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matt morgan
Trad climber
carson city, nevada
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Ron,
I have done 'the wall' awsome climb! Also enjoyed the link up of 'women of plantet latex' and 'grip master.' Thought it was cool that the first bolt had the route name, grade, and f.a. etched onto the bolt...
Matt
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Thanks for the bag ron.....picked it up today. Will use it wisely. Great pics of iron butte by the way. Wanted to climb the wall but no anchors on top. (bashed in) May head out this winter and do a little work there and fix it up a little......love projects. PM if you are heading out to Woodfords some time. Im off Friday
Look familiar? Sucks they tore it down
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Ron
Thats some crazy "nut" stacking....
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Ron
Thats some crazy stacking.....did you try it?
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oldcragster
Gym climber
WA
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Ron, I had forgotten all about that letter till I saw it just now. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure I don't have a copy. The 'taco' comes thru again. I don't get a lot of time to visit but today I saw that tr on Peter up bolting on Half Dome, replacing the old ones, and in summer heat too!
Other posts lately have me reminiscing. Saw photos of Mt. Sill, Swiss Arete. Climbed that in '80 or so, but my first serious climbing trip into the Sierras was with my 15 year old brother in August 1966, a month before joining the Air Force. We climbed the face left of the descent and watched Palisade School of Mountaineering guides and clients climb the Swiss Arete from our view already on the summit. I took slides, and these along with so many others I wish I still had, I burned years ago. Interestingly, because of the influence of the book I quoted in that letter you scanned...all the Zen thing of getting rid of attachments. What an idiot I was for doing that...of course the daily smoking of pot may have had an influence as well. Who knows, but I deeply regret not having so many memories on film. Don't mean to regress.
On a positive note, I recently heard from an old friend, Mark Haymond, not seen or heard from for 40 years, because of the posts here. Very cool! I'll try and come up with some yarns about Tahoe climbing soon Gene Drake
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Do all retired California mailmen got to Washington? or just the ones who were good?
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Gene Drake!
We miss you down here in Truckee.
Probably not memorable for you but I bought my first real rock shoes from you my first few days in town. I still have them, a pink pair of Scarpas.
You also taught my wife Sara to climb and I thank you for that, she's been one of my best partners on the rock.
Hope all is well in Wa. tell Cindy hello
James Colborn
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Man I spent some time climbing with Paul Crafton in the 80's. What ever happened to Tom Sullivan from Bob's Alpine on Stewart Street. I bought my first Smc Gear and forrest products there in 77'.
What about Gordon the brick layer....There are so many great and unique individuals responsible for the climbing scene in the Tahoe area it could warrant a Sundance movie.
Fortunate to have experienced the "real" climbers and regret the current attitudes.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Paul used to talk about belays on inverted LA's on aid routes at Shakespeare,,,,,
His Hat blew of on the Hogsback and he couldn't find it. I told him if we did another route I'd get his Hat( I already knew where it was), So I drug his ass up Red's Delight...Great Day and got his Hat back for him....
One time we went "dancing",(Big in the late 80's) in Reno, Paul and I won 1st and second place( with an assortment of different female dance partners) but he was capable of keeping me from some disease ridden snapper and got my Arse home safe. I love that man and hope all is well with him.
The first time I ran into Dan O ,Mikey I and I were doing laps on a peg board up clear creek in 82'...On our way home we see some guy hanging off (with one hand), a route at clearcreek (Dinosaur)...we thought he might need a rescue..HAHAHa. Mike and him went to the valley shortly after that.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Wow Ron, you had me thinking I might have retro'd a route there on Hogsback by accident. Upon closer inspection it turns out a buddy and I did a variation to your furthest left penciled in route. We did find two pins in a crack next to each other just above the ledge with the bushes low on the wall. I figured it must have been a belay for an alternate start to Reds, (which we promptly climbed). This is where our two routes combined for about 70ft or so before going their separate ways. We also did a more direct start to that first belay ledge. A couple bolts were placed in the roof section of our route, but thankfully that is just beyond where the two routes separated which is on what I believe is new ground.
