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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 4, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Here's your chance to sound off. I don't mean the worst climbs, I'm talking about climbs whose reputation far exceeds what you get.
Here are my candidates:
1) Serenity Crack- Not saying it isn't challenging but you could add glue on footholds to match the pin holes and not diminish it's aesthetic nature.
2) The North Face of the Grand Teton- Yeah, it's a north face and you can see it from the road, but the lower two thirds aren't memorable. You would be much better off doing the West Face. It isn't a "north face," and you can't see it from the valley but the climbing is stellar.
3) Super Crack (IC)- Historic climb that you should do once, but there are other climbs on the same buttress that are more interesting and get a fraction of the ascents- try Rad Bad Duality Crack.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Double Cross, especially that it is now bolted.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Double Cross shouldn't be bolted. WTF?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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OZ in Tuolumne, one move of 10d face and then a pitch of 5.8 liebacking...
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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Who the F**k bolted double cross? That was a right of passage for me at 18........??
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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That Double Cross was so dangerous.
The two bolts make it safe!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Anything in Eldorado Canyon, or in proximity to Boulder CO.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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any volcano
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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Double cross was only dangerous to those climbers out of their element. All it needed was to be re-rated, not bolted.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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It's the star system. Everybody wants to go to the same few places and do the same few climbs. How many times have you heard some variation on this conversation as two people talk about what to climb:
"How many stars does it get?"
"Just one."
"Well maybe we should look for something better, then. Isn't there something around here that gets three stars?"
But you know, on reflection, maybe it's a good thing that these few climbs are over-rated, or given more stars than they're worth, or listed in whatever is the currently popular successor to "Fifty Classic Climbs." It means that in most areas 90% of the climbers will be lining up for a handful of popular routes while you've got the rest of the place -- including dozens or hundreds of climbs just as good or better than the popular ones -- to yourself.
D
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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"That Double Cross was so dangerous.
The two bolts make it safe! "
Hope that was sarcasm...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Shivasana
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The South Face of the Cinder cone (just north of Little Lakes on the 395).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I don't climb enough, not to have every single climb be 'rated' for value in some or another at a very high level.
The only one that is overrated is the one I get seriously injured or die on.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Thunk... zinnnnnnggggggg....
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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First bolt is about where the shadow of the kite is. Second bolt is aprox four feet above the first.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Over-rated? NOTHING at Squamish is over-rated :-D
Nothing at Squamish is in America, either - at least not in the sense that donini uses it. Squamish is in the Americas, though. I blame Waldseemuller and the writers of the constitution of the U.S.A. for this geographical imprecision.
Edit: There were no bolts in Double Cross when I did it with Joseph H in late April, except the belay/rappel bolts at the top.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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White Punks On Dope.
A good line, for sure, but folks drive out from New Jersey, France and beyond....."A dream of a lifetime" I was once told
They line up and wait to climb it, do it and split.
Lots of other good climbing on Voodoo Dome.
And If Double Cross has been bolted..... Russ needs to get his ass off the couch and fix it. WTF
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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I thought it was a joke. I cant believe it.
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Joe Stern
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Tami, emphatic agreement regarding middle's east buttress. after doing both the original and the 50 crowded variation, the only real standout pitch i recall is the featured splitter past the bolt ladder. not worth going up there and getting your rope all wet on the descent...well, okay do it once, but expect average.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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If I get the time, I may sink a few more there this afternoon maybe around 5 when it's good and warmed in the sun....
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