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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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From my SoYo experience, calling it better than Valley rock is like calling your own girlfriend hotter than any women photographed for the cover of "Vogue"
Our own farts smell better don't they?
Peace
Karl
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I call it the Hinterlands. Robbins name, and he took me there to guide with him in the early 70s.
The place is absolutely brilliant. Sweeps up more area than Tuolumne, which I think is a better comparison than the Valley. Domes to domes. At least as good, that's for sure. And far less known. Which is fun for the sake of exploring and nosing around dirt back roads and dodging logging trucks. Cowboys. Friendly Rangers. I walked into a FS work station out there asking for directions to a viewpoint to see Balloon Dome, and ended up with a guy in a green shirt and a badge driving out with me then walking a mile cuz he wanted to check that view too.
The last 15 years I've been a lot to Wamello Dome. "Fresno Dome" on the maps, but Wamello is what John Muir called it, and he was quoting the Indians. Slow steady development there. Nothing you'd call a crowd by Yosemite standards, though I've actually waited in line for a climb there a time or three. You can hike in half a mile and camp on a small knoll with a view next to the rock. Close enough for the Coleman and cooler, far enough to break contact with the road.
I've raved about the area a bit in print (lately, Shuteye) and it doesn't seem to make much difference in the number of climbers who show up.
Great place. Needs a guidebook. I doubt Mark Spencer will redo his.
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sunshinedaydream
Trad climber
the big granite bubble
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Hey there Crazy Horse...
Shoot me an email... I'll give you some local beta, and can put you in the right channels. There is a lot of information, and a lot of climbing, but its very much kept in arms of the local climbing community. For many good reasons, but we'd love to share it!
I guess my first question is what are you thinking of when you say Southern Yosemite. In the park, like Wawona, out of the park, like Fresno Dome, the Balls and other Beashore areas, or up towards Mammoth Pool?
There is much good rock to be had, no crowds, and all dog friendly.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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I don't know DMT - their salsa is a little thin - but they make a generous margarita and watching fifty yellow finches mow thistle seed by the back porch is cool.
Ditto on the sport routes - someone has been a busy beaver setting bolts on The Balls - and they have a mean streak about it too!:)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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It sounds like sport climbers are taking over certain parts of that SoYo area.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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I was there last summer and it's too big for anyone to take over... Then again if you are too lazy to get there and want to make assumptions, go ahead...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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"and all dog friendly"
if for no other reason, rock quality debates aside, a great destination.
Salsa quality? Is this another 1,000 post debate thread in the making.
F*#k you, their Salsa rocks! No it doesn't.
And you guys despise political threads......whatever
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Not dissing Dingus over the El Cid salsa - after all, the poor boy is from Tennessee or something like that - so what does he know about salsa that doesn't come in a jar.
I will defend El Cid on their salsa IF you know to ask the waitress for the "real" stuff - not the watery crud they serve to tourists and old white people from Cedar Valley.
And yes - the SOYO is dog friendly as long as you treat yer mutt for ticks beforehand.
Rattlesnake aversion training is a good idea too!
And yes - there is gud climbing at Squaw Dome and The Balls. Shuteye Ridge is sweet too - just be prepared for a epic approach - either major high clearance on yer car if you come from the top thru Central Camp- or a slog thru forested hell if you come up from the Minarets Road side.
But what the hey - I built the Ricky D Cabin in a meadow less than 30 minutes drive from ALL of these places - so I'm biased.
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Actually El Cid's quality has gone down IMHO.
Chips are good.Last time a had a plate dish the refried beans had a peculiar green tint to it. Like in the moldy color palette.
The Valley is by far better!
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Karl, are you calling my girlfriend a fart?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Like Doug, I guided there with Royal's RockCraft in the early 70s and return a few times, once with George Meyers. Not much had been climbed and it seems to me that we really hadn't figured out how to gauge new route potential—too many choices. Nevertheless, it was great fun to take clients up first ascents. I think Royal recorded them; they are probably in what ever guide is available.
I don't know the name of the area, but there was a place close to the roads that had the greatest little outcroppings about 30-40 feet high, similar to rock on the "Braille Book" or the "Hobbit Book," as I remember. Cool climbing.
