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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2009 - 01:55am PT
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So as great as the Bachar-Yerian is, it seems to have far more ascents than 'You asked for it'. Has anyone here done 'You asked for it'? How many ascents has it had? Bad ass route for sure.
I once led Tune Up and decided that was as close to the real thing as I ever wanted to get. Who's done that great route? It has some of the best and most sustained mid 10 climbing I have ever done. But those 40' runs get to you...
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apogee
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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Bump for JB
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:29am PT
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Think that Mike Waugh has done it more often than anyone else, and he fell in the wrong place once (pushed back, missed the ledge, and got pretty banged up).
Followed Drew "The Iceman" up it when we replaced the bolts. He led with a 3/8" bolt kit, thin piton, and tuning fork, and he would replace one anchor bolt, belay Karin up, fix a line for me, and I'd replace the pro bolts, then the other anchor bolt once he had a good one at the next belay. Here are a few pics:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=866820&msg=867977#msg867977
On the way down we also replaced the right hand variation first pitch (Free For All?), wonder how many ascents that has had?
Speaking of JB and the Iceman - who else has done Solitary Confinement?
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Jul 10, 2009 - 07:14am PT
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Post bump to get rid of the A-hole Onyx!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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Greg, where is Solitary Confinement?
Waugh has done 'You asked for it' 7 or 8 times I think. He cracked his skull pretty good when he whipped off the thing. He said he never should have been up there that day because it was too hot.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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Didn't know he'd cracked his skull. After that accident, didn't his little kid utter the famous-in-TM quote: "My daddy asked for it - and he got it!"
Solitary Confinement is on Fairview Dome, the next streak right of Magical Mystery Tour. Then the next 2 streaks are JB routes he did roped (both low 5.10 R/X) the year after Solitary Confinement - maybe he figured one was enough and the next two looked harder!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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I'll never forget when Waugh's son at the age of like 9 or 10 announced to me in the Grill parking lot, "My Dad asked for it...and he got it!"
*edit* Heh beat by Barnes.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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Among all the Bachar-Yerian threads, I couldn't find anywhere that took a guess at how many ascents it's had. I'd be curious as to what people's guesses might be on that.
I was afraid of it for a long time, finally got up the nerve and led it, and then realized it wasn't as bad as I had made it out to be. That process would lead me to the think that it's probably been done a lot more than we might guess.
Sorry for the thread drift, but it's somewhat related to the OP's first comment...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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The B-Y gets done quite a bit. I know Martin the crazy Chek did it at least twice one summer.
I know that Waugh had 7 or 8 of the 11 ascents of 'You asked for it' when he quit doing it. I don't know of anyone other than Drew doing it since then, although I would imagine it has been done by a few people since then.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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I think Alan Nelson and partner did You Asked For It pretty early, and then tried to do the 2nd of BY, but backed off the BY.
The tat was pretty old on the anchors when we replaced, but that's a huge water streak, so who knows how old they really were - and besides if you top out you wouldn't replace the webbing.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 10, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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Bachar told me that he was in the middle of Soloing Solitary Confinement when, in the middle of a sequence, noted that he was committed to a knob that was about to break.
I wouldn't recommend anybody follow in those footsteps
Peace
Karl
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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So has this really only seen 11 or so ascents?
Bachar and Ron Peers
Alan Nelson and Rob Oravetz
Mike Waugh w/ various partners 7 or 8 times
Drew Rollins w/ Greg Barnes and Karin Wuhrman (replaced bolts)
From what I've read, you're back in the ledge fall zone before clipping the second bolt on the first pitch, yes?
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jeff Webb and I did it - maybe sometime around 1988. Sporty!
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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That's cool. Do you remember if you can hit the ledge if you blow it going to the second bolt?
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Did it in '90 with the late Karl Mallmen after we failed on BY. Rather run out i would say, but really good climbing
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I thought you could hit the ground going for the second bolt!
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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i would agree with that !! it feels like you could deck from almost anywhere at times
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I drank a six pack after climbing that route to calm the adrenaline twitch.
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NEVERGIVEIN
Boulder climber
Sequim
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Jun 24, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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I just have to respond, John and I made the first accent. We did this run out on purpose because of all th bolting going on at the time. I'm glad it's scary, nothing is as good as fear to sport with.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Oct 14, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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This route is very good and very dangerous, more so than the BY. There is ledge fall potential for much of pitch one over hard climbing. That's followed by horrendously runout and insecure slab climbing on pitches 2 and 3 (pitch 2 in particular). Judging by the amount of dirt and moss I excavated from the hole on pitch 3, it hadn't been climbed in awhile. It's all cleaned up now, go get it. Many thanks to Drew Rollins, Greg Barnes and and Karin Wuhrman for the updated hardware. Oh, I almost forgot, 5.10 my ass.
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