story
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Cragman
THAT's the stuff! Maybe Chris should put that into his next edition of Tuolumne Free or High Sierra Climbing.
zeta
yup. Been there, sun and games on top of the Grand with a clear sky all 'round. Fortunately I was down to the caves before the lightning caught up with me. How I avoided the rap ClusterFk is another story.
Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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all these tales of close calls with lightening reminds me of the crazy looks we give our partners when we know that things are BAD.
I know that look! "Dude, hurry up, we gotta bail NOW!!!!"
2 pitches up Marmot Dome. Every time I go up there I get stormed off. Weird...Still haven't topped out on it.
A prior attempt we watched (on the bail) a lightning strike hit Lembert. I think I said, "Man, I hope nobody was up there"
Cragman, WOW!!! Glad you made it off o.k. on that day.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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Bertrand filled in more details and pics on the previous page. Holy Shit!!!
That was an epic and you're fortunate to be assisted by angels like the ones who 'floated' up to you. Wow!
As Cragman keeps saying, we need to learn from epics likes this!!!!
Also, Bertrand, it takes a man to relay a humbling story like that. Thanks! Hope to run into you again. Climb on and climb safe!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jul 21, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
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Bertrand & Cragman : Thank you for posting up the “embarrassing details” of your epics.
It takes me about 20 years after an epic event, to be willing to tell “the rest of the story.”
However, it is good when I confess, and finally quit hiding the embarrassment in my subconscious.
I have worked real hard at avoiding lightning, and have been lucky enough to never have a strike closer than about 1/10th mile away (you see the flash and hear the bang, before you can start counting to judge distance).
Too damn close: at lightning speed of 186,000 miles a second.
Cragman: if lightning blew up the start of my rappel, likely there would have been more than pee in my pants.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 21, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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Cragman: if lightning blew up the start of my rappel, likely there would have been more than pee in my pants.
I thought the same thing.
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jul 21, 2010 - 09:23pm PT
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My own lightning story from the City of Rocks in Idaho - 1988 - eatin' and drinking on top of the Breadloves - watched a low pass from an Airforce fighter group - they had to be no more than 200 feet above us - we were paying no attention to the clouds creeping over the saddle from Burley, ID. All of a sudden - my partner Kamet's wild ass hair stands on end - and the rack starts buzzing. Holy shiznit - we left all the gear and ran down the 4th class descent - no rain - just strike after strike - we almost got hit several times. Weirdest lightning storm I've ever been in, it all came at once, dry as a bone, and maybe 15 ground - or close to ground strikes all over the saddle area. Several summers later there was a tragedy on Steeple peak just 24 hours after we climbed it - guy and girlfriend survive one strike with injuries - only to get hit again 30 minutes later and he was killed. Scary stuff ole' sparky - to many close calls to count. Be safe.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Jul 22, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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funny how this thread began with cragman ripping the OP for climbing into a storm, but now it has become a celebration of cragman surviving similar events. furthermore, the climbers who rescued the OP, while obvious badasses, have escaped the same criticism despite climbing into the same storm, but with an even later start. so, the OP is a clown who randomly survived despite himself, but the other climbers are heroes because they excelled in terrifying conditions. and cragman's a hero because he got wet and almost got hit by lightning. interesting double standard.
cragman scolds the OP for not asking a local about the weather, yet has himself been overwhelmed in similar situations in tuolumne, despite being that knowledgeable local. cragman wrote: "I knew this could go either way; get dumped on or miss us and dump somewhere else. With two pitches left, we decided to go for the summit." how is this much different than the OP's situation?
furthermore, in the OP's pics, looks like plenty of blue sky overhead, not the ominous thunderhead, 100% precip conditions that many have said prevailed in the area that day. that sky would certainly tempt me upwards.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Jul 22, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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fattrad,
sorry, i don't understand. what did you mean by "different 20%?"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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So my old partner and mate were climbing the exit chimneys of the NE Face of the Piz Badile
when they got slammed by one of the big thunderstorms
that roll up from Italy unseen by the north facers. Alan was leading and
reached for a hold when the lightning struck his hand! His paralyzed arm
dropped to his side. They climbed the remaining 600' and made it down to
the hut. His arm came back to life after a couple of hours.
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