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Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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Going to Ritter in a week or so and wanted to get some info for taking a group of 'hikers' up the SE glacier route. Any info would be helpful...i.e. pons & ice axe are they needed? Thanks
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franky
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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When I did SE Glacier Both crampons and ice axe were definitely necessary. The route is a bit easy to mess up so be careful, I ended up going up the wrong chute from the southeast glacier (common mistake for inexperienced alpine route finders, which I was at the time). Turned into nasty icey 4th class and led up to a small saddle in the ridge to the south of the main summit. The southeast glacier was actually blue ice in patches when i did it, late summer.
If you stay on route, it is second class all the way, I guess. watch out for rubble and falling rock in the chutes above the se glacier up to the summit plateau (this is why I ended up off course, the proper chutes looked a bit rubbley and I didn't think they were right. Watch out for horrific bugs at ediza lake, maybe consider camping at nydiver lakes? they are well above treeline and may have less bugs if it is breezy (or they may be even worse if there is no breeze :)
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Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Thanks for the chiming in. Sounds like it might be too technical for my group if there is glacier travel. Is it possible to reach the Secor chute without glacier travel? Otherwise, sounds as if its too technical for my group who other than me have traveled over glacier terrain.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 27, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 27, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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You're a two bit chump with no skills who shouldn't be anywhere near that mountain by yourself......let alone with that chubby group of homeschooled pedestrians. How bout you take your group to REI for a toprope "sesh" then go back to your place and rent Cliffhanger.
We gonna do North Ridge Conness, Matthes or SD Half Dome for PM09?
Call me, Cracka.
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franky
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
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Eh, it isn't technical in any way, there aren't any crevasses, I wouldn't call it glacier travel, It is just that the snow can melt off of the southeast "glacier" and the blue ice can be a bit intimidating. I did it with not a lot of experience, and it would probably be possible to avoid any ice patches if they were there (who wants to avoid ice!!!??!?!), I think the SE Glacier is a great way to introduce people to mountaineering beyond 1st class trail walk ups. The southeast glacier itself is low enough angle that you probably wouldn't slide too far if you fell. people do the climb in tennis shoes pretty regularly, i say go for it and be willing to turn around if need be.
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kev
climber
CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Not sure if this helps or not but last year I did some LONG 5.7 ? thing up Banner and came down the chute between Banner and Ritter (in the dark). We started in the wrong ridge and prolly added 5-10 pitches to it...Anyhow the descent was nasty ice which we weren't very prepared for....All I'll say is that you should expect a long day and prepare accordingly.
Good luck and have fun!!!
kev
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