The Phoenix

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martygarrison

Trad climber

The Great North these days......

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2009 - 08:55pm PT

Much like my Tales post, any stories or pics on this classic? Was too hard for me but always a goal....

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Feb 24, 2009 - 09:25pm PT

Second ascent, May 1978. Notably, the ONLY Non-Cam ascent.

Looking up from the bottom. Notice Ray's pinned out corner. We thought it was pretty gross when we got there and saw what he had done.

Starting the crux.

I popped my shoulder right after this move.

It took us four days of work. We would usually give it one burn each. I was doing better on it than Max was so it was me who was placing the gear and moving the rope up. We had a moral point as to how far up we wanted to yo-yo the thing though.

On the third day, on my first try, I blasted past the crux, past our high point and was going for the top. I was really going for it. I was maybe 15 feet out from my last piece and was placing a #8 hex. It wasn't too good and as I moved past it I kicked it with my foot and it tipped out. I was looking a big air so I reached over to the rope my brother was hanging on, taking pictures and batmaned to the top. We took a rest day (Free climbed to Mammoth on the Salathe)
As we were rapping down on the last day Max said that if we didn't get it that day he didn't want to come back. I felt the same way. I went up, got into the crux and separated (semi-dislocated) my shoulder, a not uncommon occurrence at that time in my life.
I lowered off and Max went up. He didn't even get to his previous high point and lowered off. I rested a bit, started up and climbed it to the top. At the last move, I was reaching for the crack on the slab and missed it by an inch. My fingers skidded to the edge, I recomposed and tossed again, getting it. I pulled over onto the slab and started crying.

Placing gear on with my foot on the ramp near the top on my successful ascent.

I stabbed at the crack, missed and my fingers drug back to here. I stabbed again and did it.

It was the hardest route of my life, I had popped my shoulder earlier that day and we had spent four days on it, more than any other route at that time.

We used to pay my brother with six packs to hang and take photos of us. He was there for two days on Tales and here on the Phoenix all four days. He had my camera and Max's camera, that's why I don't have any photos of Max on the route.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Feb 24, 2009 - 09:27pm PT

Mark - you have posted some outstanding photos the last few days! Thanks and keep it up!

steelmnkey

climber

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...

Feb 24, 2009 - 09:30pm PT

Ditto on that photo thing... that's a really nice shot.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 24, 2009 - 09:42pm PT

Yup.
That's the *money* shot.
Nice story too.

martygarrison

Trad climber

The Great North these days......

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 10:20pm PT

great pics and thread mark! always a climb I dreamed about! I bouldered with max a few times at the leap. Did the second accent of mainline there with bill price and anjie. I think we ran into each other at the donnells overlook but not sure....

RDB

Trad climber

Iss WA

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:33pm PT

Mark, your and Max exploits and writing really inspired my own free climbing BITD.

You guys were awsome. The 2nd, on nuts only. That is still inspiring! Great pics and even better story, thanks!

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:40pm PT

thanks tons, Mark. Awesome piece of history here, certainly.

Russ Walling

Social climber

Upper Fupa, North Dakota

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT

Way to go Mark! These insights are GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:49pm PT

Thanks everyone. I'll tell my brother you all liked his photos.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland: what's not to love?

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:54pm PT

Thanks, MH - post of the month, and your bro nailed some great pics. Does he climb, too?

climber

Feb 24, 2009 - 10:55pm PT

Amazing photos, awesome recount of the experience. Big thanks for sharing that little slice of history.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

Otto, NC

Feb 24, 2009 - 11:26pm PT

You guys look so YOUNG!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Feb 24, 2009 - 11:29pm PT

Thanks again,

My brother climbed a bit but not anymore.

In May of 1977 I was 21 and Max was 20.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 24, 2009 - 11:34pm PT

So maybe, since you just busted out these photos and we love them so much,
Bro gets another sixpack or two, um, like royalties?

WBraun

climber

Feb 24, 2009 - 11:36pm PT

So when I had my tendinitis for a couple of months I belayed Croft on the "Phoenix". He fired it on sight first try.

I did good cleaning his few pieces on jumars ......