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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Nov 16, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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This is just so badass and inspirational on so many levels. Thanks!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 17, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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So, are you still recovering, or are you already back in training for Free Rider? Will the training routine change over the winter?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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I'm pretty recovered right now. it took about three weeks.
I'm going to start lifting and doing the bike training on Jan 1st. I need to build a climbing wall in the garage also.
I plan on spending a bit of time down at Smith this spring, trying to get back into 5.12d shape.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 20, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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Seems like HR would be about ripe for a gym at this point given it seems like so much more of a year-round community than in the late 80's and early 90's.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 30, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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Mark,
You are rockstar!
I've known it since we cragged back in the old days and really want to thank you for your continued inspiration for all us old guys trying to walk in your footsteps.
Be safe and keep it up,
Spencer
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Nov 30, 2009 - 10:21pm PT
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Thanks Mark
Inspirational read.
You are Bad Ass!
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Erik of Oakland
Gym climber
Oakland
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Dec 13, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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"Recovery.
Protein Power, Glucosamine and Chondroitin pills. Two beers a day, without fail."
MH is my new hero.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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It was pitch black, there was no way I could even see the next pitch outside the bubble of light my headlamp cast. I looked down at the 70 feet of slack at my feet and looked up at the 5.10 pitch above me.
First off, congrats on your accomplishment. I'm curious if it would have made much difference if you had done a daylight trial run up the first section to be climbed in the dark?
Did you get back into shape for another niad?
Edit: I guess I should read more carefully huh?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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thanks for the bump! nice work Mark!
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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So Mark, comparing how you felt during and after the NIAD with other El Cap multi-day camping and hauling adventures, how do you rate the toll on the body and mind between the two ascent styles, i.e. faster, lighter, no hauling, and single long day versus slower but with hauling, heavier rack, more logistics, more overall time exposed, back-to-back work days with not so much sleep, etc. ?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Thanks,
zBrown,
John and I had climbed to Dolt a few days before and it did make a positive difference.
No, not another NAID yet, I have two partners who I want to do it with but I don't foresee having time for the next couple of years, I have numerous aid walls planned. Maybe I'll lead the whole thing in a day in 2016 when I'm 60!
Triple,
The NIAD, leading the whole thing, was quite mentally tiring for me. When I was younger I used to solo a fair bit and running out 5.10 cracks doesn't bother me too much but now, I can still run out 5.10 but short roping every pitch was mentally draining. I look back at it now, three years later and think, "dang, I'm glad that I did that then because I don't know if I could do it now".
The NIAD and my other recent El Cap route, the solos and with partners are all different. The NIAD was fun because it was all about speed and not the details, the other routes are fun because they are just the opposite. I have all sorts of tricks to lessen the brutality of walls so at the end of a long wall I don't really feel too bad. Having porters hump my stuff down really helps. After the Shield, where John and I carried our own stuff down, I'm sure I expended 1/4 of the total effort for the whole experience, on the descent.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Just read this for the first time.
Mark, I hope I have a third of your energy and drive when I'm your age. I'll be there soon, as I am 45 now.
The biggest problem I have now, other then motivating myself, is injury.
I think my favorite part of your TR, was how you brought a commercial coffee machine with you, classic!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 16, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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bump because it's cool and it's climbing!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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In case we ever get too old to remember how to climb, it's good that there are younger (and prettier) folks around to remind us (apologies Mark - I'll take it down if nobody laughs):
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Can you imagine us all, sitting in the old folks home, watching climbing vids of the latest hot kids! That'll be funny as hell.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 18, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Mark- a question...
Since you were not going for the Nose record, why was the PDL or "HUGE EFFING LOOP" method used whilst shortfixing?
Many teams seem to hit the same mark you did for time, without using that technique.
Would one piece and a grigri or clove hitch off a belay have been too much to handle?
Honest questions, obviously you are MARK HUDON, but for the regular joe's ot there...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Good question, in hindsight, I don't know why I did that. I think I was hoping beyond hope that I'd get it in less than 10 hours and that I needed to go as fas as I could.
My feeling was that if I used a Grigri or a knot, at some point, I'd have to release that knot or grigri and wait for a moment till the belayer pulled in all the slack. You'd be in that same danger of a big fall for a few moments.
Even still, I really didn't worry about it too much. I never ran up a pitch willy nilly, I was always soloing in my mind and inspected every hand jam and foot placement. I was always climbing with the thought that I could hold myself on any one hand hold if another appendage popped.
Still though, at short roping's very root, merely getting off the anchor and up 25 feet or so, placing a piece and sitting on it till you're on belay has it's advantages.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 18, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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Thanks mark, good to hear about the mindset. Way out of my league.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Peggy, Ellen and I are up in fire tower south of Mt Hood right now!
As I was hiking up here I was thinking that the climb would have taken three or four hours longer if I had waited for a belay on every pitch. In a couple spots, I finished or was near finished with the pitch before John even got to the anchor!
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