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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
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Just got back Monday night from dirtbaggin' it in JT for 8 straight days of climbing. What a fantastic trip!! I hadn't been there since one quick day in April of 2001 (when we got completely baked--in the heat sense of the word--off of everything), and before that it hadn't been since about '85.
Virtually every time I'd gone to JT in the past (which was often when living in San Diego), I'd gone with specific hard climbs in mind. I never bothered with any but a very few of the easier routes. They were "too easy," and were for taking non-climbers up. But this time it was different.
I didn't have a recent copy of the JT guide book anymore, but the downtown REI had a little book called, "The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9." Well, it was all they had, and I figured I'd better get it unless I couldn't get the newest guide before I left. It was a little embarrassing, because it sort of looks like "My Big Golden Book of Rock Climbing," complete with color pictures, detailed access and descent info, and, well...the whole "5.5 to 5.9" thing right there on the cover for all the world to see. It was a momentary challenge to my coolness, and certainly didn't betray my 34 years of climbing to date.
OK, so I'm an idiot. "Hi, I'm Mooser, and I'm an idiot." "Hi Mooser."
The more I read the book, the more I realized I hadn't seen a fraction of the Park, or a fraction of the fun cracks in said Park. My younger brother, Keith, and I decided to check these little buggers out. By the time our 8 days were done, we'd done 40+ routes--some outside the bounds and ratings of the book, but most within its pages. What we found was that there are some seriously fine cracks out there that--while not difficult--are incredibly fun, and get you in touch with the joy of movement on rock.
Keith's and my nephew--Danny--joined us for the first four days. Danny's dad, our brother, John, died a few years ago, and was someone I'd spent quite a bit of time with at JT in the past. There was something very poignant for us about climbing with his son. His dad would be (and was) proud of him as a climber, and as a terrific young man.
Another friend, Steve Clark, joined for an overnight of hanging out and a little climbing. On the last Saturday, Keith's friend Steve Belford joined us for a good long day of climbing before the shindig.
I'll post a few pics now, and add some later on.
Cheers!
Brother Keith checks out the gear I'd FedEx'd him before taking off for JT from Carlsbad:
We're at JT - things are lookin' up! (L-R: Mooser, Danny)
Mooser up on Intersection. Up off the ground after a long, rainy winter in Seattle!! Life is good!!
Keith leading out the roof on Overhang Bypass for his first time up there:
Keith TRs Danny on Granny Goose:
Keith racked up for White Lightning on Hemingway Buttress:
Keith's first time leading Double Cross. Did a great job:
Mooser sets up the belay on top of Planet X after the lead:
Keith on some 10c on Atlantis Wall (name escapes):
Mooser racks up for the lead on Diamond Dog:
Mooser leads up the Diamond Dog flake with thousands of yawning feet below:
Though our first night of camping was in an undisclosed, yet beautiful BLM location, we spent the rest of our time in Hidden Valley. Below is Mooser on the left and Danny on the right. You'll notice the fine wine in my hand, and the smile on my face. In 29 Palms, Stater Brothers grocery store had this deal where if you buy 4 bottles of Douglas Hill wine, you get each bottle for $1.99. It therefore became our favorite wine. "A delicate bouquet...absurd, yet flacid..." We affectionately named it "Dougie." Each night, Keith and I would do a slow walking circuit around HVCG with a tupperware cup of "Dougie," and called it our nightly "Dougie Walkabout."
I don't have time right now, but I'll try to post some more pics later. Just let me say this...Don't pass up the .7 - .9 cracks in JT, just because of their low ratings. There are some really fun routes out there!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Apr 29, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Cool post...
I second that last thought.. there are great lower graded cracks in JT.. I'd go so far as to say "Steller"
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 29, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Good times! I love jtree.
that route on Atlantis is 'Ceremony' I believe.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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Nice, Mooser. 8 days? - you lucky stiff!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
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Great Thread Mooser ! I am now determined to learn this crack climbin' jazz. :D Peace, Lynne
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 29, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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You were in JTree, Mari (whom you met at Wayne's) was down at Indian Creek. And meanwhile, back in Seattle, it rained.
If you post more pictres of sunny climbing I think I'll kill myself.
