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Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 26, 2014 - 01:53am PT

Brian-

I would normally be taking loads of pictures, but photos of fog banks aren't very inspiring. I went through the military museum on Valparola Pass yesterday, which was interesting.

Even if it's still chilly tomorrow, we may try for a part day of shorter climbs in Cinque Torri. I still haven't ever done Torri Inglesi, Normal Route or the Torre Grande, West Summmit, Guides Route. If we get too cold and wet---there's always the Riugio and some drinks.

HMS

Trad climber

Aug 26, 2014 - 04:40am PT

You're unlucky. It's been a strange year in the Alps. An enormous - record breaking - amount of snow in winter and now the worst summer for years. Never more than 1 stable day in a row. In general you should not believe the local Italian weather forecast.

Franchi/Scheweg next to Hotel Drei Zinnenblick stays dry in the rain. The quality of the rock is like most other sportclimbing areas in the Dolomites: loose and ugly. The routes/moves though are good.

Want to escape the Alps? Head down to Croatia: http://dolomitesport.com/2010/07/climbing-in-paklenica-national-park-croatia/

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 26, 2014 - 08:14am PT

Today was another disappointing day, but I went out for short hike to keep my legs from short-circuiting. On top of the Falzarego Pass, it was spitting raindrops and blowing, all at 5 degrees Celsius. Not. Pleasant. The Tofana di Rozes was wreathed in clouds, but the Falzarego Towers were clear, as was the Kleine Lagazuoi; I snapped a bunch of pictures but haven't downloaded them yet.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Aug 26, 2014 - 08:25am PT

it was spitting raindrops and blowing, all at 45 degrees Celsius

I thought you were in the Dolomites, not the Wadi Rum? :-)

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 26, 2014 - 08:33am PT

Reilly-

So far my views of the Dolomites have been in my dreams...;)

P.S. See my Edit, re: temperature! I hit two keys while typing! It was +5 degrees Celsius.

fgw

climber

portland, or

Aug 26, 2014 - 09:03am PT

Yeah, I remember the 2 shitty days, 1 good day weather pattern...much of the time was spent looking at forecasts:

Midway traverse on the Cassin route of Cima Picolissima (photo taken by a party ahead of us):

Short and pretty hike to the Sella Towers:

Midway traverse on the Pillar Rib route of Tofana's 2nd Buttress:

nothing but great memories from that place!

CCT

Trad climber

Aug 26, 2014 - 10:22am PT

Bump for via ferrata recommendations! I know it's not really "climbing," but my friend doesn't climb and I've got to see the mountains somehow!

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 27, 2014 - 07:47am PT

Finally!

The weather dawned mostly clear with some big puffy clouds, so Enrico (drunkfox) and I ventured to the Cinque Torri for what really amounts to my first climbing of the year since my back injuries last Summer flared up.

I was again reminded that our minds often make appointments that our bodies can't keep. But...we started with Torre Inglesi, Normal Route. Guidebook has this as a UIAA IV-, but all the traffic this route has seen over the 100+ years that it has been climbed has turned the first 10 meters into a slippery POS. I'd definitely agree with the Mountainproject.com grade of 5.6. (I thought it was really insecure on highly polished holds). The second lead is marvelous, and is an ascending traverse at 5.5 to a sharp summit without much of a platform from which to enjoy the surrounding rockscape. My plan for doing Torre Grande, West Summit, "Bergfuehrerweg" went in the crapper, since I was pretty beat. Instead we climbed Torre Latina, Normal Route, UIAA III+ (5.3/5.4) just for some additional activity before hitting the Refugio for beer and food.

This day of activity will become a separate thread later as soon as I receive Enrico's photo file. Anyway, we had lots of fun in the cool Cortina Sun.

sandstone conglomerate

climber

sharon conglomerate central

Aug 27, 2014 - 08:16am PT

Great photos in this thread.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 28, 2014 - 05:44am PT

Jebus-

For the most part, the rock on established routes is fine, and even though the guidebooks caution that there are somewhat lesser quality sections, a conservative approach seems to work well. These are really MOUNTAINS, and not simply a klettergarden. I really dislike much of the East Face of Longs because of terrible rockfall---on GRANITE. The Lower Brother area in Yosemite is another "don't climb there" area, too.

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Aug 28, 2014 - 06:11am PT

Looking forward to hearing more about you getting out and on the rock, Brokedown. I've been following the weather in the Dolomites this summer. I'm glad Patty and I aren't over there this year. Looks like 2 years from now should work for us. In the meantime, seeing what you and others are able to get on will have to do. Hope to meet up with you in RR to hear some details about your trips!

Thinking about coordinating with Drunkfox for his guiding expertise too.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 28, 2014 - 11:25am PT

I recommend climbing with drunkfox, since his abilities are damned good, as well as being a fun companion who speaks good English.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Aug 28, 2014 - 04:07pm PT

Jebus H Bomz

The climbing looks epic, although the stone also scares me to look at (a granite snob).

You're going to chit bricks when you see Eldorado Canyon.

Keep us posted Brokedown.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 29, 2014 - 12:02am PT

Goatboy-

Will do! Further comment to Jebus: he should have seen Eldorado back in the late '50s and early '60s if he wanted to see piles of crap--everywhere. Subsequent years of climbing and gardening have made it seem pretty nice...

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Aug 29, 2014 - 11:50pm PT

Weather is deteriorating again, and rain forecast for weekend. Yesterday was a rest day to allow my knee an additional bit of recovery time, but hiked up to the Forcella (Forcella Laverado) between the Tre Cime and Paternkofel.

Took many pictures, but my present connection is causing me problems in uploading, so be content with the classic view