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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Sep 14, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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Nice to see the B-Y still draws respect and admiration instead of the standard clamoring by the most recent climbing generations about how the route needs to be "upgraded to 'modern' standards of sport climbing".
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klaus
climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
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Sep 14, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
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Erik Sloan can not free climb. Even if he were to add 1000 bolts to it he will never be able to free climb it.
Maybe he can power drill bolts to make an aid practice climb, like he did at Church Bowl, so even dwarfs can reach the bolts? That sounds like his style.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches..
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
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Ron, Thanks for posting that up!
did he already do Peace?
Peace
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:48pm PT
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It seems Lynn Hill has climbed the route,
leading at least two pitches.. She climbed the first 2 pitches and then bailed - see G_Gnome's post in the previous page of this thread.
Still, those are very serious pitches.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 15, 2016 - 12:12am PT
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I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls. Seems like a classical "the leader must not fall" route. I guess even the hardpeople get psyched out by big runouts and suspect knobs.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2016 - 01:13am PT
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I was surprised to read upthread that it wasn't until the 5th (?) ascent that it was first done no falls. I think you misunderstood a little.
The FA was without falls. [Edit: I was wrong: Bachar took a 50 foot fall when a knob broke above the 2nd bolt on p2. See posts below.]
And it had hangs on hooks to place the bolts on the first day. (Redpointed on day 2).
The next 2 on the list were attempts.
The 4th on the list was the second ascent.
1981,8,,1,John Bachar,Dave Yerian,"first ascent, over 3 days, no falls or hangs other than to place 4 of the bolts from hooks"
1982,,,attempt,Wolfgang Gullich,Thierry Renault,"Gullich fell 30' on p1, Renault fell 30' and 60' on p2"
1982,,,attempt,Alan Nelson,Rob Oravetz,"Oravetz fell on p2, ""Path of the Master"" article"
1983,,,2,Steve Schneider,Scott Frye,"Schneider led all pitches, no falls"
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Sep 15, 2016 - 04:38am PT
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More milestones:
Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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More milestones:
Alan Carne (55 years young) this year, Tom Briggs (17 years old) in the 90s. Any older or younger?
Nice to hear. I met Alan last October at Medlicott. My partner and I were headed up to climb You Asked For It and Alan was working the BY on TR solo. We were the only parties there that day.
Bachar did indeed fall on the FA when he broke a knob on the second pitch. According to his account in his Alpinist article it was a 50 foot fall.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 21, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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Jan did it at age 59, don't think either of the two fell, but he can add to that if he wants.
I was under the impression from the Cole Gibson video that Andrew Rock led every pitch on their ascent. I was also under the impression that it was a no falls ascent for both climbers.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 28, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
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well, just got a text from my son. Led all pitches of the B-Y this afternoon. That kid is the real deal.
From his text:
He (son John pictured here) actually looks a bit like John Bachar
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jul 28, 2018 - 08:04pm PT
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Congrats to him! What a thing to do! I wonder what he thought of it..
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 28, 2018 - 10:25pm PT
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"hard and scary". "12a". "tricky route finding"
He didn't get the onsight. Took a 20 footer when he got off the optimum path on the second pitch.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 28, 2018 - 10:39pm PT
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Pretty strong and bold.
Fact - today’s ethics would credit Steve Schneider with the FA, with Bachar only having aiding it and placed the bolts.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 29, 2018 - 09:22am PT
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Congratulations Mike Bolte, that is an amazing accomplishment for a young guy!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 29, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
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John Bolte's ascent was only one week after being blinded by a close encounter with a lightening bolt. This is what Mike Bolte wrote about John last week, "Call from John. Topped out on Conness up in the Yosemite high country to big thunder clouds this afternoon. Got down to where he thought he was OK when a lighting bolt(e) slammed in five feet from him. Blind and deaf for 30 minutes then hiked on out..."
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jul 29, 2018 - 01:11pm PT
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Mike, is this the same young man that you used to stop by for breakfast with at TPR?
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