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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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Heading to the Lofoten Islands of northern Norway up in the arctic circle for March, and was wondering if any of you have been there and have some beta on the area. Supposedly great ice and mixed, long routes, and the rock is good granite as well. I have not been able to find any good info or links on the area, seems to be not so well explored as of yet. The Norwegian alpine club is having a meet there this mid March, so I am going to go hang out with these guys and gonna try my luck on some of their routes.
Any beta??
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 28, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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There is an English-language guidebook to Lofoten by Ed Webster, called "Climbing in the Magic Isles". Written about 1994.
March there is likely to be cold and windy, if not snowy or rainy. Though it could be nice. Lofoten is a place with lots of weather. You may get in some rock climbing, but I wouldn't count on it. More likely to be ice climbing, skiing, and mountaineering.
You may astound your Norwegian friends if you know and can pronounce the word grisevær, which means "pig weather". A handy word there.
Check the Nord Norge Klatreskole website, at http://www.nordnorskklatreskole.no/english.html
The local climbing instructors and guides. It's based in Henningsvær.
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Jan 28, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
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Hey Dave... so does that mean you won't be in patagonia when I get there next week...or...?
I was on Lofoten last year. The rock is a lot like RMNP, except it is rising right out of the ocean.
In Henningsvaer you can learn more at the climbers shop and hostel- plus there is a newer guidebook than Ed's.
I think looking on the West end of the islands would be very beneficial for you if you are looking for unclimbed long ice lines.
I plan to go back someday with a boat...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 28, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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March could be sloppy weather there, fer sure. Somewhat drier than wintertime, avg. temps
right around freezing. You'll have enough daylight though.
High season for the traditional cod fishery, too.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Very cool and thanks for posting this Thread. Sailed through many of these Island Summer Spots before I began climbing.
Let us know, Please, how the climbing was and just how much fun yo had.... : ))) Thanks ! Lynne
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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My friends Sarah (from CA) and Rasmus (from Sweden) climbed at Lofoten in July. It rained some even then. Since it's close to the Artic Circle, it's fairly dark right now, and will likely be cold and wet in March. The stuff looks fairly low angle - fun for free climbing but not much in the big and steep dept.
Another friend from Sweden has climbed there and elsewhere in Norway, like in Tromso. There are definitely bigger and steeper walls there. Here are a couple of links which may be helpful:
http://www.blixt.no/plog/index.php?op=Default&postCategoryId=1&blogId=1
"Our route, Ultima Thule, lies on the north face of Blåmannen. The team from left to right: Sampsa Jyrkynen, Adrian Pollard and Saku Korosuo."
view from the middle of the 5th pitch. I think the route is a 6-8 pitches.
http://www.patagonia.fi/ultimawinter/
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Jan 29, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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This is the guidebook you need
Lofoten Rock
by Chris Craggs and Thorbjørn Enevold
Published May 2008
(Winner of the 2008 Mountain Exposition Award at the Banff Mountain Book Festival)
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=133
"The word that comes to mind when summing up this book is “perfect.” We can’t imagine how another guidebook formula could make a complex climbing area easier to navigate or more enticing to visit."
John Harlin summing up the Banff Mountain Book Festival Judges' feelings about Lofoten Rock - November 2008 - Full review
The Lofoten Islands are located off the west coast of Norway north of the Arctic Circle - FREE PDF Map of the climbing areas. The area is covered with inspirational mountains of perfect grey granite in some dramatic scenery. As with many areas the developed climbing seems to have barely scratched the surface of available climbable rock and yet the established routes are already regarded as some of the best multi-pitch granite route on either side of the Atlantic.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Dave T "Perfect Grey Granite." Now there's a great description of a climbing area. When you get there post your TR for sure !
Peace and Joy and Fun enjoying the planets terrain. lrl
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 29, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Dude! What have you been up to down in Patagonia since your last update? You can't just come here and start asking for beta without giving us the skinny. Sheesh.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jan 31, 2009 - 07:54am PT
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Dave T, it looks cool up there. Hope you have a good time.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Yo... there must be a woman involved....ECP's
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sunshinedaydream
Trad climber
the big granite bubble
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Jan 31, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
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What about your Patagonia Report? You can't switch continents like that without at least a wrap up!
Climbing in Norway reminded me of climbing in the Cascades.. now I'm sure there's splitter granite, you just got to know where to go. I went skiing instead. Whale meat is in everything.. if you've never had it its worth a try, its interesting. Good Salmon too, and really, really nice people!
I'll be in Sweden March-April If you are seriously going that way, email me... it would be fun to meet up and climb, and do some reindeer chasing!
SSDD
(Jess)
P.S.
Happy Birthday
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Hey guys,
yep, I still down here in Patagonia. Have had quite a productive season with five first ascents, and still have a few weeks to go. I am going to write up a full trip report with some awesome pics and maybe some video. Will for sure post a link to the TR here on the 'taco when i get it written up. Don't want to tell to much about the new routes and peaks untill the TR is ready.....
DT
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Mar 18, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Here is a topo and some photos sent to me by my friend Lawry, an Aussie living in Sweden.
Hansjörg Auer on the balancy crux
Arctandria on Blamannen, Norway
Im not sure if they are the womens miuras, or they are the mens ones with ice on them...
Didier on the 6th, roof pitch from the meadow!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Mar 18, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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Sweet shots!!!
thanks for postin' up
very cool topo also
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 19, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
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"Bottom line is if people demand more climbing sh#t, they'll bump it."
bump
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