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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
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After a successful climb of Mt. Conness last year (Up the W. Ridge and down the N. Ridge) Team R^3 (Rick Batha, Robin Batha, and Roger Putnam) decided that we should step it up a notch. Rick had been having visions of Clyde Minaret for many years, so we went to the Mammoth permitting office to get a wilderness permit for Labor Day weekend! Apparently, everyone and their mother wants to go into the backcountry on this weekend (who would’ve guessed it???). A quick re-arrangement of our plans had us packing out of Bishop Creek the next day to climb another classic on our list. MT. Goode!! Here is the mountain:
Unfortunately, Robin left the packing up to us boys! Big mistake! We ended up bringing wine instead of helmets! Not a good idea on a route notorious for its loose rock! Thank goodness the Mammoth thrift store was open. For 3 dollars, we scored a construction helmet and a ski helmet (the latter a gift from a nice man who overheard our plight and had an extra in his car). A few decorations later, we were ready to go!
Unbeknownst to us, snowfields in September have a tendency to turn to ice. After crossing a bergshrund that had filled with water-ice, Roger embarked up the steep ice, John Muir ice tools (rocks) in hand. A terrified Robin rushed over to belay him from the bergshrund.
Robin and Rick followed, with a belay from Roger, thereby completing the crux of the route.
Apparently, North facing mountains in September are extremely cold. Desite wearing a ski helmet (which kept her head quite warm), after the ice crossing Robin’s feet were quite cold. What a great father Rick is!
Father and daughter loving it!
Rick following the unprotected 5.9 traverse on pitch 3. If YOU plan on doing this route, make sure you go up the face to the left of the chimney at the end of the traverse. It is MUCH easier and safer!
Roger leading the crux pitch. He linked it with the next one, allowing Robin to lead the rest of the climb in 3 pitches! GLORIOUS!
Robin looking stylish in the ski helmet!
Robin + Roger on the summit ridgeline.
Rick following up the summit ridge! Sierra GLORY!!
Just when you think the ride is over, there is a wild 5.7 chockstone tunnel through chimney!
Rick enjoying the final summit ridge with all of its exposure!
Daughter belaying father up to the summit!
Serious summit pose!
Ridiculous summit pose!
All in all, the N Buttress of Mt. Goode was an amazing adventure with a couple of amazing people. I highly recommend the route, despite the looseness of some of the rock. If there are people above you (which seems unlikely as only 5 parties had claimed an ascent of this route this summer in the summit register), you should go bouldering and make it back to whiskey creek in time for happy hour!
-Roger
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Chugach Man
climber
Anchorage / San Diego
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Sep 13, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
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Nice work! I love that route, and enjoyed the TR.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 13, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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Great Tr and pics thanx, I'll throw the route on to do list.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Sep 13, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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what a cool family!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 13, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Wow ! Nice work !!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sep 13, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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Killer TR. Stole the show with your pics, especially your summit shots.
WooHoo! Looks frickin' awesome up there.
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Chateau Rico
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 13, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Hey Roger, GREAT TR!!!
Well, I guess I better post. I'm the "Rick" in the TR. I want to thank once again those two crankin maniacs for the adventure. I wrote in the register it was my proudest mountain yet, and I've climbed a few dozen. I mean: No permit, no helmets, frozen approach, loose rock, challenging route finding, (done pretty much perfectly), NO PROBLEM! Old carcass, mine that is, not much either!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 13, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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Oh Yeah!
Great TR.
Zander
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Sep 13, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Really swell post.
What fun!
Great pics too.
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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Great TR & photos - looks like you all had an absolute blast!!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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Wow that looked like an amazing time! Grats on keeping the family climbing!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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Super!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Sep 14, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Jealousy, envy.
I have just succumbed to some of the original sins (or something like that). Great TR.
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Sep 14, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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And a toast to A-Bomb for making it happen. I think he was the first to lead ice with rocks in hand.
Cheers Rog,Robin,and Chateau Rico
Alex
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10b4me
Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
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Sep 14, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
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I've heard good things about that route.
one day perhaps
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 14, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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climbing content, me likey
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Sep 14, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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Really nice!!
I've got to do this one. Thanks for the post up.
Oh, and a partner to warm the feet... priceless...
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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very nice job! nothing like climbing with your kid
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Nice one Roger, you and Robin are gettin AFTER IT! Let's talk about a fall wall sometime at Sal's...
Ryan from the Hulk...
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Hardluck
Social climber
Just who wants to know...
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Family fun in the sun (and the shade)! Nice TR. Thanks for sharing.
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