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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 15, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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You guys have all seen these before, though there aren't nearly as many around as there used to be. Where is it from? Who placed it? When?
Here's another fairly recent photo of it, attached to its bolt.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 16, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Hint: Few if any posters to this thread clipped the hangar when it was attached to the bolt, but almost all have been within 10 m of it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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Slab Alley?
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Chief
climber
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Apr 16, 2010 - 09:49am PT
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Tami, sorry for missing the quotation marks, post those pictures!
Anders I've got a bunch of hangers just like that hanging by the door.
Relics of the same vintage, probably crafted and placed by the same guys.
Man the stories they'd tell if they could talk!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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If I remember correctly, there was a short bolt ladder on Slab Alley that had some of those hangers. And, again if I remember correctly, Les Priest (a climber who disappeared from the scene decades ago) fell while directly above that ladder and slit himself open on one of the hangers. Early 70s I think.
And since I was never part of the Daily Planet thing, in fact didn't even know there was a "thing" about it, I'd love to hear some stories.
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Chief
climber
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Apr 16, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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Those angle stock hangers did make good footholds.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 16, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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The Planet was a defining time for our Squamish tribe and it's hard to see it clearly till you get a decade or two away from it. Everyone of us that toiled and scrapped over that route can be proud of a great climb and friendships that endure to this day.
In alphabetical order the FA credits go something like this;
Mike Beaubien
Perry Beckham
Peter Croft
Hamish Fraser
Blake Robinson
Brooke Sandahl
John Simpson
Respectfuly,
PB
Wow, Perry can post as elegantly as he climbs. Seriously, that's pretty graceful.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 16, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
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Here's another photo of that pesky bolt, where it lived until recently.
(True angle 10 - 15 degrees greater than it appears.)
And here are photos of another fine piece of gear, which everyone on this thread probably clipped into at some time. Removed some years ago, but from what climb?
Chief: Those angle stock hangers did make good footholds.
In the purely theoretical sense, of course. They might have made good footholds, but we never stood on them, or held onto them. The very farthest thing from our thoughts.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 16, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
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the pin on apron strings?
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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Apr 16, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
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squamish buttress?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
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The bolt looks to be on the last pitch of Slab Alley where it cuts left across to Banana Peel.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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that pin is the one from the banana peel flake crux isn't it?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 17, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Funny you should mention Banana Peel. Done by Dan Tate and Barry Hagen in 1965. Now the scene of much whining at the moderate runout slabs that the route features, although there is one bolt. But that bolt apparently wasn't placed on the first ascent.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2010 - 01:29am PT
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Mighty Hiker: Funny you should mention Banana Peel. Done by Dan Tate and Barry Hagen in 1965. Now the scene of endless whining at the moderate runout slabs that the route features, although there is one bolt. But that bolt apparently wasn't placed on the first ascent.
This is correct: there was no bolt on the first few ascents. I was up there a few weeks after the first ascent, went up a ways and didn't care for what I saw. So I backed off and we did something else. I went back a few weeks later, did it with no problems. Still no bolt. The bolt showed up within a year, but nobody ever took "credit" for it and I never found out who it was. I had my suspicions but at this late date I can't remember who I thought the culprits were.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 17, 2010 - 01:40am PT
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assuming the mountain horizon in the background sets the horizontal...
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MH2
climber
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Apr 17, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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Thanks for the slightly out-of-place comments on the Left Side and Daily Planet. The Daily Planet did make a splash at the time. I remember getting an enthusiastic recommendation from Uli and Ira Leuthasser in Seattle, mid-80s. The Left Side should get more traffic and that first 20 feet or so to the roof where the crack starts is hard and thinly protected and considered by some to be the technical crux. The talk about moving from the Left Side to the Right Side confused me but I guess it is about making the looong reach across to the base of the Split Pillar, just up and left of the 3-bolt ladder, now protected by a solid newish bolt and used by Scot Cosgrove on the free ascent. There is also a step-across from the top of the Left Side to the ledge at the top of the Split Pillar. Isn't that still 5.9?
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MH2
climber
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Apr 17, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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Also about 10 m distant from a well-beaten path
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 18, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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Ding ding ding! OK, Tricouni wins the prize for where the hanger came from. Maybe he should have been DQed - those who know too much. It's from the second-last pitch of Slab Alley before Broadway, on the original route - where it traversed left into what is now the last pitch of Banana Peel. But he hasn't told us when it was placed, or by whom. (The original line of Slab Alley also included what is now Boomstick Crack.)
And the pin was from the fourth (or so) pitch of Banana Peel, where there's a short corner crack in a steep wall. It was there in September 1973, if not earlier, and still there in August 2000 when I removed it. Quite easily, I should mention - oddly, for all the fuss some climbers make about safety, no one seems to have bothered checking it for years. A couple taps and a tug. About 1/3 of the metal had eroded away.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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Apr 18, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Tell it to us Bruce !
We are done with slab alley for sure ....
I am still chuffed McLane refused to publish my uber classic backside route "Too Drunk to Fukk" in his original guide
Bruce can you get me into to Toba so I can do a little Bigfoot hunting ? Do they accept guests up there ? Drop me off in the woods with my night vision cameras for a few days .... fuk all going on at Bute in terms of Sasquatch as far as I could tell.
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