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wildone
Social climber
the little ditch
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2005 - 03:54pm PT
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Thanks, guys. Don't need to be concerned for my safety...
Anyhow, I've only been on one "wall" but I realized it's a lot of fun and something I want to do a lot more of. One of my ropes that we used was pretty new before the wall, but after jugging, etc, was understandably more worn. I want to try and preserve this rope for my free climbing, and replace it with a static line, is 200" enough?
And my other questions about if I only had one static rope, which should I use it for, jugging or hauling, seems nooby to me too, but I asked because you guys are generally pretty helpful. I'm sure there was a time in your climbing careers when you didn't have all the answers either, and I could have just waited to ask my more experienced partner who's teaching me a lot about wall climbing, but instead decided to just ask you guys.
Anyhow, my real question, I guess, was if $.75 a foot was a good price for sterling 7/16 static line, or would I just be better off using old dynamic lines that I can rustle up, as long, of course, as there aren't any core shots or sheath damage.
Thanks again.
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LqdSlvr
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Depending on what size you want, the Beal 8mm x 60m trail line is $105 (20% off ($84) at REI if you use your discount at the anniversary sale). For a larger line, Mountain Tools has the Blue Water Big Wall 10.3mm x 60m static rope for 144. I'd probably go with either of those before I went with the $.75 a foot. Of course, I'm a noob looking to do a first wall this weekend, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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The majority of jugging you do on a wall is jugging the fixed lead line to clean the gear. Since the lead line MUST be a dynamic, you're pretty much stuck jugging a dynamic in the vast majority of circumstances.
60 meters is generally fine as a length but if you are buying by the foot, get 6 feet extras so that when the ends get ratty you can cut them off.
Peace
karl
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MikeA
climber
Farmington, Utah
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I'm pretty sure 200 inches will not be long enough. I would recommend hauling with a static line. It will be more energy efficient, and the reduced bouncing will save your sheath as well.
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wildone
Social climber
the little ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2005 - 05:28pm PT
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Mike-good job catching the typo. 200 inches wouldn't get me very far. Yeah, I'll probably get some extra.
Karl, yeah, should have thought of it a bit more, and thanks for your advice.
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Ben Wah
Social climber
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If anyone has need, I can get up to 600' lengths of any diameter static line from New England Ropes. Email me
Ben Wah
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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This brings up the ol' static vs dynamic hauling rope debate again. I've always used a static rope for some of the time honored, logical reasons -- more efficient hauling, less stretch initially and therefore less hauling distance overall (by a few feet). But I'm increasingly leaning toward using a dynamic line as my haul line. It doubles as a backup lead line; once you get going with the haul and get all the stretch out, it's just as efficient as using a static rope.
There are other pros/cons. I'd kind of like to see them discussed again. Your thoughts?
Ed
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Two advantages of a dynamic haul lines:
1. Often free. Use a just retired lead rope, or one on it's way out.
2. If you fall and somehow the lead line cuts over an edge, a dynamic haul rope has a chance of saving your life (after a 300 foot fall but that's no problem if you don't hit anything) A static rope would probably kill you.
Reasonable advantages but not deal killers for static.
Peace
Karl
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 11, 2005 - 02:09pm PT
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"60 meters is generally fine as a length but if you are buying by the foot, get 6 feet extras so that when the ends get ratty you can cut them off. "
If you buy by the foot (which I would recommend), I would go with about 65 meters for the static. Lead ropes are usually cut longer than 60 meteres and they stretch under load. When trying to do full rope length raps with a 60m lead tied to a 60m static, I have been bummed to find out that the end of the static line was 15+ feet shorter than the end of the lead line.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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