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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 12, 2005 - 02:18pm PT
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So in debating over which packs to carry on big routes like the RNWF of Half Dome in a day, or perhaps smaller or larger routes like the East Butress of El cap. Steck Salathe or Nose in a day.....Hoping to do astroman next fall also. Just curious how your pack/essentials/water selection would vary between those routes?
Should we carry one pack or 2? As in the leader carries a medium size camelbak with essentials like shell, e blanket, food, led light etc. Or we cram everything into the seconds pack and go for it? Does this also depend on whether the second is jugging or not (half dome). What about hauling the pack when is that valuable? It seems like any kind of hauling, even with a small diameter cord would slow yah down overall...yeah?
And of course the biggest question.... would 3 liter bladder of water work for big routes? or 6 liters perhaps total? How have you guys made these calls?
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Sep 12, 2005 - 02:43pm PT
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I bring 3 liters of water on V's, i also use one of those camelback backpack doomahickies. Kinda scary when you cant see how much water your using.
~ty~
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Sep 12, 2005 - 02:53pm PT
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wait, you mean most guys that climb astroman don't post on supertopo to ask how much water they'll need for the east but of el cap?
leave both packs in the car.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Sep 12, 2005 - 02:54pm PT
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For water the big question is there sun and/or heat. In the valley it seems if it's cloudy and cool you can climb all day with 1 liter, but if it's hot and sunny you can bring a gallon and still be wasted.
I'm a big believer in a small pack for the leader with water, clothes, headlamp. In case something happens and the leader can't get to the second you need survival gear on you.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Sep 12, 2005 - 03:10pm PT
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For a VI, I'd bring a small/medium haulbag and haul it. I've done the Trip and ZM like that and thought it was best. Ammon hauls on his climbs too.
Some guys are bringing a ledge now if they climb in a team of 3. I don't like this as it promotes crashing/bonking/sleeping.
That said my stratagy of bag hauling may or may not suck on the salathe. I only have done sh#t on the steep side.
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Doug Hemken
climber
Madison, WI
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Sep 12, 2005 - 03:14pm PT
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One pack or two depends upon who you are climbing with, and what your respective strengths are. I have one partner for IVs where I do all the leading and he carries one monster pack. On the other end of things, I have been severely frustrated and humiliated by trying to shoulder too much of a load as second!
There is no generic answer to your question.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 12, 2005 - 03:47pm PT
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I've gotten up a number IVs and Vs in a day. Unless the weather is perfect, I've always crammed what I could into a Bullet pack, which is pretty small. The second usually carries this on their back, but on the more difficult pitches, we haul.
Hydrate like crazy before the climb, carry what water you can. A few good eats, LED lights fer sure, some approach/descent footwear. A couple of shells for wind/cold. Lighter==faster, except if you get dehydrated.
While we usually carry a second cord for hauling (and possibly retreating), I have mixed feelings about going too thin for that second line. My buddy has a 5-mil that just turns into a tangled mess every time we break it out. It sure coils small, but it sucks for hand-over-hand hauling. I've been going with a thin (7-mil) dynamic line. That way if something happens to your lead line (like having it get stuck while pulling it off a rap), you still have a line you can lead on.
My hat's off to those that do VIs in single pushes...
:- k
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