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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2005 - 03:16pm PT
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Hey all, lately here in AK there have been massive bolt wars going, and one aspect of this animosity is bolts placed for highlines. Apparently slacklining is deemed by a few oldschool hardmen to be unworthy of permanent protection, and these folks are chopping every highline bolt they can find. I'm wondering what the rest of the climbing world thinks about fixed protection for the purpose of highlining, and since this site is a good sample of real climbers, I figured I'd post up here.
When I walked the Monkey Face in Smith Rock, it seemed to be widely accepted and most people we saw climbing nearby cheered us on. Around here, I get threatened, and bolts get pulled. What is the consensus among you all?
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Slacklining is lame. Gen-ex tattoo fad meets X-games. BORING...I think I need an umbrella... spray shower imminent...LOOK AT ME LOOK AT ME LOOK AT MEE NOW ITS FUN TO HAVE FUN BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW HOW...You probably did it just for the video "footy", am I wrong? You wouldn't be spraying (about Monkey Face) without "proof", would you? Still, never a good reason to deface the rock.
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spyork
Sport climber
Fremont, CA
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Real climber? Wow, I wish I was.
Since you live in Wasilla, you know where Palmer is...
I used to be a real sodbuster out in Palmer back in '75. I was tall for 14 so my boss had me driving trucks and cutting and rolling sod 60-80 hours a week. Sum' bitch never paid me OT! Oh well, at least I learned a lesson.
Steve
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Fixe triplex. Take them with you. Maybe even put a pebble in the hole and you'd never see it.
Where are you setting these lines? Seward Highway? Bolts everywhere already.
Obviously there are some place where there should not be bolts but removing them just because you don't believe in slacklining is pretty lame, sour grapes? Do they pry them out and fill the holes, or just chop them and leave the stud and show it's all about thier ego?
I'd go with the triplex in an area where there are bolts already get some mat-su nuggets and not worry about it.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Really climbing has nothing to do with slacklining, other than the stuff you need to do it. Those codgers should back off, this is out of their domain.
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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 05:20pm PT
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Fet: I have to assume these guys are filling holes, I haven't actually made it back to look at their handiwork. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt there.
About the triplex: can you reuse the same bolt again after removing it? I don't want to have to shell out 25 bucks every time I want to walk a highline. For some of you this may be acceptable, I understand, but I have no income. ;)
And no, the Highway is a chosspile with no options for highlines. The line I rigged that was chopped was in Hatcher Pass, and there's another on the Kenai Penninsula that has people riled up again. These are the only two highlines I've ever heard about in the entire state, and both have got people angry. I'm just working to find a solution that's acceptable.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Yeah they're reusable.
Maybe you can find a spot somewhere where no one climbs, then no worries.
Maybe string a line under the massive bridge on the way to McCarthy :-)
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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2005 - 06:02pm PT
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The triplex seems like a viable option. I'll check it out. As for bridges, the thought has occured more than once, so it may happen sometime. Thanks for the input!
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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