Tower Peak and Watchtower (Northern Yosemite) Any info?

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Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
Any info on these two peaks on Yosemite's northern boundary? What's the rock like? Are there any technical routes?
Gene

climber
Jul 1, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
Patrick,

From Summitpost.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151844/tower-peak.html

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/230618/watchtower-peak.html
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 1, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
I've been on Tower Peak twice, both times from Tower Lake. It was many moons ago and as I recall there was a small snowfield to cross but otherwise class 3. The rock seemed pretty good and there should be some good technical rock to be had, but I know nothing about climbing activity in the area. Somebody probably has climbed there. Beautiful Area.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
long way in there
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
I'll get back to you with some info in 6 weeks. I'll be out there Aug 1-9. We're packing in with mules @ 75 lbs gear per person.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
long, long hot hike.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
pretty low angle on some of it too
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
Patrick - John Nye and I hiked in there from Leavitt Meadows in the late 80's and established nice technical routes on the NE face of Tower , III 5.10 and the West Face of Hawksbeak IV 5.10.Check out the Secor guide - every serious Sierra climber should have one! Kind of a long approach regardless of trailhead choice (12 miles). I'm assuming the " Watchtower " is the tusklike formation 1 mile north of Tower. Didn't climb on that but there is certainly potential there....

Happy Trails*
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 1, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
way to go al.

now every sport climber in america will be lining up to crowd that thing.

heh.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 1, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
sheeesh Al

spill the beans why don't ya

;)
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 1, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
dammit- you snooze you lose I guess.
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Jul 2, 2009 - 12:19am PT
Way remote. Here's a picture looking north to Tower. Looks like a rubble pile from this end. Wish I did it when I was back there.

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 02:09am PT
Gene, I had already checked out SummitPost but hardly any climbing info.

Cragnshag, have a good time.

Aldude, from the photos I have seen, it looks like there could be some good climbing. I'll see if I can get the Secor guide as the Supertopo guide and the Moynier/Fiddler guide (I use to be a housemate and climbing buddy with Claude in Cedar Ridge) do not mention anything that I can tell, though supposedly according to the SummitPost entry, M/F recommend Tower Peak.
big wall paul

Trad climber
tahoe, CA
Aug 11, 2009 - 02:47am PT
Got back yesterday from the trip with Bob Steed (cragnshag).
What a trip!
The climbs I did with Bob were a new 10 pitch 5.8 on Watchtower, a new 5 pitch 5.8 on WatchTower, and a new 5.8 on a 150' cliff on the descent from watchtower. Look for photos and topos soon.
Paul.
Banquo

Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA
Aug 12, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
Paul-

On 8/5/09 Bob and I did a 10 pitch 5.7 on the NE face to the north summit plus a hand crack pitch on the east side of the south summit.

Got a shot of you, or Bob, or somebody, on the north summit. Taken from the east side ~ 2:15 pm 8/7/09

Dan

Eastside Barbie

Social climber
Eastern Sierra, CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
Watchtower is mmmm gooood. Super clean consistent grade highcountry granite. Worth the long walk on short plastic legs.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
Wow, nice shot .. definitely curious ..
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
Went up to Tower for a fast and heavy backpacking overnight a few years ago. Long slog on a severely beat out trail (friggin' pack trains!), but a nice spot. No technical climbing, but tagged the summit before heading out.

From the Leavitt Meadow, looking south:


North(east?) side of Tower. I guess this is what folks call the Watchtower. Looked like a lot of potential:


Summit:


Hawksbeak? (from the west)

cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Aug 13, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
Amazingly enough, 8 folks summited the Watchtower formation last week, via 4 independent new routes in the 5.7-5.8 range, 8 to 10 pitches apiece (long pitches... 185'-200').

The Watchtower is a separate formation from Tower Peak and consists of three summits separated by long couloirs on the West. The South and middle summits are class 3/4 from the saddle with Tower Peak, while the North Summit is 5th class from any direction. Great climbing in a great location.

When Eastside Barbie, the Old Dork, and BigWallPaul send me their photos, I'll post up a TR along w/ some topos.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
I hate you people.

Don't take it personally. I'm just really really jealous.

What can I expect, you can see the thing from the road.

I've been trying to get someone to go with me for the past four years. I asked around, nobody knew anything about it. Then it was on summit post. That, I knew was a bad sign, but the photo helped spark some interest from my lazy ass friends.

Like I said above you snooze you lose.

It sounds like you guys did it in better style than I would have anyway. I was thinking the three day weekend style, which would have been one route if we were lucky.

Good job on picking this one. Congratulations.
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