disintegrating rock

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Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2009 - 02:05am PT
This evening I was doing a relatively easy boulder
on an overhanging wall, on good solid Dakota Sandstone,
and the rock is smooth, strong, with clean,
incut holds. No possibility that anything could break off.
In all my years of climbing, I could not imagine anything
even in the vicinity could be loose.

Suddenly a whole sheet of rock several inches deep
simply sheared off. I went straight to the bottom.
At first I thought I might have broken my back,
as I landed hard on a big boulder. But when I stood up
my right femur hurt worse. I gathered myself quickly
and left for home with my partner. Slowly as the evening
has progressed, my femur, or the area in the middle of
my upper leg, has increased in pain. I can't walk.
This is really severe
pain, and it feels as though I might have actually broken
my femur. I sit here on the living room couch, unable to
lie down. Lots of swelling. I guess in our old age
sometimes we get so strong
we simply crush the rock....

Pat Ament
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:10am PT
Pat,

You even have a way of making this event poetic.
I've been waiting to see something from you.
I wasn't hoping for a broken femur. Maybe a crack?
Hang in there man. You'll be wanting it looked at soon if it's really hurt.
Got any decent painers?? Beside wine??
Good luck.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:11am PT
Well, modern climbing jargon has it that someone 'crushes' a climb or problem...

In my case, most likely by landing on it.

Agree with Tami - Pat, get it checked in the AM, sooner if it's bad. Hopefully just bad bruising, but you never know. And don't forget that both Chris Jones and Yvon Chouinard broke their legs bouldering.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:26am PT
Pat-

What more can go wrong?
Truly a time of testing.

Email to follow.

jstan

climber
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:50am PT
Pat, we have not yet heard all the great lies you have to tell.

Take it easy.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 16, 2009 - 07:33am PT
hey there pat, say, i been trying to get over to see what the "heck" disintegrating rock was... :O

oh my... but i know see.. it sadly means that you are hurt... :(

please let us know how you are, soon as you can...

say, does anyone nearby your place, know that you may be still roughing it through this?? sure hope not.... :(

we all wait, with great concern to see if you are well...
god bless, i will be praying, too...
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Oct 16, 2009 - 08:15am PT
I can't offer any better advice. Just another wish that it all turns out well.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Oct 16, 2009 - 10:52am PT
When even the Dakota goes, what's left?

I hope your injury isn't serious--
let us know, once the dust has cleared.


couchmaster

climber
pdx
Oct 16, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
This was my last attempt at yanking the top off a boulder.


When it gave way (the top of the boulder I was yanking on just sheared right off, that's right, the entire top just sheared and popped off) I flipped over backwards. Witness said I came down from @ 15 feet and the knee hit a sharp rock. This ended a debate on who was going to lead. I followed Kyle Silverman up the climb after he led it. Kyle then cracked me up when he named it "Wounded Knee" LOL!. It was real real bloody by the time I'd packed up, done the hike out and driven home. The blood pooled in my shoe and both the sock and entire lower pant leg were close to 100% red when I walked in and my surprised wife took a gander at my sorry ass.

As it cooled off, I then eventually couldn't walk at all as the soft tissue was crushed. 6 or 8 stitches sewed it up, but ruined me for climbing in the valley. On the bright side, I did get to be camp bitch.

Pretty much screwed my climbing for @ 3-4 months.

Good luck Pat! (Doctor doctor doctor!)
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Oct 16, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
Damn, that sucks.

It's a reminder that even a lifetime of knowledge about the rock can only stack the odds more in our favor. But I bet every once in a very blue moon, even the most crooked Vegas joint loses money.

Thanks for the reminder, and heal up soon.

GO
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
I sat upright all night, couldn't move, couldn't sleep,
now very tired and trashed. Thanks for a lovely phone call
from Jan from Japan, keeps me going. I must find a way,
I guess, to get to an x-ray machine. John Stannard, since
when do I tell lies. My stories are true, friend.

Pat
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 16, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
best wishes Pat.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 16, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
Get to a Doctor!
jan must be as sweet a soul as he seems.

"Wounded knee," haha!
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. DO GO TO THE DOCTOR!
If you need help to get there ask someone. Delay is not in you favor!
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
Concerning the phone call, I can report that however screwed up his leg may be, his mind is working as well as always. No concussion anyway. Now if he will just get that leg x-rayed..............
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
Oct 16, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
I just finished "How to be a Master Climber".

Lesson 7: Get medical attention when needed to allow for more climbing in the future.

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Oct 16, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
Sending good solid vibes to you.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
Doing a little better. I limped slow as a snail,
I mean two-inch steps (have found if I keep
my leg perfectly staight I can put a tiny puff
of weight on it while I hope the good one forward
a few inches) to my doctor's office. She was gone,
and her assistant was as sympathetic as a... can't
think of a suitable image, but said she could
not fit me into her busy schedule and that I would
have to go to the urgent care office at the new
Fruita hospital, which in my mind went kaa-zing,
and I could see the six hundred dollar charge, so I
decided I will wait one more day and see if I keep
improving. The pain has subsided, as long as I don't
make any fast moves (haha). I appreciate everyone's
concern. I need- to be well now, as I am going to Colorado
Springs to do some editing on the new film Sunday-Tuesday.

Strangely the fall was captured in high definition,
because I was bouldering for a little section of my
new film, and I am considering keeping it in the film,
but I'm not sure why. It's not a graceful, proud moment
to see me bite the dust so confincingly. It did happen pretty
naturally, nothing staged, and it's weird to watch... an old man
go ker-thud from above an overhang down onto the ground.
Not a good thing for we old people
to fall. Our bodies (well at least MY body) can't take
the kind of abuse an earlier version of myself probably
would have shrugged off. Ohh, the days I fell off freight
trains at forty miles an hour (it happened once on the edge
of Sacramento).

But it is good to hear from my super(topo) friends again.
I had been kind of inactive of late, trying to finish
a book, finish a film, and put my life together...

I don't know what Jan was talking about, with respect to
the sharpness of my mind. She (I stress "she," for someone
who thought she was a he) I haven't slept much at all and
was basically incoherent, I think, when we spoke. Maybe
that's preferable?

Good wishes to all,

Pat
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Oct 16, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
Holy contusion, Pat--that sounds just awful. I agree that you probably ought to have the thing looked at. You might have a break, blood clots forming, etc., etc.

I hope that I have now cheered you up sufficiently.

Curt
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Oct 16, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Pat,
Get medical care. Drive up to Canada if needed.
Get well soon.
Erik
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