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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, dear cleo and all... i am very sorry i could not help you all in praying for everyone.... i didnt check many post lately...
been off and on, in bits, only...
god bless and prayers now, though, to the families, and to you, as you face this hard time of loss, and the future, without your
dear friend...
sending my condolences and wishes...
very sad to hear this...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Just me and three kids
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Thank you so much for posting that note from the family Cleo. It is much appreciated and good to know they were prepared, understood the risks, and did all that could be done. What more can anyone ask?
My deepest condolences to all of Mark's family, friends and acquaintances. Our prayers are with you.
Eric
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Mike Slizewski
Social climber
Yreka, California
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Hello, everyone. My deepest condolences on the loss of your friend.
My name is Mike Slizewski; I'm the managing editor of the Siskiyou Daily News, Yreka, Calif. Yreka is on I-5 about 30 miles north of Mt. Shasta, which is in our coverage area. We've been following and and reporting on the tragic occurrence since it began.
I am doing a story for our annual Siskiyou Magazine, which will be distributed in print regionally and online on our Web site in about two weeks. It will include the Siskiyou County Sheriff's Office releases chronologically, interspersed with comments drawn from this thread that reflect on the wonderful person that has been lost.
Please reply here is you would rather I did not use your comment(s).
I have summitted Mt. Shasta four times in seven tries, always taking someone new up the "easy" route, Avalanche Gulch. We turned back the other three times because someone in our party got altitude sickness.
It is a beautiful and powerful mountain. The magazine article is being written with great respect, and I will post a link to it here when the magazine comes out.
Mike
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Maybe you could post a link to the piece here when it's finished.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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Please reply here is you would rather I did not use your comment(s).
Actually, I think they are all Supertopo®'s comments. Methinks you should ask permission from the site owner.
Also, if you are considering quoting a Supertopo® user's comments, you should really contact them directly and ask permission; way classier this way.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'm a news reporter- I'm pretty sure I've never referenced anything here.
I'm also on the local SAR team so I get confused in my loyalties from time to time.
The question is could I? I bet my boss would have no problem with it.
It is a public forum?
I'm not sure, but as a reorter, I could always just wait for the cease and desist order and comply if one ever comes.
I personally don't mind if a reporter from the Shasta area quotes me. If it was the New York Times, I'd care alot more cuz more eyes are going to see it.
Reporters do read what we say here, so it's good to keep that in mind.
Edit- also reporters always get it wrong, and the for profit thing, I might argue with that. I wish there was profit in this business.
Perhaps I should start making sh#t up like the guys on TV.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Let's not jump too hard on Mike, he's just trying to do his job, and at least he is making some effort to ask permission. A journalist friend of mine has pointed the following out to me about news operations:
I know it seems weird and unfair to non-reporters, but anything on the Internet is definitely fair game, even if you post a note requesting that it not be reprinted by the press. The rationale is that by writing something on a blog or on an unprotected facebook site, that you’ve already published that information to the world, and once you’ve done that, the press becomes obligated to report it. Asking them not to print it is definitely no guarantee that they won’t print it – especially if they can’t talk to you directly.
You don't have to like the above, but keeping that in mind is useful - Supertopo is public, and one should comment accordingly. And yes, I of course agree that it would be better if Mike picked the comments he likes and emails each of us individually for their use.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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No the comments belong to the individuals
It may be a lot less simple than that. If I, as a reporter, write in an article: "On the internet forum Supertopo, a poster using the name Dingus Milktoast said, "No the comments belong to the individuals," it is going to be pretty tough to bust me for a copyright violation.
There are some fairly easy-to-decide cases -- clearly violations or clearly not -- but there is also plenty of gray
D (news editor by trade)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Good to hear I'm not the only potential narc on old taco.
Ghost- you hiring? Or firing right now?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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can I quote you on that DMT?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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OK then since Mr Reporter asked, please don't use my comments in your article. Thanks in advance! Same to all the rest of you reporters.
Dingus! Don't do this to me. I've got the April issue due at the printer tomorrow and I was counting on some Dingus-on-ST quotes to make it clear to readers that the downturn in cargo volume at Shanghai Pudong Airport is just a temporary anomaly due to... Well, see, that's where it gets tough for readers to follow, and I reckoned that a couple of pithy Dingusisms on the joys of alpine rockclimbing in the California Sierras would totally put a Pullitzer on my mantel.
