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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 21, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
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Outside the snow is piling up and all is frozen.....But long ago, in an area not far away, a brave Stonemaster did battle with the Affliction upon the sunny granite......From Climbing Nov/Dec 1973. Make you wake up in a cold sweat once the jams get bad for Tobin!
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apogee
climber
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Dec 21, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
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Truly bad*ss. In a 2" swami, no less.
RIP, Tobin.
Thanks for the great post, Steve!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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What a loss. Tobin was so cool.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 21, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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That article insinuates that I did the first free on Insomnia. Not true. Jim Ericson beat us to it. We got the 2nd.
JL
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 21, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
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hey there say.... i did not know who he was, until another kind supertopo guy, shared a small bit about tobin...
thanks for the nice share...
say--i am watching a medium sized "near adult size" blizzard outside--been there all day... it is nice to get to read your post now---i will keep this memory, and think on it, whenever a blizzard comes round again...
and--i mean that kindly... i also made a necklace, and earlier had the grandkid-gals over... also missed work, and one gal is most likely mad at me--but i could not drive through that...
you see----you have given me another treasure, for to cherish today... i will now soon learn more about this rock-climbing man....
thank you so very much for sharing... i never knew there was magazine (edit: oops, ok--it see, it is AN ARTICLE on a named rock) (not a magazine)
:)
say----if anyone can, please post MORE about his man, so i can learn from you-all as well...
god bless...
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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Yeah,As good-a pitch as you can find any where.Some say the best in SoCal. (10.d)? old school 10.d
Bruce
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jlf
Trad climber
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Dec 21, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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Check out the big knob above the guy in the butt bag, beginning of the left slanting hands. I watched a guy years ago hammer this thing off, I have always wondered why this is never discussed.
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apogee
climber
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Dec 22, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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Sewellymon- I assume you mean Yaniro?
Can anybody else corroborate this? If it's true that there was little controversy about that rock alteration, it's an interesting point in time of the evolution of attitudes towards such techniques. Not trying to be judgemental, but if that were to have happened recently on the SFHD, that thread would double in size.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 22, 2008 - 01:32am PT
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sent that rig in '76, and those photos were much on my mind.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 22, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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It was articles like this that inspired and got me into climbing (the movie "Solo" also). I never personally knew Tobin. Plenty of Supertopians here that did. Sure would have liked too. Way ahead of his time. And he could really push it. Seemed he was good at everything; he was a well rounded climber.
Good attitude about life. I recall reading at one time he was getting into ministry in his own way and teaching bible study classes. The 70s were a water shed and a important time in the Jesus movement. Very good music also: Larry Norman, Mustard Seed Faith, Oden Fong, Keith Green to name a few . . .
I recall someone saying in another distant thread that someone got Tobin's diary after the tragic accident in Canada.
Sure would like to know, and if appropriate see what he wrote on his last climb.
Great article. Life was so much simpler it seemed.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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I just have to get my foot on the bump........
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Murf
climber
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Dec 29, 2008 - 11:54am PT
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I think that its interesting that it was commonly done in two pitches. Does it make it harder now that there isn't any fixed hexes?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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What, some scoundrel chopped the---------bump!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jan 27, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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My good friend AJ was asking me recently if I remembered what had happened to THE knob, as I had done it before and after. I could not remember, but he thought Tony may have been responsible for it's demise.
I hope not, what a stupid and arrogant thing to have done.
ps. It wasn't the one above Tob in the buttbag, it was the one on the traverse. It did offer a welcomed rest on that section. It isn't shown in any of these shots.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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Dan knew Tobin. Just curious. Was a biography ever done on his short but filled to the brim (in some respects) life ? Would really like to know .... lrl
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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photosequenceradness4lyfe.com
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Not very many climbing sequence shots in the mags back in those days! This one was memorable.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Klimmer, thanks for yo post. LrL
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 03:05am PT
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Excellent, love those EB's they were the best
thing going. I also had a pair of PA's well,
still have them actually. Plus the old classic
wall boots, low ankle, steel shank, vibram sole
am I getting warmer. Packed away in a box. Better
snap a photo. They were probably one of the first
wall boots designed for some free climbing with
a rand.
Insommnia, check, better try and turn in! Sorry rambling,
but I do love the old gear!
Thor
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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Leavitt and Yaniro: Lap running knob chopsters.
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