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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 22, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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I saw some climbers on that low angle apron up and right of the Cookie and below Tales of Power.
Anybody got any info on those routes?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:29am PT
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That would be me.
All pretty easy 1-3 pitch slab routes. The area is called the cookie sheet. It's burdened by about a 45 minute to 1 hour steep approach.
Not a liberty to give out the beta at this time but I'm sure the guys developing it will make good info available sooner than later.
peace
Karl
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:47am PT
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Isn't the Johnny Clark Memorial Route up there?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 22, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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The Cookie Sheet!
Nice.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 22, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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Eric Gable (and Linda?) has a few routes (at least one) that go up the slabs too, if I'm not mistaken. Clint Cummins may have topos. I think I remember him posting a TR of one of the repeats? Ed Hartouni probably knows the details.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 22, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
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the actual slabs have seen recent development. Eric Gable has done climbs on the huge arete feature that defines the western edge of the slabs (left as you look up). The Cookie Sheet would be a wonderful name for the large slab feature below it...
...Clint has the most up-to-date information of activity on The Cookie Sheet.
look here too: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=564266
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 22, 2008 - 03:07pm PT
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The cookie sheet is the slab on the far right of the image. It's just about as fast to approach from below as above so you can pick your poison.
I'll email one of the perps and ask if it's ok to post a topo and give up one of my secret places to take climbers looking for low stress and pump.
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 22, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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Possibly a loose route on the Cookie Sheet could be called "That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles".
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kev
climber
CA
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Nov 22, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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Slab area at the base of "Above the Cookie Cliff" is called "The Cookie Sheet." The routes were bolted by Bob (don't know his last name). From the discussions he had he intended it to be an area of easy slabs for people to learn. It is far from a secret area but there are a few debates about the routes (aren't some of those lines old approach solos? Anyhow (unless I'm wrong) Bob will probably chime in. I think there are 37 pitches to be had. Most of the stuff is pretty mellow and not runout (by TM standards). Maybe a couple of 5.10 moves but mostly more like 5.7ish slab. I think I've done 4 or 5 of them. Watch out though just because the first pitch raps on a 70 DOES NOT mean that the second will (but you can down climb). Although I think most line will go on a single, just be prepared for the ones that don't....
"Edge of Obsurdity" is however a different matter. It is a stellar line but requires a certain amount of sucking it up (as Eric puts it there are 4 pucker pitches...full value :) It's a 5.8 for solid 5.10 leaders (or at least that's my opinion). Anyhow it's another great Gable Line. It's incredible adventure that end by rapping into the tunnel blow hole and walking out to the tunnel!!!!
Have fun - time to pack and head to j-tree.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 23, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
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Just got the following email from Dan Dingle
"Hi Karl,
Its perfectly ok to spill the beans on the sheet....
The route named the Cookie Sheet was done by me and David Whitelaw. We used up the remainder of 1/4" bolts with homemade SS hangers left over from the FA of Dakshina (I found some laying around in my closet). I believe Bob Steed has now replaced all of them with new SS 3/8".
The slabby feature is named after the first climb done - the Cookie Sheet. Fun climbing on fairly easy terrain. 5.6-5.10. Runnouts range from stimulating to casual. We got the approach time down to about 1/2 hour I think, but Bob was making quicker times than that. Much thanks to Bob for clearly marking the approach."
To approach from the pullout before the cookie rockslide, just park there start walking on the destroyed road and follow the cairns up the talus. (don't knock em down!)
This is as wide a topo as I dare to post here
Peace and ENjoy
Karl
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gonz
Trad climber
yosemite
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Nov 23, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
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do you have a higher quality topo then the one you posted? its pretty hard to read and i wouldn't mind checking this place out on my weekend..
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 23, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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I'll see if I can put one on my site this week
Note: there are some good beginner routes on this crag but the traverses on the ledge system across the crag are kinda exposed with some loose rocks. It's not a place for the totally green
PEace
Karl
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
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how does it drip in the winter? dry out fast or is more of a spring and fall area?
thx much for sharing with those of us that love slab.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
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We went to do edge of absurdity last spring and ended up bailing as we could not muster the pucker. So we went and climbed several of these cookie sheet routes. The routes were well bolted and found them to be of decent quality. However they did seem to be a bit of a squeeze job.
We did our approach from above the cookie at the tunnel. Since we bailed on the route we were forced to hike back up the hill and that sucked.
The left most route was a bit wet at the time.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Nov 24, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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Notes on the Cookie Sheet:
Dan's right about the approach. It's 30 minutes or less if you follow the cairns from the M2 pullout. I can get up to the Sheet in 20 minutes if I forgo my standard Donut Nation breakfast.
Winter/Spring- about a third of the routes will be wet. If it hasn't rained in a week or more, then most routes will be dry. The Sheet is southeast facing and is great for winter climbing so long as the sun's shining. I don't recommend mid-summer (why do you think it was named the Cookie Sheet?) unless you climb in the late afternoon shade.
The lower approach from 140 is more mellow than the upper approach and is completely poison oak-free.
Only four routes (5.8 corner, darkside, slipstream, and moss o menos) can be done with just one rope (60M). Two 50M ropes will suffice for all but 2 pitches (wump world p2 and joint venture p2 need 55M rope).
Rack: 8 draws (some long). For the gear routes the rack is shown on the topo that Clint posted above.
Beginners can be toproped on darkside and slipstream from midway rap anchors 90' up. No 2nd/3rd class traverse is required at the left end of the sheet.
The cliff is a great place to hang out with a big group of friends since the climbing is moderate and there's a lot of routes. No waiting in line. We took BigWallPaul up to the Sheet for his 40th bday and proceeded to drain a Heineken mini-keg. Everybody made it back in one piece....
There are a few notable routes on the cliffs below the sheet that I will try to post a topo/TR on tonight. There is one burly OW and two steep tips cracks awaiting free ascents....
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 04:33pm PT
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In 1973, Alan Benke and I did a route near the left side of the Cookie Sheet, ending after two wandering pitches at the arch at the top of the slab. We placed one bolt (1/4" Rawl drive -- very manky if still in situ) at the top and rapped off. Alan wanted to call the route "John's First Bolt." We never decided on a name, and never reported it, in part because I was embarassed by its insignificance, and in part because I wanted to maintain an aura of mystery about a "new area" on which we were working out routes.
I'm pleased to see that others yielded to the temptation to make the trek.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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John,
There is a "3rd / easy 5th" approach to Romantic Tension and Klingon shown in the 1987 and later Meyers / Reid guidebooks, but not on the above Cookie Sheet topo (yet).
If your climb with Alan followed this line of weakness, people might have seen your bolt but thought it was part of those other routes.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 06:49pm PT
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I noticed that when the Reid/Meyers guide first showed the approach. Our "line" (more of a zig-zag looking for interesting moves) was more in the 5.7-ish range. We did it over the Washington's Birthday weekend, so the crux was a friction traverse accross a water streak in P.A.'s. The rappel was just a bit longer that 165 feet, so we probably ended where the first two routes on the left did. I remember placing a few knifeblades and horizontals, but no chocks and no bolts other than the top anchor.
At the time, I was fairly competent, so I thought it was trivial. God knows what I'd think now in my overweight state.
John
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Nov 24, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
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Hey John,
There is a rusty 1/4 incher at the headwall not too far from the start of Romantic/Klingon. It's in a place where one might rap (ie not a lead bolt). That's probably yours!
So you were there in Feb 1973... I was born in March that same year!!
Bob
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