Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
"Soft" Montana OW...
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
Hey Jay when did you get all that hair? rating PFDH...if anyone has any doubts..
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
|
Kinda hard to trust the ratings from a dude that stalks and harass women.
I've got some stories to tell if you want to keep pushing the issue.
You should chose your friends more carefully Mojede.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
|
|
so what poor soul is gettin' on (or IN) Lucille this year at the sushifest?
wish I could be there...
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
|
I'll probably give it a go.
I mean it's only 12- now but I want Jaybro to belay so I have someone to cry too.
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
" probably give it a go.", right....Jaybro was an unique individual when he established this route, this is knott a phun Sunday afternoon outing.
This is an example of what someone dedicated to claustrophobic suffering and pain can establish.
Congrats Jaybro on such visionary efforts,...But these are knott to be practiced by the ordinary individual.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Ha ha, thx Mark!
Though I have seen the result of what you suggest and in some cases it just ain't pretty! But wtf? With modern pro its safe,sometimes excessively, if you get my drift....
Now this guy was pretty on it!!
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
I mispoke when I said .12b, and appologize. It suited my stlye well and I think being smaller helped ease the difficulties quite a bit, allowing me to chicken wing much sooner rather than armbarring. (I also had good invert and gear beta courtesy of my awesome partner.) Lucille is an amazing line and a very proud fa, congrats on that one jay, it certainly a masterpiece.
Goatboy, congrats on becoming such a good climber, getting into the best shape of your life and onsighting squat, that is sick; your girlfriend must have been proud holding the rope. Regarding your public slander about me, im afraid you're wrong. I've been working a ton since ive last seen you 3 years ago and have had the same consistant climbing partner for about 5 years now. No time for "stalking" or wharever. I'd appreciate you stopping with the lies as im not here talking sh#t about you and you are obviously trying to start something out of nothing. I wouldnt expect less of you unfortunatley. According to your posts, Florida must suck as your stuck on a climbing site slandering, while im packing to go climbing in vedauwoo (with the partner i ALWAYS make plans to climb with) for the next four days.
Hutch, I appreciate the "backing up", but I can speak for myself. I dont spend time on these sites much anymore due mostly to the negativity associated with it; simply put there is too much hate on something built for fun and sharing. I try to "climb more and post less". It seems to work for me and certainly is alot more fun.
Cheers,
Patrick
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Apology accepted, though it's kind of a smokescreen. As you know,it's not me you owe an apology, and so much more to,Patrick. You know about whom I'm speaking, and for what.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
Jul 2, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Regarding your public slander about me, im afraid you're wrong.
It's not slander if we can show the evidence involving the stalking and harassing.
Maybe Mojede can show you his Cease and Desist letter.
But hey if you think I'm wrong, take me to court.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
What are they up to this time? I wonder.....
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
I see the pot is boiling nicely here. I just got back from re-reading jaybro's write-up, http://widefetish.com/features/jays_lucille/jays_lucille.html A great story. I never climb awful-width, myself, but any route from 1988 has to be a least 2 or 3 letter grades harder now, right? Or that only applies to face and thin cracks?
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 11:29am PT
|
If the younger generation of climbers are not climbing harder than we did, BITD, then that would be the larger failure of our generation that we did not convey the possibility that what seemed impossible to us was within the reach of youth.
To have failed to fire their imagination, through our stories and our unmet aspirations and the wonder and joy of the adventure, and our encouragement (though crusty at times) would have been a greater defeat then to see the zenith of our accomplishments reduced to mere warmups.
I hope that if there is one constant in climbing, one invariant, that it will be the opportunity to push it forward into the realm of the impossible. The younger generation leading out from the paths we had made to that frontier.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
While a Bunch of them kids is pushing the limits in all directions there exist a certain vocal minority, not generally in their very first blush of youth, who see the world catching up to them faster than they had guessed it would and would rather count their excuses in public, live in the glory shadow of others, drag others down, etc, rather than actually go put something up themselves! Same as it ever was!
This old man though, I'm in the best shape of my life, a set of forty pull-ups yesterday. An eight mile trairun before dawn today..I can't keep up with killer elite but I'm pushing my own standards. That sagging middle-age of young climbers better wallow out of their self pity Post haste, lest they find their plums picked!
Thx Mccreel!
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
Jaybro, I can't tell from your description. Do you actually get inverted as shown in the female climbing it on this thread? Is that the crux section?
|
|
Les
Trad climber
Bahston
|
|
Damn, REALLY enjoyed reading Jaybro's account of the FA journey. The realization of any longstanding goal, hard fought and won, is a beautiful thing, especially when so eloquently documented.
And this right here, from Mr. Hartouni, is one of the finest comments ever posted in this or any other climbing forum:
"Jaybro's story Lucille stands as a chronicle of how a vision is morphed through obsession, and with dedication finally becomes something real.
The rating is really beside the point. It was a climb that came to us from the future... few climbs are like that, and fewer climbers are blessed with that opportunity and even fewer pull it off.
Thanks again Jaybro."
Leaving aside the stones being cast in this thread, stories like this are what forums like SuperTopo should aspire to.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Marty, I've done a lot of inverts but did not get upside down for this one. For average sized males this is not an invert, with one alleged exception. The woman in the photo, My good friend Pamela Shanti Pack, though probably the most accomplished Offwidth climber in the world bar none (sorry britts) is only five foot three and has to do it that way, because she doesn't fit across the the toe rail shoulder bridge that the rest (5?) of us have used. Anyone smaller than perhaps five seven may have to do it that way.
Well put Les, thnx! That, I think, is what climbing should all be about!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
Sheesh, Jaybro...40 pull-ups? Last time I did 40 pull-ups must've been 30 years ago...and it was in a dream.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Were you played by Dick Cilley? Richard Gere?
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
Goat--that Cease letter was taken as seriously as The Two Stooges and Stoogette...
C'mon, anyone can send one and expect nothing to happen--which is what transpires the majority of the time. Pre-Poli Sci freshmen are taught that.
I don't need to associate myself with certain people--period, and easy to do.
The narcissists in the crowd will know what I'm talking about, right guys and gals?
Feeding the Beast here, but it's all for laughs, right Goat?
edit: MY lawyer reads these posts, as well--nothing but laughs for us.
Yeah, get on Lucille--THAT would be fookin' hilarious...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!