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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jan 25, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
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Wow nice send and cool name! I'm gonna try it next time i'm up there. Looks awesome.
I was also at woodson saturday, gave starving in stereo a few tries. Damn that thing's hard.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
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Slapstick is around the corner, to the left of the Woodward Arete.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 25, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
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i've been keeping tabs on that problem for decades. i don't think it's been done before...pretty sure this is a first. at least, it is in my book.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 25, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
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dude, it was a bummer getting robbed like that. hate it when that happens.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 25, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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I agree with Bob, its a FA in my book too and i think i made that point. Nonetheless there are times when someone has to play the devils advocate. I have been exploring the back country for close to 30 years and during that time put up 132 climbs that i felt were worth naming and rating, and climbed hundreds of other problems that had never been touched. I know that because I either literally hacked them out of the bush or they were too loose to have been climbed yet.
My point is i know what unclimbed rock looks like. What i call potato chips are the thin detached flakes you can brush off with your hand, and which would be removed by any passage over that surface. Its a fact that thin face holds will break, but thats another matter.
I dont care how good one may be at their craft, there is always somebody better out there. I remember in the mid 80's JB Tribout and some other froggies blew through woodson one afternoon. I heard about it and tried to get off work early but couldnt, and they were gone by the time i got out there. Nobody saw them climb but the stuff they had chalked up blew me away. There was chalk all the way up line after line that nobody had considered, that looked impossible, and they were clearly just bouldering around. One mans FA is sometimes another mans boulder problem, theres just no way of knowing who or what the hill has seen.
Peace bro, looking forward to meeting you
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 26, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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I apologize that the tone of my post put you in the position that it did. I've slowly been learning that I would often times do well to let some posts sit for periods of time before submitting them, unfortunately I can still screw it up. The content of a post may be valid but thought still needs to be given to when, where, and how it is presented as well as how it may potentially be interpreted, especially in an annoymous environment where many people truely don't know each other and can easily reach conclusions that weren't intended.
Suffice it to say that my intent was not to question either your abilities or your knowledge. And I can understand how it appeared otherwise.
I would like to comment on one point from your post. It is also in my opinion an absolute fact that no matter how good someone is there is always someone better out there. Regardless. It may even be that the person isn't consistently as good but is able to raise to occasions, or perhaps is better in some specialized area. We all have our potential and when it is acheived it can be pretty impressive. If we don't acknowledge this positively it is usually a sign of vanity. And if we judge we must expect to be judged back.
I am under no illusions, or delusions, about being someone I'm not. And even if I did happen to be somebody, it wouldn't mean that someone else wasn't.
Sorry for taking you there bro.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 26, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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yeah, maybe. but ron may be exaggerating a bit. everything at woodson that's visible from the road, and a lot that isn't, has been eyeballed and tried if the line looked the least bit worthy. i'm trying to envision just what such a dervish of new-route activity would look like -- i mean, exactly which lines on which boulders? in my mind i'm walking up the road and damn if pretty much everything that appears possible has been done, or at least chalked up as a candidate for getting done.
moreover, if j.b. tribout had come to woodson and sent some new masterwork testpiece, or even some chosspile that was merely hard, i think word would have gotten out. you've got two possibilities: 1) he was getting a tour from a local, meaning anything he had done would have become part of the oral tradition, or 2) he was not getting squired around which means he probably never got more that 50' off the road. especially in just an afternoon.
I remember in the mid 80's JB Tribout and some other froggies blew through woodson one afternoon. I heard about it and tried to get off work early but couldnt, and they were gone by the time i got out there. Nobody saw them climb but the stuff they had chalked up blew me away. There was chalk all the way up line after line that nobody had considered, that looked impossible
i bet ron was wearing pink polka dot lycra when he wrote that...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 26, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
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so the socal scene is as warm and friendly as it ever was.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 26, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
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so the socal scene is as warm and friendly as it ever was.
feel the love, baby!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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With regard to Raindance: The earlier assesment of the loose nature of some of the holds was correct. The handholds at the crux are no longer there.
I tried it last Sunday. Looking back at the picture of Dan that was posted earlier, there was already only one handhold remaining in the vicinity of his hands (the left one) when I started, and that hold was not solid.
On my third attempt the hold broke (the prior attempts were aborted as the edge flexed), leaving a partial hold. On the next attempt the remainder of it came completely off as I tried to step up.
It may still be possible, I don't know. But at a minimum I believe it to now be substantially more difficult. Others can make the final decision on that for themselves.
These kinds of things are usually just part of the game when it comes to this type of climbing, and as such don't require any explanation. However, it seems best to be upfront with this rather than remaining silent and letting people wonder what happened to the problem, or perhaps incorrectly assigning blame.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
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I tried it last Sunday. Looking back at the picture of Dan that was posted earlier, there was already only one handhold remaining in the vicinity of his hands (the left one) when I started, and that hold was not solid.
On my third attempt the hold broke (the prior attempts were aborted as the edge flexed), leaving a partial hold. On the next attempt the remainder of it came completely off as I tried to step up.
. . . .
These kinds of things are usually just part of the game when it comes to this type of climbing, and as such don't require any explanation. However, it seems best to be upfront with this rather than remaining silent and letting people wonder what happened to the problem, or perhaps incorrectly assigning blame.
You just need some Sika and a putty knife.
Hell, I can't take this anymore.
When I come down, I'm bringing a truckload of Sac-crete. To begin with, I'm going to fill in all the wide cracks.
Or at least the dudes I pick up outside Home Depot will fill them in, while I provide the vision.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
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feel the love, baby!
no glove, no love.
heh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
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you be the judge!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
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everyone is gonna be there!
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 01:31am PT
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me exaggerate? aw bob-o ya hurt my widdle feelings an you know how sensetive i yam, sniff. Tell ya what, at the woodson deal you can follow me around and be my "friend" and ill even give ya a beer if ya beg real good and lick your own balls like a dog for me. And i would like my tights back please, i have the matching underoos.
Its true tho boob, but it not like masterpieces galore were churned out, it was that EVERYTHING around painted boulder was chalked. Every hump, rib, corner, edge, flake in sight. Thats no exageration, they climbed every freaking feature, and lots of the stuff they obviously did id never seen done. There wasnt even chalk on uncertainty, so it looked like they had a short amout of time and just climbed where they found the first flat ground and concentration of obvious problems. That was a wednesday, by saturday their had chalk melted in the morning dew and no sign of their visit remained.
How many visits like that has woodson seen? We will never know.
Bob didnt i give you 5 bucks so you wouldnt expose my lies? I got another Lincoln for ya when we meet up. If anyone asks tell em "Ron climbs good, Ron never lies". Can ya do that? geez.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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henny, were good man dont worry about it, i never get a chance to spew anymore. Fact is, out of those 132 routes maybe 10 are something youd take a date to'
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 01:46am PT
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here i am cleaning my latest woodson test piece, at an undisclosed location
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REIGN 1
Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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Way to run it out! hahaha
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c22
Boulder climber
Poway, Ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Haha, that's fine, that thing was going to come off eventually. I'm down to try and do it anyway though haha. There is another micro crimp out right that hasn't and won't break, so i think it will still go. Also, Rain Dance was essentially a two move problem. Almost everyone I've shown it can get to the flake, the business was taking it from there to the top, not to diminish anything, it just bore mentioning.
The climb is certainly not on the best rock, but it had some cool moves and it's just one of those things that looks so unlikely that it just has to be done.
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