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Stephan
Trad climber
Zephyer Cove, NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
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With this years snow-pack my Sierra Route climbing is taking a toll...Went for first Sierra route this summer, Sun Ribbon Arete car to car style on July 7th. If someone could explain to me how to post pics I have a few picks of Sun Ribbon Arete.
Approach trail is snow free as most would expect (know) and full of horse crap! I DIEgress. When will the FS require diapers for those mules & horses???? Or maybe just a guy with a shovel and can, like in parades. Yet they would like to mandate me to carry out my waste... Have you ever been handed a bag with kitty litter with your permit? It would be nice if they could hand out DEET at the trailheads. And how about nice trails with stone steps to the base and descent? Seems like they only make nice trails for pack stations.... What the F%#@ do they do with all our taxes!
Approach gully is chock full of snow from base of Dark Star up....
Descent route was deamy stable corn snow for running down.
We used a old line shorted to 100' which worked fine for all raps and speeded up the simul-climbing. Would consider even a shorter line, maybe 75'??? Seemed like we still took in a few coils. Used a light rack. 1 ea. BD purple-Blue, Alien Blue, green, yellow & red. 1 set nuts and 3 or 4 hexes. All seemed well, but for the 5.9/5.10 3" crack left of arete after tyrolean another #3 or 4 BD would have ben nice. Although with good rest positions my partner wiggled in some big hex on end. Cleaned two bail slings and biners on that pitch. Didn't see any pitons, maybe they were more left of us...Went for car to car day and had plenty of daylight left to boulder, just no stamina, story of my life....
Good climbing
Stephan
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Lg
Trad climber
NorCaL
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It's so nice to know that the base and gully around T.C. is chock full. The years before...it's been so bleak, thanks for the report! Oh yea, eat lots of garlic the night before you hit the trail, it messes up the 'skeeters. I even bring garlic powder to add to my food, as a back up. Stay AWAY from sweets and sugars- ATTRACTS. Also I heard B Complex? works too- you sweat it out and repels the buggers.
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Stephan
Trad climber
Zephyer Cove, NV
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2005 - 05:01pm PT
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Temple Crag at sun rise (Sorry for the shaky slow shutter. but no F8^& way i hell will I carry a tripod!)
pitch 1
Sun Rise along North Fork of Big Pine
Tyrolean
Grainy pics because it is video converted to still frame :(
my name is TY Ty-rolean
Palisades from Summit of Temple Crag
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Stephan
Trad climber
Zephyer Cove, NV
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2005 - 05:13pm PT
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No yodel, but I did bake a nice cake....She said, "ok, I guess"
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Claude
climber
where I'll end up
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Jul 13, 2005 - 10:55am PT
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wow, so there's still tons of snow up around the base of the palisades then eh? yowza, how would the approach be to middle pal or norman clyde?
thanks for the pics stephan.
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jmar
climber
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Jul 14, 2005 - 12:45pm PT
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Went up the Venusian Blind Tuesday, started up the 4th class (after the snow field with pre-kicked steps in soft snow) at 10 am summited at 2:30 PM. Consolidated the route into 8 full rope length pitches with a touch of simuling. Did a few variations that felt harder than 5.7, but were very high quality. Still LOTS of loose stuff, especially higher up on the route.
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| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
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