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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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Meeting a friend in Tucson in a couple weeks and we've talked about climbing this peak many times.
Does any one know of any routes besides the standard "walk up" (5.3)?
Thanks
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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
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Excellent!
Thanks a bunch
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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Southeast Arete is the classic adventure at solid 5.7 with some routefinding skills required. Most of the rest of the routes on the east face are full engagement propositions. The south face has seen quite a bit of development and is much lower angle. The road in from the east side to Riggs Ranch can be pretty rough so check TRs.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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The SE Arete is a fun outing. Did it from the west in the fall.
The Tonho-Ohodam (sp) have a really nice campground at the trailhead.
Had it all to ourselves. Make sure you pay and check in with the locals. The Tonho-Ohodam have been under pressure from Mexican smugglers and if you look like one or one of their potential customers you may be in for some extra scrutiny.
Leave the stash at home!
Long but pleasant walk to Lion Ledge. Tallest cactus forest I've seen anywhere.
We rapped the route rather than deal with finding the Forbes route for the descent.
Entertained by clouds of crows, A-10s and the tequila offerings on top.
The Tunas were ripe. Had a purple face and hands by the time we got back as well as a few spines in the fingers.
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 26, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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What a beautiful place. A funny common experience there is getting benighted one way or the other.
Johm Colby and Mike Cook and I spent a cold night on the SE Arete' after we topped out in October to find the summit covered in snow and unable to negotiate the descent while postholing. We attempted to rap the route when the rope was caught in a stout shrubbery. Then the headlamp failed.
Of course I got the outside edge of the ledge the size of what felt like a shoebox for the three of us. The chilly wind streamed up the wall into my rear most of the night. It was classic Stooges: in the same bed, rolling over and whistling at the same time. LOL! When the sun finally came up, we were out of there in like 30 minutes. The rope was accessible about 40 feet up with minimal effort.
This was all after getting stuck in the creek on the approach and getting about an 11 am start. Bring the headlamps and the ten essentials. A truly fun and memorable outing.
Have a super time there!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Sep 26, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Show respect for the mountain, be safe, and have fun.
Just saw the silhouette of Babo today...
There are many spirits there.
enjoy!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Sep 26, 2008 - 01:09am PT
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Born of water is pretty good. 10c with the 10c bit being heavily bolt-protected.
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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Bobo on a fall day from the west side. Forbes descends the left skyline, raps into the dark cleft, and thence down the large ramp system to the wooded Lion's Ledge. SE Ridge is the right skyline.
JB on the lower SE ridge
JB higher on the SE ridge
DO IT!
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Scott Wayland
climber
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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I've done the SE ridge twice. Absolute total blast. Go do it!
Scott
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 26, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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Babo is a wonderful peak. Be sure to leave a little something to I'itoi on top.
A nice side trip is Kartchner Caverns. You'll have to make a reservation for a tour, but it is very cool.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Sep 26, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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Mimi,
I'm lmao...
I'm hearing that cajun drawl just bitching away.
I'm sure you kept cooksie up all night with your whining :-)
Esteban, let's meet and do Babo with Randy before we can't walk anymore.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 26, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Somewhere about where the second photo is I reached up for a hold and it had a hidden small cactus growing on it.
Now I had spines in a finger and only the use of one hand so I pulled the spine out with my teeth. I was a bit dehydrated and with the dry mouth didn't quite get the spine spit out. It alternately was stuck in my tongue or the roof of my mouth for the rest of the climb.
I now firmly believe every plant that grows in southern Arizona has some hidden way to hurt you.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Sep 26, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Dehydration and cactus spines- you are making me homesick for some AZ backcountry climbing!
The Cheap Way to Die Guidebook listed plants in three catagories-hurt, maim or kill. Ha!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 27, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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One of the best desert peaks in the US. Watch out for the cacti on the approach. I guess you Arizona folk know all about that.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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My buddy Tim pointing out the start of the SE Arete...
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Too funny Pablo. As I recall, it was Cooksie who got the rope hung up. I'm sure that you spend your time at forced bivies humming show tunes. heh-heh! Have a great time in Vegas.
Lion's Ledge is so cool and the cave area provides a super bivy.
Yep, desert veg is quite the stuff. Jumpin' cholla is my favorite, but the miniature agave variants along the Babo approach can do a great job on the ankles.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 27, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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Ah...shin daggers. I'd forgotten about those on the hike to Babo.
Yeah, those are lots of fun.
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Ron Raimonde
Big Wall climber
Sedona,Az
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Sep 27, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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I haven't been in a while, but used to be a frequent haunt. Like everyone says SE arete is a good adventure outing. If you are looking for an epic, the East face is a place with a feel like no other. The routes are stout and serious,the rock can be worse than the Fisher towers, and much hair will be scratched off the top of your head placing gear. Ill bet the Spring Route would still check in at a solid A4. The photo is on the Spring Route, early 90's. About a half hour into this pitch, I ripped a string of tipped blades and RURPs breaking a finger as well as more than half the core strands on a brand new rope. Good fun memories! Also epic ed solo on Cradle of Stone "Bail", The East face is a proud wall, I have fond memories of the time spent there. have Fun! Ron
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