David
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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Back off from that ledge, Ghost. I recall recently that you got to go to Cochise during the Seattle rainy season...am I right?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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eeyonkee...I heard that more than once while I was there!
edit: that's it, bluering! Thanks.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 29, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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more pics please
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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I'll post more pics as soon as I can get to it. Thanks!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
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We're tired of waiting, we demand pictures now.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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hey there mooser... say, thanks for the really nice trip report and the very touching story, that you included about your friend, and the son, as well...
say, see how wonderf a just a little book can be?... :)
*lynne... say, learn the cracks, gal... if i climbed, i think i would like them... just to see and feel the crack of the rocks, is like being part of its artwork... a nice flow to go with ...
just like loving the carving a creek bed, into the ground... course, different kind of trails entirely, but still, either way, fun stuff, to take to... :)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Apr 29, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Neebee, want to say that in Bullwinkles Fantastic Slide Show they had a great pic of your Bro, Mark....I cried ....just cause it brought yo and joy to my heart. Wished you could have been with us Gal. Lynne
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 29, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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Nice TR!
Can't wait for more pics and stories.
Zander
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 09:40am PT
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OK, I've got a few minutes to post a few more shots. Hope you enjoy them!
Nephew Danny stoked to get on his first route - Overhang Bypass:
On top with brother Keith, after gittin' 'er done (note the stoke):
Rappin' off Intersection:
Again...note the stoke:
Our camp the first night:
Danny...Stayin' alive, stayin' alive...
Mooser...Barely alive, barely alive...
Mooser on Atlantis Wall:
Danny on Atlantis Wall:
Ditto...
Keith leading Double Cross:
Ditto...
Danny rappin' off of Double Cross:
Keith rappin' off of Dairy Queen Wall:
Mooser squeezing through Conan's Corridor at Hall of Horrors in search of Gem and Colorado Crack:
The aforementioned cracks. According to our "Big Golden Book of Climbing," they were supposed to be in the shade by this time. They weren't, and had a ways to go. It was BLAZIN' hot in the sun at this moment:
Keith leads off on White Lightning - Hemingway Buttress:
Keith raps off of Hemingway Buttress:
Mooser rappin' off of Hemingway Buttress with miniature Keith between the feet:
Note the look of satisfaction...
Keith leads off on something on the Thin Wall:
Keith TRs Diamond Dogs:
Gearing up to lead Lazy Day (a 3 ft. rattler slithered behind my heels while I belayed him):
On the route:
Keith leading Fote Hog:
Mooser re-racking after doing Just Another Roadside Attraction:
Steve Belford heads off on a route below the Upper Lower Wall:
Mooser leading Maggie's Farm (?):
Mooser finishing Butterfingers Make Me Horny:
Rapping off said aphrodisiac:
Keith raps off same:
Mooser leading...Smithereens (I think)?...
Steve Belford leading Bearded Cabbage:
Up the crack he goes...
Bullwinkle gearing up for his most excellent slideshow:
Largo reading us an excerpt about Yabo from his Stonemasters book by headlamp:
Brother Keith and some desert dude at the shindig:
Mooser and Mike Graham. In 1975, Mike Graham and Rick Accamazo saved our newbie butts on Tahquitz during a mad snowstorm and a nasty accident with one in our party. They were working on doing the FFA of Green Arch at the time. Long story, but after all these years I finally got the chance to thank them both in person for their amazing help. Two of my heroes!
And Rick:
What a great 8 days it was, and what a joy to share it with friends and family. Peace, y'all!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Apr 30, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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Bump for the second half of more grate picture viewing. :)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Almost forgot to mention that it was Snakesville that week, as well. We came across a 3 ft. rattler in HVCG that Keith almost stepped on, a 3 footer at Hall of Horrors that almost stepped on me, a 4 footer in HVCG later in the week, and something that looked like a corn snake in HVCG later. I love snakes, but I gotta tell ya, I was scanning the ground more than usual!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Apr 30, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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That's 10 feet of snakes!!! (We're there any on the plane?) Plus 8 days of climbing, factor in the mando and guitar and the yucca paper, it totals well past my fun counting abilities. Did anything wacky happen? Didn't anyones beard catch on fire or something like that?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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You are quite the mathematician, Phantom X! Just FYI, no one had enough of a beard to catch on fire, there were no snakes on the plane, the previous party left us the "yucca paper," and I did get to play mando almost every night. Incidentally, I kept accidentally calling Planet X "Phantom X." Perhaps you and your F5 should join us next time?
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Apr 30, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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Looks like you had a great time, thanks for posting up.
I haven't been to JT yet but maybe will add that on when Tomcat and I go back to RR in the fall.
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