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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2005 - 01:33pm PT
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I used to really feel bad when I grabed pro, hung out, relaxed, or used for it for forward progress.
Things sure have changed. Now I consider every piece placed as a possible handhold. I feel no guilt.
I look at all the Tahquitz routes I do as mixed free/aid.
I just like to get up the routes of old, and enjoy the view.
Am I alone in this method of climbing.
How often do other old timers grab pro.
Juan
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 10, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
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pro is definately "on-route" when i'm leading.
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rico
Trad climber
sf
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Jun 10, 2005 - 03:12pm PT
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whenever I try that, the piece pops.....i take that as sign to not "french free"
hehe
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 10, 2005 - 03:40pm PT
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I try to blame it on the intrest of speed due to other parties on my tail. makes me feel better about myself at the end of the day...
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 10, 2005 - 03:50pm PT
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nothing to feel guilty about there guys, lots of climbers are in yosemite to do NOTHING BUT pull on their gear. just keep in mind that what you did was not actually free-ing the route. perhaps you were not up to the task, perhaps you were not mentally prepared for or physically in shape for the crux, and perhaps you just wanted top see the summit.
in any case, it's fine to climb in any style that suits you, so long as you are not affecting the route for anyone else. and hey, if by chance i am stuck behind you on something, no need to cause a bottleneck! either rap outta there and bail, or pull on all the gear you can, let's just get it together and keep moving up there!!! and i will thank you in advance for letting me quickly pass, when safety permits, thanks...
=)
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 11, 2005 - 01:24am PT
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Juan sounds more spanish than french to me?
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nailbomb
climber
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Jun 12, 2005 - 02:24pm PT
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fraid climbing yay!
i usually do a little two-step...
step up. sh#t, looks hard. step down. step up...aw f*#k it...YYYYYAAAAAAAARD.
i always fess up though.
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jun 12, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
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"pro is definately "on-route" when i'm leading."
But isn't it a drag when you're seconding, and the leader doesn't place enough pro to yard on?
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 12, 2005 - 03:07pm PT
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you can always batman up the rope if you're seconding and there's no pro (unless your leader is a jerk & keeps a big loop there for you and plays it out if you tried to walk the rope)
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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