Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 19, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
|
Also a subject in the newly-revised book: Hexes. Who doesn't go with camming devices these days? I'm old school so I still carry a few Hexes (like two or three), usually for use on anchors because I know a hex in a bottleneck will never fail. But I know some trad climbers who don't carry hexes on their racks at all, just SLCDs.
And you??
JL
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
|
I have a few clients I wish a hex upon on a regular basis. Other than that I don't use them.
Prod.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
|
I never really place 'em but I do have 2 smaller ones I sling with my nuts. (that just doesn't sound right)
I use the tri-cams way more.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
|
JL
I carry mostly camalots and other cams, but I also carry
a small rack of stoppers, and keep a few hexes in my bag
just in case. I still have my original, hand-drilled (lightened)
Chouinard hexentrics. They make such cheerful music clanging
together. Much nicer than bong-bongs.
|
|
brett
climber
oregon
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
|
have not used hexes since probably 1990.
|
|
poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
|
Only when I'm going alpine to save weight or for iced up cracks where cams wont work. throw in a huge hex and hammer it in. BOMBER
|
|
rockermike
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
|
I learned trad leading with hexes and used to carry a few also - up into the early 2000s, but I found no one else I climb with would touch them. I'd end up carrying them leading or following. So I figured, what's the point. SLCDs are pretty slick these days I have to admit and are usually faster. And you don't have to think so much.
|
|
Sherri
climber
WA
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
|
In my short climbing career, I've already gone full circle with these. Started out hauling around a full set of them til I could fatten up the rack with cams, then stopped carrying them as the cams seemed to be speedy and sufficient.
After the novelty of the new cams wore off, I found myself adding a couple fave sizes of hexes back to the rack, and they sometimes get used before the cams! I like being on the hunt for a hex placement...like fitting together pieces of those big puzzles we had as kids.
The smug feeling of chunking one into just the right placement--can't get that old-school buzz with a cam.
|
|
Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
|
John,
remember picking up the third edition of "Mountaineering the Freedom of the Hills" and flipping to the climbing section?
Moac wired tubes, what you never used em you whippersnapper? I never went out and bought one, but I still appreciated seeing the illustration, cause when I went out with the old farts climbing, i had an idea about how to place em.
I got Kingsley out on the stone, maybe the question is, do you want the kid climbing with you, to be able to place some of the stuff on your rack?
Don't ask about duct tape moves.
Smiles,
Ed
ps couldn't live without a 7
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
|
Ditto Pooptube, plus they just sound so cool clipped to your gear loops when walking around the parking lot or hiking miles in to the climb...
Edit: "More cow bell please!!"...that made me laugh Fatty, 'I've got a fever...'.
|
|
poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
|
Yup Dick.
Either get pumped out spending a few minutes clearing out ice from a crack so a cam will stick. Or just throw in a hex and give it a good blow with your hammer and break all the ice out.
Planning to pack my bags I debate whether or not I wanna bring chap stick to save weight. Hexes are lighter for the same size crack they can protect.
Other than that I never use them.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
|
The last few years that I climbed regularly in City of Rocks
(1997-2000) I resurrected some of my hexes and used them quite
a lot. I put a little curve on them with a file and I always
carried the 5,6,and7.
I haven't been using them in California, though, and I can't
really say why.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
|
I still carry the #3-8 on my rack mostly to use to save the SLCD's for when I really need them. Also, I prefer the hexes when doing moderate alpine climbing as they are way lighter and more versatile and if you have to leave one behind you aren't going to go broke.
Bruce
|
|
johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
|
If I'm going to haul a rack a long way, I'll take the midrange hexes and leave that size of cams in the outfit.
|
|
TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
|
I Found one once.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
|
Ya PT, I never thought of using with ice climbing as you mention, good idea.
I still like to pull out the rack of hexes for easy trad routes for posterity. Changes things up and keeps your gear placement skills sharp.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
|
Still use em when I can, bomber pro. Love em on alpine stuff. I gave away a bunch of drilled out hexes to some Russians in like 1988. Wish I could find some of them gems again. I have some with rounded off edges...that's how much use they got.
Feliz Navidad John
Peace
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
|
Purchased and/or used:
1. Mostly by newbie trad climbers to save ducats until they can buy cams;
2. Very occasionally on backcountry epics where weight is alleged to be an issue (or more likely where you can leave them behind with less guilt/cost).
3. By really crusty old (and/or cheap) dudes(ettes) that don't climb much anymore.
Not popular with e at all (as if that matters).
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 03:05pm PT
|
If you are using hexes, you should have to buy an old, used book to learn to place them (if you can't figure it out). Old, replaced technology should use old instruction.
I say nix the hexes. Help the hold-outs join the last decade+ of the previous century, let alone the current.
|
|
KlimbIn
climber
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
|
Smaller size are always on the nut biner and always go up the route with me. A good hex placement makes me all tingly.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!