Our route "Spam Sandwich, 5.8R" is shown in Red.
There is another route just to the left of my route evidenced by a pin in a shallow left facing corner about 15ft right of Knapsack. It's shown in Green but I have no idea where it started from. It's about 5.7 and has really good gear the whole way. F.A. unknown.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 16, 2010 - 09:03am PT
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Neat shot. You'd get a kick out of the T-ton placements I've made in the very weird features at T-wall and Sunset.
Lucky #7, looks close to the same one you've got a shot of...
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:33am PT
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That picture of Indian head looks like the crag on Wolf Creek Road. How many routes did you put up there, I semm to remember 5 or 6 and they looked hard.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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I guess the easier routes were on either side of the cave.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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Nice Dano shots Ron!
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Aug 25, 2010 - 02:41am PT
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LIghtning dream arete......Just looking at that route is amazing. A lot of work has gone into routes to the right of it. Way above my ability but damn nice to dream about it.....
The other climbs on the north face are freaking amazing as well.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Aug 25, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
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So all the West Facing overhung wall from hell is Sector 20? That place in itself would get crowds there if more "elite" climbers knew about it.
Beers on me when I get back from burningman.....
Shawn
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 29, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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Acrooss the street (hwy 89) from that, Ron, I spied a nice distinct formation on a hillside. Maybe one pitch at best. Looked cool though. Know what it is?
If you pull into the gas station there and look back at 89, you can see it up on the hill.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 29, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
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Somewhere around here I have a zillion pics of climbing around the tahoe area, from 1995 - 1999. They're all actual photos that need to be scanned.
Most of them are bouldering in Bliss State Park (almost identical granite to Buttermilks), which was just down the road 15 mins from where I used to live. Most days it was just me and maybe a couple other friends. Now I'm told it's gotten quite popular.
One of the Hatchett bros still lives in the area and has been opening new bouldering spots all over. He gave me info on finding one of them, up behind the landfill on the way to Truckee. Went once and didn't quite find anything too awesome, but found some pretty decent welded tuff rocks similar to the Old County boulders (another popular hang).
The Lycra Eliminator boulder (actually a TR of 5 pretty stout overhanging routes) is a forgotten classic spot. I have pics of that place too somewhere.
I miss that place.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 29, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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Well, I moved away 11 years ago, so I've only *heard* that Bliss has gotten popular. Back then, seeing anyone at all besides the group you came with was very uncommon, so the fact you saw anyone at all means something.
Anyway, that asteroid problem is something else, eh? Took me a little while to get it. Tricky heel lock right foot, then hold a grim finger tip sloper pinch right hand and cross over left. Taller climbers could probably just bump the right hand again. Wait until late in the day when the sun has gone behing the mountains to the west, being the key beta :)
We used to call that line "The Lobster" and "Vomit Comet". Long after the fact, someone told me it got a V7 grade, which I have a hard time believing. [spray] I've managed a handful of problems confirmed at that grade at Hueco and here in Utah and they seemed quite a lot harder [/spray]. I think V5+ is probably more accurate.
Lycra Eliminator is in the old yellow tahoe guidebook. It is in the Incline Village area, around the ski area IIRC. It's right among a cluster of houses. One great big very overhanging face. It has TR anchors at the top, which you will want to make use of, as a fall from anywhere would be grim. Easiest thing on it is 5.12 / V5.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 29, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
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"bjj, scan those puppies in and post em up!;-)"
I will. Right now I am just waiting for a partner to get here. I'm getting up off the couch for the first time in 7+ years. Just got back from REI with a shiny new pair of moccasyms and a chalkbag. Sold all my gear years ago, when I thought I was done climbing for good. Should have known better ;:
Wish me luck. If I don't hurt anything, I'll consider the day a success.
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