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crackfiend
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2005 - 12:39am PT
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I have heard that one can bypass any 5.10 and using 10" gear on the pitch going to the bismark if you tie something heavy onto a rope (a hex), tossing it over the feature and then jumaring it.. any info on if this is possible or is someone just messing with me...what big gear would one need to do this???
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Aug 13, 2005 - 03:19am PT
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Well...
Its more fun if you just get up there and figure it out, isn't it? I'll tell ya this, I don't climb 5.10 and I made it...so there you go.
I don't recommend what your friend said, though, because if the big loop of rope slips off and you take that fall with all that slack out onto jumar teeth...now that wouldn't be good, would it? Yeouch.
As for gear...A #5 followed by the second largest big bro will get you close enough for the required trickery. Without the big bro, it would be much tougher.
Figure out another way...
-Kate.
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Wrathchild
climber
right behind you
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Aug 13, 2005 - 10:26am PT
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The wide is AFTER the Bismark ledge.
You don't even need a bigBro.
A tipped out #4 to a tipped out #5 camalot, high step, and you can grab the lip. Just don't forget to unclip your daisy before you throw the move.
A word to the wise on that pitch- Back clean your .5's and .75's, that is all it takes for about the first 1/3-1/2.
Throwing gear? Hell, son, this ain't Wyoming...
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Aug 13, 2005 - 10:42am PT
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hahaha, why's this all seem familiar?
Went #4 to green Bro, stood on that, could reach the lip but it was covered in ice and I couldn't manage anything in my generally atrophied and chickenshit state, so I backed down to strip off the rack and other excess bling and went back up and . . .
A large hook was involved at some point. No jugging, though. The Storm of the Century seemed to be involved. Marilyn Monroe's ghost was pushing from behind at one point.
That's all I got.
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NCCLIMBER
Big Wall climber
Hendersonville,NC
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Aug 13, 2005 - 11:08pm PT
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Had A #3 big bro and a #5 camalot and it got me close enough to hook two aiders together. I put 2 biners on the end for wieght and girth hitch the loose rock that sits on the back of the ledge and aided the aiders. With a none stylish belly flop onto the ledge.
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Aug 13, 2005 - 11:32pm PT
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Ha ha...yeah, Wrathchild may be right if you are a bit taller than me. At 5"4 I needed one more piece above the very tipped out number 5 and still did some trickery.
:)
-Kate.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Aug 14, 2005 - 08:45am PT
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When I did it we didn't have any big cams. So both of us were dredding the mandatory OW. My partner got that lead and when he was right below the OW section he slows down. I figured he was contemplating having to do a bit of grunting 1st thing in the morning or something like that. Well it turns out he was having a bit of an ethical delimna. Turns out there was a short piece of cord fixed down to the bottom of the OW and he was debating whether or not he should use it to get past that section. He did what I think most would do when finding an easy way of that particular section, he jugged it. After we got down he had some regrets over using it, but after a few beers in the meadows he forgot all about it.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 14, 2005 - 09:33am PT
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My partner led that pitch back when a #4 friend was the biggest piece, except for a bong placed end to end. He fired it like it was nothing. When I jugged it he had placed the rope behind the flake and I couldn't jug it; the rope ran deep behind the flake. I just laybacked it up to the top in my wall boots dragging my jugs. In exchange for him leading it, I had to lead the next two aid pitches, and I definitely got the bad end of the deal.
It has a good edge to grab, and I bet if it was in the C4 boulders, tourons would be climbing it.
This was before the emergence of what we call dirt. Mud had been around for a long time, though.
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Wrathchild
climber
right behind you
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Aug 14, 2005 - 09:54am PT
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Yeah. I thought it would be screwing my buddy to run the rope down the crack, so I put it over the lip. He cursed at me and in his oh so condesending manner, told me I didn't know what I was doing. Ya just can't help some people...
I think it was the weekend after they released the #5. Dirt was already dusty by then.
I am 5'10"
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