Somewhere I have some pictures I'll have to dig out.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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DR wrote
"The place is absolutely brilliant. Sweeps up more area than Tuolumne, which I think is a better comparison than the Valley. Domes to domes. At least as good, that's for sure."
No way just as good as Tuolumne, unless there are some amazing places that are miles and miles from the road, which is already a factor that makes it worse.
No crescent arch, fairview regular, west crack or crying time again equal routes as far as I can tell in So Yo. It's all pretty second rate to me (except some quality beginner's routes on Fresno Dome)
Come on, spill the beans on what are some long classic so yo routes?
El Cid is always pretty busy but I can't figure why, except that it's cheap. Salsa is good??? Their idea of a salad is a pile of iceberg lettuce!
Peace
Karl
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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"I have come to the conclusion that (i am aware that this will definatly start something) the rock in SoYo is better than the valley overall."
What?
Ive climbed at "The Balls" and loved it because their was not a single other person, but the rock wasnt that great.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Be nice Karl - Oakeydoke is dying a slow death so I give them kudo's for any restaurant that stays open longer than 6 months.
As for Mexican - El Cid is about the only option left since the closure (good riddance) of Castillo's.
Now if YOU make a mean enchilada - I would be willing to throw you a fiver for lunch!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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enjoimx -
Cmon bro - The Balls have all the chicken heads a climber could want PLUS a nifty little roof problem on the third level AND you get to look at the backside of Mammoth Mountain at the same time!!
But you do have to bring your own beer and hope that you don't blow a tire on the approach road - but we're hardmen so we take it:)
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Kind of like sun setting through a bowl of thin salsa.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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"I built the Ricky D Cabin in a meadow less than 30 minutes drive from ALL of these places - so I'm biased."
Mother fu....you haven't invited me to come hang ther yet? I see how it is. I thought we was friends, bro. Damn. I'm comin', tell Dawn I'm back in town! I'll take point on the routes too!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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If you plan on coming by - hope you own a snowmobile cause the place is under 2 feet of snow right now and the Forest Service doesn't plow the roads anymore.
We bailed for the winter last month and probably won't make it back in until April.
But yeah my man - since Dawn and I finally got the Final Occupancy permit for the place in October we have been talking about a Facelift/Supertopo Alumni SoYo Climbfest.
Did I mention we have running water and 2 working toilets? Trout fishing is a 15 minute walk away and a swimming pond only 100 yards from home.
And not kidding about climbing either - you can see Shuteye Ridge from the place, Squaw Dome is 20 minutes up the road and 30 gets to The Balls.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Matt,
> I'm curious if anyone on this forum has ever climbed in the area, and if so where, and what did you think of it?
After living in California (S.F. Bay Area) for 24 years now, I made my first 2 trips to the Hinterlands / SoYo in summer 2008.
 June - Chiquito Dome, rebolted Elegant Inclinations, and toproped it when it went into the shade on the second day.
July - Shuteye Ridge - High Eagle Dome, Shangri-La. Did Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, and some bolted face climbs.
Both these areas are in the sun most or all of the day, and the elevation is not that high, so they got a bit hot. The situation was similar at Courtright Reservoir, which I visited once many years ago.
A moderate clearance vehicle is needed for Shuteye (to reach just short of the pass by High Eagle and Shangri-La), and the parade of 4-wheelers and dirt bikes on the road to the lookout was a little "different". In the springtime, I hear there are streams over the road, so you might need high clearance. This suggests the ideal season may be in the fall, when the other competing areas are also very good.
In terms of driving time from the S.F. Bay Area, the area is dominated by shorter drives to Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne, Donner Summit, and Lover's Leap. For a slightly longer drive, I can go to the Needles, so (in my view) that dominates it for 3+ day trips (if you don't mind the walk in).
If you live near Fresno, of course the drive is shorter, so it may dominate other areas.
If you like to do new routes, explore, see few people, powerbolt, and/or work on guidebooks, the area is definitely attractive.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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The beer drinking/ lounging in the greater shuteye range is superb. El Cid's sucks. 007 is a great trial off of central camp.
Couple guys plopping in bolts out there are toolboxes. Looking down into Red's Meadow is a trip.
That's all I have to say about that.
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