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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 14, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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Here is my old pal Chuck with his oh so last century rack.
The few springy things he borrowed from me.
And with his gweeder.
That dudes got chops.
From raunch and roll to flawless, fret-less Classical Spanish and everything in between.
If it has strings Chuck can make it sing.
AND...
The man can stack.
And stack.
And stack.
Chuck can stack nuts on lead as fast as noobs can plug a cam.
And I would trust them more too.
What's up Chuck?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 14, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Ya need a redo on postin those photo's Phil.
I saw on the Alpinist website that you're going to have some written words in the special Red Rocks section....congrats! I've been to the local shop but haven't seen a copy of #28, have they shipped yet?
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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Yup should be on the shelves already or any day.
Wonderful Bachar remembrance.
And a farewell from Cassin.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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And a Philo cartoon, to boot.
Good issue.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Cool pics, no springs or mechanical thingy's to go wrong, just proper placement using static physics, kind of like the proper placement of your foot or hand! Now that's what I call Old School. (What is it with these old harcore's and their impish grins, did he learn that from Becker?)
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Brian Hench
Trad climber
Anaheim, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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On the topic of stacking, it would seem to me that the older straight-sided stopper designs would be more suited to stacking than the newer curved designs. Would anyone care to comment on that? Has anyone even tried to stack Wallnuts, for example?
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Yeah Ghost the 'toon was a real unexpected surprise.
Hey MossMan Chuck always had that sh#t eatin' grin. Long before he and Bryan linked up Chuck already looked like he'd just gotten away with a raid on the cookie jar.
Chuck was one of the first modern climbers to open up Escalante canyon. Many, many times his desperate first ascent would end when the rope ran out. Long before Friends and BigBros Chuck would stack tube chocks and hexes and rap to terra firma. Often the stack would fall out when unloaded and wiggled. Nerves of steel and balls of titanium. A very talented and immensely powerful man.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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Chuckles on lead.
And one more stack for the load.
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Brian Hench
Trad climber
Anaheim, CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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That last one is clever. He's basically taking a flared placement and making it work by using the nut to improve the contact with the rock, rather than simply making the combination wider.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Hold please for a seperated at birth photo...
I got just the guy, but can't post up now...
maybe later... if memory holds
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 14, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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Looks like a character in the best sense of the word. Used to do lots and lots of stacking, not much anymore since using HB Offsets and cams. Still do a lot of natural pro however.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Picture #1: Up Chuck
Picture #2: Chuck off.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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here is a link to Chuck's music business.
Check it out and listen to some music.
http://www.chuckgrossman.com/
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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Is he any relation to Steve?
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 09:36am PT
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No, I don"t believe he is.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
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And bomber they are!
Here is another Grossman stack done one handed.
In fact all these stacks were done one handed.
At least it takes him two hands to play the guitar.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 18, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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I wanna hear how he freed Megapump at Escalante.
Was anybody there? Accounts?
That thing looks pretty sustained.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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In his prime Chuck was a total beast. His arms were bigger than my legs.
There should be little doubt of his capacity to climb Megapump and harder BITD.
This is a stack I tried one handed.
It is Oh Kay but nothing like Grossman's.
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perswig
climber
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Oct 18, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Arcane alchemy. (One-hand placements? Holy crap.)
We should all practice this stuff once in a while.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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Chucks a freak. He has master guitarist's fingers so he can attain all manner of weird contortions.
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