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mso4 Man
Trad climber
Western MA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 6, 2005 - 09:19am PT
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Howdy all, I was wondering if any of you could point me in the right direction to find some instructional literature that I can either download or otherwise obtain on line. I am hoping to get proficient this spring and summer and hope to get something under my belt in the Valley this fall. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. I would like stuff on the basics right on up to real world tips and techniques. I am also interested in solo belay systems. Thanks in advance. I have heard that PTPP has some stuff squirrled away on line I am just not sure where to look.
Peace
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Gunkie
climber
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You can try this, but don't go blind. You can wade through the various links to find more tidbits. Though I have adopted a few of the tips, I personnally wouldn't use all of them, YMMV. Good luck.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Chongo's Wall Climbing Book is quite a read. Now that he's no longer in the Park, though, I wonder how you can get his books.
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John F. Kerry
Social climber
Boston, MA
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For the person who's completely new to aid climbing, I'm not aware of a thorough online overview. I would suggest you read the Middendorf/Long book (see http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0934641633/104-4080063-4419917?v=glance ) for a good overview of the traditional aid methods. This book is worth the price for Long's war stories alone. My fav is the one about Burton in the cafeteria: "yeah, but I didn't have to ask anyone how to do it...".
Then, for some new ideas (that are not always applicable) see PTPP's index at http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22175 . I feel you need a bit of grounding (no pun intended) in the traditional methods plus some experience in order to sift through Pete's stuff for the gems.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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This might not meet your criterea but for folks trying to learn aid climbing, I recommend Don Reid's "The Video Guide to Aid Climing." by Green Gear, Los Angeles, Ca. Phone number on the package is 323-222-6401. Somebody probably has it online too.
Covers most everything visually including penjis. Some of us, including me, use techniques that got left out but what the hey.
Peace
karl
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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I agree with Karl. The video won't be a substitute for actually standing in aiders on real rock but it seemed like a pretty comprehensive overview of the basics.
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mso4 Man
Trad climber
Western MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2005 - 11:16am PT
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Thanks for the info. I will check out the links and probably get the book. Karl I told you I was going to get my lazy ass in gear so that I can finally watch you hike up to half dome. Now it's time to get to work. Thanks again all and have a great season.
Peace
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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They sure got some funny-lookin' dude to do those penjis in the video, eh? I didn't think it was the greatest video, actually.....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Despite that dorky "Peaty" guy in the video, they are about the best compromise possible. Wouldn't want everybody laying siege to the South Face of the Column with their portaledge flagged soloing with far end haulers.
As you you drug boy, I feel safe for now. Was looking at Half Dome yesterday and their was piles of snow at the base.
Peace
karl
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