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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
rockbum
Big Wall climber
cayucos, california
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 15, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Has anybody been up the arches since the slide? we want to use it to get to south face of north dome.
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eskimo
Trad climber
san jose, ca
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Sep 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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We took a look at it from the valley this weekend, and there were folks climbing and rapping down. The chunk of rock that came loose is to the left of the rap route.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Sep 15, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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Are you planning on doing the South Face of North Dome?? Its only 5.7 (Yea right) and a way classic trad climb!
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rockbum
Big Wall climber
cayucos, california
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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Radish, have you done south face? Supertopo says 5.8 and at that I'm not worried but any beta would be cool.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sep 15, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Old Dad 5.7.....You WILL sweat. & get a bit "occupied".
Super route, though.
Ya know, I heard that RA was actually out of the fall zone, this
Time.
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ali g
Trad climber
jersey, channel islands uk
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Sep 16, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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hey there, climbed royal arches a few days ago, also serenity crack, both ok, spoke with rangers and nps guys, all of which says its ok to climb. had no problems on the route.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Sep 16, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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Rockbum.....Yes, I have done the South Face and have many found memories of that Valley Classic. Its up there with all the big "Classic routes as far as I'm concerned and don't know why more don't do it. It starts almost at the same place as Crest Jewel does and that may be why, and it also takes trad gear, unlike Crest Jewel. We hiked in from Porcupine flat and camped at the very top of North Dome. Sometime in the middle of the night we were thinking about daisying in with our bivy sacks blowing in the 40 mile an hour winds, but would do it again. The first two pitches are up the dihedral and then if you go to far, you come to a bunch of rap slings where people bailed we guessed. Below that, in an inobvious almost vertical spot, you leave the dihedral and climb out onto the face, that has holds and go over and up. Then its pitch after pitch of some off width, some face with polish, some crack. Alittle bit of it all and after 8 pitches your loving your life with a view thats one of the best in the Valley. Please send us your TR when you get back, with pics.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 16, 2009 - 02:42am PT
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I finally did the South Face of North Dome in June 2007 with 4 other friends. It's an interesting line.
I have photos of every pitch, but photobucket has lately been holding my other photos hostage (trying to extract ransom), and I haven't figured out how I want to work around that yet.
No true offwidth on it, but a few sections of flaring chimney at the base of the upper corner where it's nice to drag your pack below you on a long sling. Much of the upper corner has polished gold rock for your feet; originally rated 5.7, but felt more like 5.8+ at times.
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JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
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Sep 16, 2009 - 08:42am PT
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A few pictures of SFND from 2004. This was my first climbing trip to the Valley so the memories are pretty sharp!
Pitch 2
Pitch 4
Somewhere on the upper laybacks. All photos are Karl's.
Trip report here.
John
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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