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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2002 - 02:36am PT
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this just in from Hans. congratulations, guys! :
November 14th, Steve Gerberding and Hans,(me) teamed up to climb our 100th ascent of El Capitan together. We climbed Dihedral wall in 14 hours and 6 minutes. we never used a hammer, - some due to new free climbing bolts, some due to fixed pins from the last ascent, some due to trickery by us with new-age tools. We did the 5 pitch finish off Thanksgiving ledge that many parties go around, to exit on Lurking Fear.
The climb gave Steve ascents up 51 DIFFERENT routes on El Cap and 25 different routes for Hans.
Steve first climbed El Cap in 1983, -3 days on the Nose. Hans first climbed El Cap in 1987, - 3 days on the Salathe.
In the past week-
Dean Potter FREE CLIMBED the NWR Route on Half Dome and then FREE CLIMBED the Free Rider route on El Cap , in A DAY!
Hans
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jim
Novice climber
slo
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Sep 16, 2002 - 06:48pm PT
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what about you chris? how many diff routes etc for you?
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CDD
Novice climber
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Sep 16, 2002 - 06:58pm PT
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Dean Potter FREE CLIMBED the NWR Route on Half Dome and then FREE CLIMBED the Free Rider route on El Cap , in A DAY!
This is the one that amazes me. No disrespect for the incredible achievements of SG and HF, but come on. The Dome and Stone bifecta FREE in a day! I don't think I could get to the top of both in anything short of a helicopter.
To all three of you. Keep pushing. Well done.
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Pontificrator
Novice climber
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Sep 16, 2002 - 07:13pm PT
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Different routes is what's bad-ass. Eventually, ya run out of easy ones. So what if a person does Zodiac, the Nose or LF dozens of times. Who's done the most different EC routes?
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Jay
Novice climber
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Sep 16, 2002 - 07:16pm PT
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Wow guys! Keep blazing. It provides inspiration to rest of us.
Any clues/guesses as to what the trickery tools were? Will we see it in the rag adds two years from now, or will it take a decade like the soloist, or ever?
I'm picturing Steve hanging from amalgamated (chemically activated) axle grease and Hans torching it away effectively cleaning the pitch. Or supper stick bubble gum. One may clean it with a blow from a can of spray coolant.
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Karl Baba
Novice climber
Yosemite
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Sep 16, 2002 - 10:11pm PT
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Congrats to both men! Awesome!
I can't imagine that anyone is close to Steve's 53 different routes. I mean, how many different routes are even up there?
The most impressive is that both of these codgers are getting damn old, just like me. They're shaming me away from my whole bag of "elderly" excuse. Kauk's no help either.
kudo's to Dean as well. Both Stones free in a day. Inhuman!
PEace
Karl "nutcracker without hangs or bust' Baba
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FREEboy
Novice climber
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Sep 17, 2002 - 12:46pm PT
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Who's got more skinny on Dean's day?
Who was w/ him?
He didn't do that on a self belay, did he?
Or did he...?
Makes me think of that X-games comercial where some guy on a BMX bike is spinning a 720 & the voiceover is saying something about the hitting of a fastball being the the hardest thing to do in sports... Yeah- so it must be a flip on some bike that's the hardest thing to do...
:P
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Terry
Novice climber
Spokane
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Sep 18, 2002 - 08:41pm PT
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Congrats to HS and SG. This post is a bit sappy but I had the incredible fortune of meeting both of these guys when I was on my first ascent of the Nose this May. On Day one Hans cruised up to us pausing below to go off route and free our stuck pig. Then spent of few minutes the breeze with us. Day two I shared the belay for 15 minutes at the top of the Boot while Steve and party passed us. Both guys were absolutely down to earth and incredibly gracious. I really feel honored to have met these guys and want to give them their due. They are not just great climbers but great individuals. Keep it up guys.
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mike
Novice climber
san diego
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Sep 19, 2002 - 04:43pm PT
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I feel your pain, Karl!!
Seriously, great achievements by all three. Congrats!!
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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