But it looks like it's not to be...
Ah, well. Back to work. Gonna have to explain the intricacies of trade flows in the Yangtze River Delta all on my own.
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Mike Slizewski
Social climber
Yreka, California
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Thanks, everyone, for your posts in response to mine. I was very sensitive in selecting the comments I chose for the article; none are directly or indirectly controversial. They are all informative, hopeful and compassionate. They are from the following posters: Phil B., fatrad, Edge, bluering, cleo, bergbryce, snaps 10, survival, Norwegian, rhyang, tom woods, zeta, mooch and Mark Rodell. I am contacting each individually by email for permission to quote them.
The rough draft of the article begins as follows:
"A March 28, 2010 9-1-1 call from a climber on Mount Shasta to report that he and his climbing partner were stranded just below the summit resulted in a rescue operation that, tragically, turned into (using search-and-rescue parlance) a 'retrieval' for one of the climbers.
"The following tells the story through chronological press releases issued by the Siskiyou County Sheriff-Coroner’s Office in Yreka, Calif. (courtesy Susan Gravenkamp), interspersed with comments from friends, fellow climbers and well-wishers gleaned from the thread, “Thoughts for some friends on Shasta,” on the Internet climbing forum SuperTopo (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1130949&tn=0&mr=0);."
I will post a link to the article when it is published (in about two weeks) in the 2010 issue of Siskiyou Magazine.
Again, my deepest condolences to all involved.
Mike Slizewski, Siskiyou Daily News managing editor, Yreka, Calif.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Please reply here is[sic] you would rather I did not use your comment(s).
Please do not use my comments.
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Mike Slizewski
Social climber
Yreka, California
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Thanks for your reply, rhyang. I won't.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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My condolences to the family and surviving friends. So sorry.
Here's a bit of perspective on the Shasta winds, in hopes it may ease you. Mt. Shasta gave me the scariest wind epic of my life. I was 21. John Fischer and I were on a winter ascent of the normal John Muir route. We camped on the summit plateau. During the night the wind rose. At dawn it blew away the stuffbag of our tent and one of the poles as we were breaking camp. We crawled to the summit. And then we commenced a frightening descent.
We would run downhill when we could, but when that freight-train sound roared again toward us, we would fall flat, laying on our ice axes dug in, hoping not to be blown away. Sometimes we crawled. It was so slow, we began to wonder if we would make it down that day.
When we got down, we learned that the ski bowl (the old one) had clocked 80 mph winds at 8:00 that morning. There's no telling how much stronger they were 7000 feet higher where we were.
Michael Zanger, the most knowledgeable old Shasta guide around, once told me of an ingenious way he measured summit winds from his living room window. He had found two old survey posts on Red Banks 100 yards apart. From home he could clock shreds of cloud moving by those posts and calculate wind speed. He had seen it reach 230 mph.
What I'm trying to say here is that when rising winds forced you to take shelter in the lee of those rocks on the summit plateau, don't doubt for a minute your judgment that the gusts themselves were creating a true emergency. It might be easy, from an armchair, to minimize what you were up against. But I've been up there, so close to where you were pinned down, and know how life-threatening those winds can be. You did well to survive it, and could not have known what might so suddenly compound your predicament.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Well, I hardly see the harm in allowing my few words of hope and well wishes to be included in an article.
I assume they will be used to demonstrate how a web forum can be used to pull a community together when a fellow climber is in peril, even those of us who have never met the person and live a continent away. Because of this thread, I was able to follow this story as it unfolded, with insider information, and it made me pull for both climbers to return safe and sound. I would want the same for me if the situation was reversed.
When push comes to shove climbers can be a fiercely tight group, and I think that is commendable.
I have forwarded my permission to the Magazine editor.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I have no problem being quoted.
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L
climber
Training for the Blue Tape Route on Half Dome
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^^^^ I luv ya, Dingus...and that's why. ;-)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dingus- you are right to question it.
I did a while ago, I forget why. So I figured I'd better be more straightforward on my posts, and avoid (but not eliminate) posting while drinking beer.
I think our local paper was looking here on something, maybe the DeVan search. People got quoted I think. It was something SAR related anyway. I decided to be more careful, but sometimes I lose it like anybody else.
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